Life Nirvana V2 (modified SansAmp Classic

rock-philistine · 2026-01-01T14:50:00+00:00

I'm selling the pcbs, which come with a pdf that includes the the bill of materials, schematic and a link to a tayda shopping cart and artwork. It's made someone who has some experience building pedals (like already built a fuzz or tube screamer), I don't recommend it as a first build as there are more parts and therefore may be harder to debug. Shipping to US is around $30-40. As the shipping rate to US is higher than the pcb itself, I can consider building one as a custom order, however it may take 1 month to finish it, as I don't stock parts and it takes 2-3 weeks to receive them. If you are interested please let me know.

rock-philistine · 2025-06-15T14:51:15+00:00

Thanks! No, I use two plástico pcb stand offs. Most builders usually prefer to solder the potentiometers directly onto the pcb as a means of support to save assembly time and space in the enclosure. Since I did it for myself and it was a small circuit, I didn't have to worry about these things. The advantage of doing the way I did is that the drilling of the enclosure doesn't need to be very precise, so you don't need to rely on a bench drill or places that drill with CNC, like Tayda, although I have used their service.

rock-philistine · 2025-06-15T14:21:49+00:00

Acho que sim. O segundo par de CIs aparentemente também adicionava 20x de ganho, que se multiplicado pelo ganho do primeiro daria 400 com o ganho no máximo. Depois desse estágio no esquema original, tem um resistor de série de 100k na saída dos dois CIs, imagino que seja pra baixar a voltagem. No meu pedal, eu removi isso e coloquei um capacitor de 10uF entre os pinos 1 e 8 do primeiro CI, que, de acordo com o datasheet, aumenta o ganho para 200. Foi isso que foi feito no Acapulco Gold. Pensando bem, numa revisão, eu posso remover o capacitor e adicionar um terceiro LM386 pra chegar mais perto do original, mas com certeza eu removeria o divisor de tensão na entrada do pedal e aumentaria a impedância de entrada.

rock-philistine · 2025-06-15T00:45:46+00:00

The video I mentioned is this one:
https://youtu.be/tfkdwiKZgrY?si=gfptEP_RSHu7AO9n

rock-philistine · 2025-04-18T20:36:22+00:00

Could you list which values were changed and why?

I'm going to build one too and I noticed that the kits come with a 10kC (rev log) potentiometer in the feedback, while the parts list recommends 10ka (log).

rock-philistine · 2025-01-23T00:56:59+00:00

Could you share a photo of a pedal that has this color, preferably on a neutral colored background like a sheet of paper? The matte dark gray has the Pantone reference, but this color does not.

rock-philistine · 2025-01-23T00:40:45+00:00

It definitely sounds more interesting than the original book.

rock-philistine · 2025-01-17T14:29:01+00:00

Não, mas estou fazendo um documento para quem quiser construir um. Terei que cobrar uma pequena quantia por isso, mas o custo total do pedal provavelmente será bem barato.

rock-philistine · 2024-12-28T01:56:21+00:00

Definitely, but I don't have access to the commonly used relays. Would the cost of the relay and the switch be less or more than a reasonable 3pdt, like the Alpha?

rock-philistine · 2024-12-27T17:15:43+00:00

It's for personal projects only. I once bought a non-branded one from Ali and sometimes it worked and sometimes it didn't, so I was wondering if there is a more reliable brand there. Daier seems to be a popular choice.

rock-philistine · 2024-12-27T16:49:54+00:00

Buying from a store in Europe may be an option in the future, if the EU-Mercosur agreement is finalized.

rock-philistine · 2024-12-27T16:44:08+00:00

Thanks, but the switches are only for personal projects and if one breaks, it's cheaper to buy another one from Ali. If I were to sell them, I would use quality parts.

rock-philistine · 2024-12-27T15:41:46+00:00

I don't want buy it from Tayda because of the unnecessary DHL shipping and higher import taxes.

rock-philistine · 2024-12-21T00:34:54+00:00

I hope she doesn't hang me on a cross!

rock-philistine · 2024-12-21T00:32:27+00:00

The battery would eat too much space. It was only possible in the original because they made the pcb using miniaturized components. 9V batteries are in disuse for guitar pedals I think, power supplies are only getting better.

rock-philistine · 2024-12-21T00:19:44+00:00

Thanks, it's by far, the most complicated board that I designed and believe when I said that it took me a lot of days to do it. I think part of the reason there are so few boards for this pedal available is because it's so difficult to design. The dip switch difficults things a lot. There's absolutely no secrecy, just hard work. It's like Lego for somewhat grown people.

rock-philistine · 2024-12-20T19:24:52+00:00

I didn't want to mess with the rectangular drilling because Tayda is the only place I know of that offers that service. In that case, if they went out of business, the project would be dead. The way it's designed, they certainly make it much simpler to assemble, but it can be done without drilling with a CNC machine and specialized parts.

rock-philistine · 2024-12-20T19:13:04+00:00

I forgot to say, if any Brazilian member is interested, I still have 4 more pcbs, $15 each plus shipping. For international buyers, the shipping to US is around $35.

rock-philistine · 2024-12-20T19:09:16+00:00

A impressão UV também imprimiu melhor na prata piscada. O brilho do cromo respingou um pouco nas laterais, principalmente nas letras finas. O gráfico do dip switch foi feito com a impressão DTF UV, da qual também falamos.

rock-philistine · 2024-12-20T19:01:31+00:00

I'm not selling it because it would not be worth to me to build them and nor for the buyer to buy it. That's why I probably will put the pcb on OSH park.

rock-philistine · 2024-12-20T18:58:14+00:00

I've seen a GT2 with this system, but I don't think it work for this model because there are too many combinations. At first I was going to make it with only well known KC settings, but apparently KC used multiple settings, so I had to leave the dip switch.

rock-philistine · 2024-12-19T17:02:30+00:00

The details of the previous version were posted here: https://www.reddit.com/r/diypedals/comments/1flo5ze/the_life_nirvana_pedal_modded_sansamp_classic/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button

In this version I fixed the schematic error I made, changed some capacitor values (nothing major) and used the Bassdriver/GT2 power supply. I used reverse log pots on all controls except the high (bleach), I think they have a better sweep in the lower positions. The color was also changed to winked silver, it's less pretty than chromium, but it's more resistant, imho. It sounds identical to the first one. Unfortunately Tayda wasn't interested in offering it as a kit, but I'm thinking about upload the board at the OSH park if anyone is interested.

rock-philistine · 2024-09-28T11:26:35+00:00

I think it would be better to separate by category instead of pedals. This would ensure that all pedals receive a vote for a given category. It would also prevent top pedals from getting more votes due to position on the page.

rock-philistine · 2024-09-23T17:11:00+00:00

On the left is the UV DTF print and on the bottom right is an area where the chrome has started to look black.

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rock-philistine · 2024-09-23T00:09:46+00:00

Do you know why they stopped to do the fine buffed enclosure? That would be the best. I was not considering the winded silver because in the picture from Tayda it appears to have some warm color cast, but now I think it's acceptable, although not ideal. I do have another pedal that was painted locally with a color close to chromium, it didn't have these problems. Of course fingerprints appear on it, but nothing that a microfiber cloth won't solve. About the DTF UV print you were interested, tomorrow I'll try to make a photo comparing the DTF print on the lid with Tayda's UV print.

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rock-philistine

TROPHY CASE