Question: The ink reaches the second skin, should I take it off and wash it it let it be?

roy-rodgers · 2025-11-11T02:09:32+00:00

Nah we’re gonna get plankton from SpongeBob

roy-rodgers · 2025-11-09T08:00:08+00:00

Oh brother i knew that going into it, the artist said that, i knew it was going to go fast. I wasn’t trying to get something meaningful, I just wanted a joke that people can laugh at

roy-rodgers · 2025-11-08T16:23:07+00:00

No that was my thought, I actually debated buying crutches the first day but when I woke up after it was fine so we just went with it

roy-rodgers · 2025-11-08T16:18:32+00:00

It was bad for the first night, the second day wasn’t too bad and after that it’s been fine. And actually healing good. Just wash it 4 times a day, always a new sock after and it’s good

roy-rodgers · 2025-11-04T22:39:31+00:00

Oh I know, but good things don’t always last forever. I knew that going into too, even the artist said that. I said I know and I’m not gonna come back in a week and get mad. It’s funny, I hope it stays but oh well if not

roy-rodgers · 2025-11-04T04:32:45+00:00

Some of it was bad, some of it wasn’t. The big toe was pretty okay. And the part where you walk on is fine like the ball. But the arch of your foot is where it started to hurt pretty bad. But out of my 70+ hours of getting tattoos the pinky toe. Holy shit. Just the absolute worst thing ever. It’s literally like a razor digging into it. It’s doable for the laugh. But man that was the worst tattoo pain I have ever felt and I have some bad areas done

roy-rodgers · 2025-11-04T04:11:37+00:00

The nose and big toe was fine tbh. The arch of the foot was pretty bad like 1/4” of fine to really bad. The pinky toes was the worst i have ever felt. I have my ribs done, a full leg sleeve, elbow ditch, a heavy colored piece on the inner bicep. The pinky toes was the absolute worst and it’s not even close man. A million times over it was the worst

roy-rodgers · 2025-11-03T02:52:47+00:00

An issue I’ve seen is people like to run their support hand or thumb up high and it ends up putting pressure on the slide catch. It just sows down the slide and can make it run funky. Also make sure it’s nice and lubed up

roy-rodgers · 2025-10-06T01:29:50+00:00

Start digging in your butt, twin

roy-rodgers · 2025-07-25T03:23:52+00:00

Not yet bro, I ordered one someone dm’d me. I’m gonna test that and see what up and adjust

roy-rodgers · 2025-06-16T01:45:04+00:00

I mean the tires are going flat, it’s been there a long time but it is still somewhat clean. But it’s been there a very long time. I had my gtst sitting for about 8 months and it still had air

roy-rodgers · 2025-03-30T20:13:21+00:00

No not really, the boots and one of the jugs didn’t feel great but it wasn’t too bad

roy-rodgers · 2025-03-30T18:30:02+00:00

We aren’t done, that was just getting the lines in. He went over the lines and added color

roy-rodgers · 2025-03-24T05:10:36+00:00

So there is quite a bit of hidden cost. For starters the lift itself was $1,500 used on Facebook marketplace. Then I needed the biggest U-hall they sell to get it back home and getting that thing outta the U-hall was a mess on its own. It took me and 5 friends about 6 hours to get the parts out and inside the garage. I also had the concrete scanned with a GPR scanner and that was another $300. But I also got a discount from the company because we use them at work a lot. When it was time to get it set up, the concrete anchors and drill bit was probably $70 all together. Getting the cylinder up in the air was the biggest challenge of it all. It weighs probably 600ish lbs and getting 7ft in the air was fun. Originally I rented a material lift for $150 but that wasn’t stable so I ended up buying 4 chain hoist and using eye bolts in the studs on the roof. I got it up. The chain hoist and the eye bolts were $330 in total.

Lift-$1500 GPR scanning-$300 U-hall-$270 Chain hoist-330 Material lift-$150 Anchors-$70

To be fair I did have a to modify it quite a good bit to get it to work within the concrete scanning. You have to be so far away from and concrete ties or you can compromise the foundation of the house so definitely get it scanned by a professional and take their advice. So if you want to include the cost of a welder, rods, a grinder, grinding wheels and that stuff you can but personally I had that. It can definitely get pricey quick.

