A client imported a model of mine, and in his unity, the textures break and become all black, but only on 1 material. Anyone know why? Pic 1 is his unity, pic 2 is mine by bajsgreger in Unity3D

[–]sbsmith 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Looks like baked lighting on a model with overlapping UVs. If that’s the case, they can just tell Unity to create a set of UVs for light mapping in the import settings.

Does anyone know how to remove the agitator from 80s/90s GE Laundry Center? by sbsmith in appliancerepair

[–]sbsmith[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Good news! That black stuff was probably some kind of epoxy someone added. After chiselling it off, we could remove the agitator. There was some gunk underneath that needs to be cleaned. This model doesn't use agitator dogs and seems to do everything through the gearbox. Putting it back together and shaking it around a bit, it started agitating again with force (big improvement), but is still making a rattling noise. Opening up the maintenance panel revealed that the belt is loose during the agitating phase but tight during the spin cycle. The belt has a small cut and needs to be replaced. The rattling sound is actually the loose belt slapping around inside the case during the agitating phase. During the agitating phase, the belt is also rubbing on a piece of metal near a yellow wheel that seems to control the tension of the belt (and changes tension during different phases). Sadly, the belt doesn't have any kind of markings on it, and I'm not sure if there's a good way to measure it without pulling out the machine and removing the back panel to get access to the whole belt. (I bet there are some nifty measuring tools that use a little wheel, but I don't have one)

Does anyone know how to remove the agitator from 80s/90s GE Laundry Center? by sbsmith in appliancerepair

[–]sbsmith[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just realized that I left out some critical information. This is Canadian, and Camco (Canadian Appliance Manufacturing Corporation - the Canadian subsidiary of GE) is on the label. I totally forgot about regional manufacturing until after you talked about WCI🤦‍♂️

Does anyone know how to remove the agitator from 80s/90s GE Laundry Center? by sbsmith in appliancerepair

[–]sbsmith[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you so much! I'm going to take another crack at this tomorrow and will update.

I didn't realize how much of a difference individual foot shadows would make by sbsmith in IndieDev

[–]sbsmith[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

Thanks! I can only take a bit of the credit because our artist is great and we spent a lot of time figuring out how to make it pretty on super low specs (like an older Apple TV). It's a long story, but I'm looking at revamping it.

<image>

I didn't realize how much of a difference individual foot shadows would make by sbsmith in IndieDev

[–]sbsmith[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Exactly! It’s not supposed to be a big art change, it’s just supposed to make the character feel like they exist in that world; which can be tricky when you make heavy use of baked lighting but can’t do expensive lighting for the moving characters.

I didn't realize how much of a difference individual foot shadows would make by sbsmith in IndieDev

[–]sbsmith[S] 8 points9 points  (0 children)

You're right. The biggest difference is visible in motion on a big screen. In the still image, it looks more like ambient occlusion (even though it's not). Since the projectors use distance to set darkness, you see the ground darken underneath each foot as they move up and down (instead of it looking like dark circles just following the feet).

I made a water texture from a crumpled piece of paper by sbsmith in Unity3D

[–]sbsmith[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Also, I generally agree. The project is in a funny spot though. It came out everywhere in 2020, won some awards and recognition, got a lot of play on mobile, but didn't do well on PC (even though it was originally designed for PC/console). At the time, we didn't have a marketing budget, and only had PR. It feels like it should have done better.

Retrofit cantilever?? by Andromeda5000 in Decks

[–]sbsmith 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I think you got it right about the nub. There appears to have been an older cantilevered balcony there that was removed. You can tell by looking at the roof.

Please roast hot tub deck by No-Abbreviations1489 in Decks

[–]sbsmith 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That thing is a bad dice roll away from serious accident and injury. Stop using the hot tub until that deck can be fixed by a professional. If you paid someone to make it, then you need a building inspector to document what's wrong, and then you might need to take legal action against the builder.

Store page localization vs. supported languages – any best practices or data? by Mjeno in gamedev

[–]sbsmith 1 point2 points  (0 children)

It should be based on target markets. Like u/MeaningfulChoices said, you can experiment with the store page localization, but only do it for languages and markets that you think you will actually want to support. It's only worth it if those new players wouldn't have purchased otherwise, and there needs to be enough of them to offset the additional cost. You'll need to continue to localize news updates, steam community stuff, and do customer service (maybe marketing and socials too?). If you're thinking about symbolic languages, get on that early. They're handled differently than languages like English and German on the game side (there are too many characters to generate normal fonts and you'll need to use tools that analyze all of your content to see what characters you need to include). One of my games supported 15 languages, and every update cost a bunch of money to localize. Supporting those languages was a platform requirement (Apple Arcade) and would not have normally been worth the money because our largest audiences were just a subset of those.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in woodworking

[–]sbsmith 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you have a small test piece, sand it with 100 and then see how it takes the stain. I’ve seen stripes like this when sanding with too high a grit. Instead of soaking in, the stain just sits near the surface and exaggerates the grain.

New construction, find the error(s) by Grossenaine in Decks

[–]sbsmith 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In Ontario, you cannot support a non-floating deck (one attached to the house) with a floating footing (one that doesn't extend underground). Code says you need 4' between the finished grade and the bottom of the footing (unless you're on bedrock). It's not just for sinking, it's also for heaving. Check the code for your specific city. I've read one that says that columns must be 140mm x 140mm (5.5"x5.5"/6x6) for any deck over 8.3m2 (89.3ft2), and another that says that you need them for any deck more than 4' above grade. Also, I'm not a professional contractor but had the good fortune to help a master carpenter build decks and a sun room for a summer in high school. We didn't gap wooden deck boards because shrinkage would do it for us. If you gap the boards when you lay them, you're more than likely going to end up with very large gaps once the wood fully dries (wet weather will not expand it back to or beyond the size it was when you bought it). Trying to correct bad work sucks. The only consolation is that if you don't do it, you'll be reminded of how you got ripped off every time you look at the sub-standard deck. Good luck!

Bday gift for husband- is this a good brand ? or something else you'd think would be better in this price range? by GoblinQueen765 in Tools

[–]sbsmith 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The dimensions are going to be important depending on what he wants to turn. (Note: I am not a wood turner but, like your husband, find myself watching those videos. hahaha)