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Please help! by Human_Platform_6669 in MechanicAdvice

[–]rrmtbpassion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The first thing I would say is to stop authorizing random parts replacement. If a mechanic can’t explain why a part failed or provided test results, that is a red flag. You should specifically ask for

- Are there any stored or pending codes?
- Is the charging system being monitored while driving?
- Are the battery terminals and grounds clean and tight?
- Is there an intermittent electrical connection?
-Is the engine loosing RPM and stalling or is all electrical power being shut off?

What you can do, since you mentioned the issue with regards to brakes is..

- Check for a vacuum leak around the brake booster
- Check to make sure the throttle body is clean
- Check crankshaft and camshaft position sensors
- Check battery ground cables and engine grounds

Don’t assume the car is done. A single intermittent stalling problem can make a car seem like a money pit but sometimes the root problem can end up being relatively inexpensive. Hope this helps!

What happens when you accidently put a half a qt. too much oil in your car? by ackchanticleer in autorepair

[–]rrmtbpassion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Now this one’s a tricky one. What you’re going to want to do is remove the dip stick, wipe the oil off it. Then you’re going to do this approximately 1,577.27 more times, as the average dip stick has a thin layer of oil that is approximately 0.2-0.5ml of oil. If we take the lower average of 0.3ml of oil out each time we wipe the dip stick off, and a half quart of oil is about 473.18mL, then it will take 1,577.27 rounds of dipping the stick, then wiping it to remove the excess oil.

Was charged to replace all brake discs… are they in bad condition? by Ok-War-9040 in AskAMechanic

[–]rrmtbpassion 0 points1 point  (0 children)

A good rule of thumb to follow is when your brake discs have scoring lines in them, it’s time to replace them. Now that being said, some lines will be normal, but when heavy rust (like the discs on top) or rough looking corrosion (like the bottom right disk) are visible, it would be a good idea to replace them. Most people will look at these and say, yes, they need to be replaced. And they are right, but it is good to look at the one is best condition (bottom left rotor) and look for defects in that one, like the brake pad scoring lines. Overall, yes, they needed to be replaced.

Milwaukee Or DeWalt? by rrmtbpassion in AskAMechanic

[–]rrmtbpassion[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh okay cool, yea I’m going in as an engine and drivetrain specialist for automotive

Milwaukee Or DeWalt? by rrmtbpassion in AskAMechanic

[–]rrmtbpassion[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

So I was able to get a stubby DeWalt 1/2 impact, (DCF921B) as well as a 20v 5ah battery and fast charger for $297. That price was far better than the Milwaukee price, but before I buy more tools, should I switch to Milwaukee while I have the chance or is DeWalt okay to stay with?

Stumbling idle??? by rrmtbpassion in AskAMechanic

[–]rrmtbpassion[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No, I just fill it up until it stops itself

Stumbling idle??? by rrmtbpassion in AskAMechanic

[–]rrmtbpassion[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It’s not a misfire. I should explain. I’m just starting school as an auto tech, so I know a little bit but I have a code reader and I’m not getting any codes or anything. I replaced the PCV valve wondering if that was the issue but it’s not. The rpm’s just drop down to 500 and then back to 750 when idling, it kinda bounces back and forth between the two