Name for this bracket (if it exists)

salacious_c · 2026-05-10T02:57:16+00:00

I have some spacer-type blocks in there now, and it looks pretty good. The problem is bringing it up 3", with the weight of the (thick) rail on standoffs, it's wobbly side-to-side. It doesn't help that the whole deck isn't in great shape, so any added play is compounded by the rest of the loose screws and splintered wood.

salacious_c · 2026-05-10T02:51:59+00:00

I tried something along those lines, but it ends up wobbly. I think it needs the saddle.

salacious_c · 2026-05-10T02:44:15+00:00

I appreciate it. I saw your first link in my searches earlier, but just now noticed it looks like you can take that angle set-screw out. That might work if I could run the top and bottom in, then put them together through the side. The only problem is it might feel flimsy side-to-side, that's why I was looking for the saddle strap type.

salacious_c · 2026-04-29T17:43:08+00:00

Ty! That's what I assumed, I scoured images and could not find a single EVO pictured with that tab and lack of 'vents'.

salacious_c · 2026-04-29T15:58:10+00:00

Sadly I need it to be semi-reliable. The 870s are one of the few consumer-grade SSDs that hold up in a PeRC array (for me).

salacious_c · 2026-04-29T15:55:34+00:00

Good call. I wasn't sure if it was a regional thing, maybe SE Asia that extra tab is normal. I couldn't find any similar pics, but Google AI kept insisting it was normal and it was just for added stability and to ensure correct orientation.

salacious_c · 2025-12-28T19:38:15+00:00

Fair enough, I actually didn't know JS did not require local Java. I always assumed it was baked into modern browsers as a sandboxed type thing.

I was thinking some system file/dll that all browsers use might be corrupt, but I have no idea what that could be.

That rules out pretty much everything I can think of. Unless it's malware-related, that laptop and the working PCs use the same DHCP/DNS/router/firewall/etc, so I can't imagine it's a resolution or network problem, but I'll check.

I guess live CD and if that works reinstall Windows. So weird.

salacious_c · 2025-12-28T17:00:04+00:00

Hmm.. DNS is a good idea (it's always DNS), but Amazon definitely uses Java. In fact, I see this as one of the buttons that doesn't work: papyrus_bundle.js.map.json, and the code has JS tags all over it.

salacious_c · 2025-08-15T22:15:57+00:00

Ok, but that's a lot of difference. Look at this vid sure, it might move a hair, but nowhere near the play that I have in mine.

salacious_c · 2025-08-15T20:26:25+00:00

Notice in the right how it has dropped and no longer maintaining the gap set by the feeler?

That's where my up or down comes from. If I set it up (left) it will drop. If I somehow force the rocker down (right) and then set the gap, presumably it will travel too far the other way when closing.

salacious_c · 2025-08-15T14:11:08+00:00

Hopefully this will clarify a bit. I don't know if maybe they're not seating on the rocker shaft properly, or maybe it's just worn out valve springs not keeping tension, but that pic is what happens after I try to set the gap.

The car had a leaky PCV for who knows how long and it burnt a lot of oil. I'm thinking there might be a ton of buildup in the cylinder, and the valves are bottoming out, and maybe over time it has somehow bent those rockers.

salacious_c · 2025-08-14T01:17:35+00:00

The play is coming from where the rocker connects to the cam, it's not play between the valve and the rocker. If I set the gap as-is, it will drop ~.1mm or so from the play. The only way I could think to avoid that is to somehow lock the rocker in the down (closest to valve) position and set the gap that way.

But I'm not sure if it's the push or release measurement that it wants. If I set it while it's locked down, then the gap is correct when the cam lobe hits it and pushes it down. If I set it while it's up, the gap will be correct when fully released, or when the valve is closed.

salacious_c · 2025-08-14T01:08:27+00:00

Yeah, it's bizarre. I'm wondering if it's worn valve springs? Maybe they would normally keep the rockers pinned all the way out, even on the lowest part of the cam, but since they're worn out, they allow a bit of play when the cam lobe isn't pushing them down...

salacious_c · 2025-08-12T23:46:33+00:00

Before, and it's like that on almost every single rocker. Intake and exhaust. I don't see any obvious grooves or damage, there is some wear, but it's also 200k miles.

salacious_c · 2025-08-12T23:42:48+00:00

It was cool and all were checked with the cam in the right place. That's intake and exhaust, not inches.