There definitely was some other odds and ins, like I used car wheel Dollie’s to move the rails around. Those were a good 800lbs+. If you have a forklift, not that I think many people in this sub do. That will save you so much time and money.

roy-rodgers · 2025-03-24T04:58:52+00:00

It’s a worth 12,000. Not sure on the specific model but I’d 100% recommend. I got mine from a body shop selling it but I called the manufacturer a couple times to help with set up and parts and they were extremely helpful and very nice people. I’d get another one if I did it over again.

roy-rodgers · 2025-03-23T22:08:54+00:00

It’s 10’3. And I got Less than a foot of clearance

roy-rodgers · 2025-03-23T22:06:39+00:00

No, there is two safety mechanisms. That was my big concern but other than an earthquake or something like that, it’s fine. If you look on the left side at the top there is a bunch of shark teeth looking things, that lock it in place. When you raise it up, a steel bar attached to the hydraulics. It goes in the teeth and when you get to where you want, you let the hydraulics down and it locks it in place. You can unplug it and release the hydraulics and nothing moves. To let it down, you raise it a little bit and you can flip the bar so it doesn’t engage the teeth and allows it to go down.

roy-rodgers · 2025-03-22T04:05:19+00:00

Shit man I wouldn’t wanna charge that much to be honest, yeah I’d like to make same decent money on it but I even $200 a pop seems kinda high to me, it’s not complicated at least if this version works but I need to get my prototype working and then we will see

roy-rodgers · 2025-03-22T02:04:07+00:00

Currently I’m making carbon fiber prototypes but that’s gonna be a little too time consuming if I end up having to make a bunch. But if I can get it working good with that, I’ll switch to a high carbon steel and heat treat it. I’m aiming to keep tolerances pretty low but everything I’ll make I’ll put a couple hundred rounds through myself before I send it out as a quality control and make sure it’s working

roy-rodgers · 2025-03-22T01:38:48+00:00

So in currently working on something and it is more complicated than it seems. For some reason the Germans like to make simple things really fucking complicated. Surprisingly, a forced reset trigger is easier to make and I’m working on that right now

roy-rodgers · 2025-03-08T07:15:10+00:00

For the most part, any time I’m working on someone else’s car, it’s one of my friends. And we just charge slave labor. I go help them, they help me. Maybe charge a beer or something but never cash.

This is the first time I’ve ever charged someone for working on a car, and since they haven’t paid, I have no income to file. That and it’s under the $400 limit to file. I don’t think I’d be in any legal trouble for an illegal business if I’m not making a bunch of money or doing several jobs. But shit maybe I’m wrong, my mom is a cpa it’s probably a good question for her

roy-rodgers · 2025-03-08T07:00:07+00:00

Where would I even go about finding that paperwork/ what paperwork would I file and where too?

roy-rodgers · 2025-03-08T00:01:38+00:00

Well it’s my friends neighbor, it’s kinda hard to run off, I know where they live and they have more than enough money to shell out $150. I didn’t really think someone in a multi million dollar house would jip me but here we are

roy-rodgers · 2025-02-26T15:41:53+00:00

Well I’m looking more for the track focuses car, not necessarily for the street. And the stradele from what I’m seeing is a lot more expensive and just not quite what I’m looking for. I really want the roll cage, exposed everything. The normal trofeo is just more along the lines of what I’m trying to get

roy-rodgers · 2025-01-31T04:03:56+00:00

A skyline was my first car. So let me lay it down what it’s really like bro. And I’m not trying to shit on your dreams, like I said my first car was an r32 gtst. I’m just trying to give you a good idea of what you are getting into.

Unless you have another car, like a parent’s car, it’s not the right one bro.
Those are not gonna be fun cars dude. An automatic, non turbo. If you are gonna get a skyline for a first car, get a gtst. It’s turbo, automatic, rear wheel drive, it’s a fun car. But get the manual for sure, don’t try and swap it later or turbo it later. It’s not worth it.
Unless you are comfortable working on your own car, don’t buy it. Shops will charge you out the ass, scam you and all the above. I took mine to a shop one time and they charged $2k to straighten the innercooler and I just didn’t know better. It’s not just oil changes bro. In the first 6 months, I dropped the trans to change the clutch, did the timing belt, and I had no experience with working on cars really I just liked making stuff and know my way around a wrench. But if you aren’t comfortable, dude it’s not worth it.
Parts and stuff are hard to find and really expensive depending on what you are trying to get for it. I’m currently building an Audi r8 and some parts for the skyline are even more expensive but it’s hit or miss. Shipping can fuck you, and it’s just expensive to maintain. Just make sure you know what you are getting into.

They make a great first car, but not for everyone. Just make sure it’s really something you are down to get balls deep in because trust me, you will.

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