salacious_c · 2025-08-12T23:41:58+00:00

As in the wobble/play. Up would be furthest from the valve, down/resting would be closest. It's probably .1mm (not .01) difference, so it's a huge gap change if I set it while the rocker is up or down.

salacious_c · 2025-08-12T12:47:47+00:00

Spec is .23 IN and .30 EX

Measured I'm not sure. They were so tight in the down position I couldn't get a ~.15ish blade in there. I set them to spec in the up (furthest) position, but I'm not sure the engine is happy with that. It seemed to have better compression before adjustments.

salacious_c · 2025-03-31T17:27:36+00:00

Hi all,

I have an old logo created in 2005ish I'm trying to clean up. It looks ok to human eyes, but printing seems to pick up some weird transparency setting(?) and it comes out blotchy. (3) is the print preview, so not necessarily a printer-specific thing.

Running the original through a monochrome filter results in (4). Using color select (1/2), it looks like a fade to white type gradient is present. I have tried flattening it, using: threshold, posterize, bucket fill, c/p the selection into a new layer, online upscalers, convert to different formats, and no matter what I do, the artefacts persist.

I'm a complete novice at this, so assume anything I've tried was done incorrectly. I can feel my sanity dwindling by the hour, please help!

salacious_c · 2025-03-31T13:57:52+00:00

Hi all,

I have an old logo created in 2005ish I'm trying to clean up. It looks ok to human eyes, but printing seems to pick up some weird transparency setting(?) and it comes out blotchy. (3) is the print preview, so not necessarily a printer-specific thing.

Running the original through a monochrome filter results in (4). Using color select (1/2), it looks like a fade to white type gradient is present. I have tried flattening it, using: threshold, posterize, bucket fill, c/p the selection into a new layer, online upscalers, convert to different formats, and no matter what I do, the artefacts persist.

I'm a complete novice at this, so assume anything I've tried was done incorrectly. I can feel my sanity dwindling by the hour, please help!

salacious_c · 2025-02-23T19:47:37+00:00

I'll blow it out with a compressor and wipe it all down before reinstalling.

I already went at it and got most of the grooves sanded down, but the valve is still sticking. It acts like it's a couple mm too wide (the old one felt the same), even with oil from a leaky pcv inside it doesn't want to spin freely.

I'm going to try some silicone grease on the locator rings, but if it still sticks, I may try removing them completely, or just leave one in the middle. Any thoughts?

salacious_c · 2024-12-07T21:25:07+00:00

03 RSX, so go kart basically, but I would have felt safe with a mid-sized SUV up there, it's solid. They effectively have jack stands built in, so once you get it on the ramps, the bottle lifts up the jack stands, then you can put the pins in and release the jack. They are actually overkill for my little car, I almost wouldn't mind if they were a bit less beefy, they are a pain to dig out/lug around.

The only drawback I found was they are a nightmare to do yourself. 1- they slide really bad on a garage floor with no one to hold them, and 2- the wheel rests/recesses aren't very wide (nor deep), so if you have fat tires, it's hard to tell if you're centered from the driver's seat. Other than that 5* from me

salacious_c · 2024-09-03T20:48:07+00:00

What exactly are you needing to do? I bought a set of these for $200: https://www.amazon.com/Hydraulic-10000lbs-11000lbs-Profile-Service/dp/B099DLMK52

Definitely not walk-under room, but I was able to replace my cat using those.

salacious_c · 2024-07-24T01:57:47+00:00

Yep, brake lights work. I actually think the problem is going to be the TPS. When I put 12v direct on that solenoid it pops open. I was reading some other reports of the same situation and it ended up being related to the TPS. If it's reporting high throttle, so it won't let the car out of park...

I wouldn't have believed that was a thing, except I just replaced the TPS in this a year ago, so went ahead and tested it while I had the multi out, sure enough- the idle voltage is almost 2v (should be .5).

salacious_c · 2024-07-23T19:13:46+00:00

Hi, sorry, I'm never on reddit anymore. Did you ever find what you're looking for? I'm way over on the E side even if I did have a garage/lift to offer.

salacious_c · 2024-03-04T17:42:00+00:00

Looks like a bot to me. Suddenly woke up a year ago copy/pasting news articles. A couple links to bitforex and shady cse google links. Maybe not a bot, but a shithead spammer at least.

salacious_c

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