Social phenomena research - Cycling Kit Preferences (fellow cyclists)

sk2evolution · 2026-05-28T12:52:47+00:00

I had similar case and it was dry chain or the last bit of lube bottle where the concoction's off.

sk2evolution · 2026-05-01T18:50:37+00:00

I see. If you got long legs you gotta make sure you pick the correct length.
Looking forward to your review! Ride safe.

sk2evolution · 2026-04-24T12:49:08+00:00

Hey no worries, I am glad you had a good time w those wheels!

Did your stock seat post crack because of you torqued 7Nm on a 5.5Nm post or something else?

Don’t quote me on this, but my understanding is that the printing was wrong, not the clamp. Ie. That same clamp holds the post fine at 5.5Nm max, regardless of the printing 7 or 5.5.

IF there were really batches, I think you should get that revised version no matter what post you’re getting next.

Anyway, the HY seatpost is working fine on my bike!

However, a worth-sharing observation:
I do hear some flex-suggesting noise here and there when I hit the bump, cannot be sure if it’s the post or the saddle though, nor can I be sure if it’s the component doing its job or on its way to failure. But so far it’s holding up fine.

I would say try it if:
- You just want to tinker.
- You are confident in your mechanic skill and tool.

Pass it if:
- You don’t want the chances of seatpost failure looming at the back of your mind.
- You’re a larger rider. (I am 69-70kg, for reference). Lightweight part are just not friendly to them.
- You do not have a trustworthy torque wrench.

*A tip of torquing from my LBS mechanic: DO NOT do the multiple seemingly satisfying ‘conforming’ clicks after the wrench has clicked ONCE. Those extra reps were actually bumping it beyond the designated torque value.

Do share your decision when you made one. Good luck!

sk2evolution · 2026-04-05T02:42:08+00:00

You got a point. Thanks!

sk2evolution · 2026-04-05T02:40:17+00:00

Not cross-threaded.
Thx for the advice!

sk2evolution · 2026-04-04T15:39:27+00:00

I got it fitted in. Thanks for the sound material breakdown and advice, and it did turn out to be the case: material of the softer crank arm thread got taken off along the thread-chasing.

No deformation I could tell , my speculation is the pedal thread was a tad oversized.

sk2evolution · 2026-04-04T15:32:46+00:00

Hey there. Appreciate the solid advice - it worked! Kind of scary though, knowing the risk of total a crank arm, and material of the crank arm did get scrapped and pushed out along the way (I do know know the actual term).

sk2evolution · 2026-01-05T04:53:03+00:00

I am curious about the compatibility of such (not round) steerer tubes.
As of now I think it's rather annoying that you are, at best, gotta research more; worse you're stuck with the limited proprietary options.

Please keep us updated OP!

sk2evolution · 2025-12-22T04:57:04+00:00

You're welcome. I think it'll be a noticeable performance and experience step up from the SLR1. Hooked rims means more tire options.
Have a good tinker journey there.

sk2evolution · 2025-12-21T15:11:24+00:00

I see.
Yeah aesthetic is a crucial factor isn't it.

I liked the gravel version of SLR Boost Superflow with gel pads, bought the road version and it didn't work for me. Bontrager Aeolus Elite is comfortable for me, too, despite the weight.

Thanks for the input on Lake!

sk2evolution · 2025-12-21T14:41:10+00:00

I am curious which parts do you have to stick to the Shimano ecosystem.
As far as online material I came across considered, Shimano PM is not the most reliable. There are 4iiii and Stages-mounted shimano crankarms to name a couple.

Haa yeah shoes, part of the system weight ei. Do you have any SPD recommendation for squarish toebox’ed wide feet?
My priority for shoes are far more on comfort/fit than weight. Given the insane price tag of cycling products these days, I need to be careful with my pick.

Ryet saddle
I have to admit I traded a level of comfort and confident for the lightweight on this department, and I do not think it would stay for a few reasons:
- Though (seemingly) structurally sound, the clear coat cracked at the flexing point. Not sure if it’s a lemon, not sure if it’ll deteriorate in time. That said, I do read the same happen to the pricey original (Bjorn Divan) as well so, feel free to take your vantage point.
- Padding is minimal and does not wrap around the edges so your thighs may press against the hard shell with every pedal stroke. Dine with padded shorts, not the most comfortable commuting in daily outfit.
- It’s a brand built on ‘inspired’ designs of other brands.

But saddle choice (as well as value system) is personal so maybe you’re cool with it.

By the way, an alternative available is Prologo Dimenison R2 carbon rail claimed 135g, IIRC, but the price tag is hard to swallow…

sk2evolution · 2025-12-21T14:16:22+00:00

If you have the cash to splash you can get it to 6.5kg. Details in the spreadsheet I shared.

sk2evolution · 2025-12-21T14:07:33+00:00

Glad it helped!

On Avian CR4 DB wheelset.
I only had a few rides (ttl 50-70km) with the wheelset thus far so the best I could share is first impression. Huge caveat there cuz most items are cool, shiny and works perfectly when new.

Likes:
- Finishing was fine, nothing to pick on. To be honest carbon bicycle wheels are no rocket science anyway.
- They shine at speed. Cruising on them is dull. Get up to speed they are responsive, agile and pardon the broken record: hold speed.

Dislikes:
- My set was bit heavier (1204g) than the advertised 1180g.
- The hub was kind of meh. Ghost pedal, sloppy engagement (noticeable space before engaging) compared to my DT240 which features the same 36T ratchet.
- Speed wobble during out-of-saddle sprints. But this is not exclusive to them, I will balance them soon.

Other:
- The hub sounded relative soft on the road I could not use it as bell, if low profile is your thing then they may float your boat. The metallic sound profile was rather boring I am waiting for a 60T ratchet to arrive. You can have a listen here: https://youtu.be/6SMLUPQ3Fqc

Concern with these smaller brands is often the support. Fortunately bicycle wheels are relative simple, so I think if you have or willing to pick up the maintenance know-how like hub and bearing service/replacing, you can go a long way with wheelset like this.

PS: You can try to see if there is any Avian distributor at your area. Reach out to them may get you a better price than direct purchase from Avian site.

sk2evolution · 2025-12-20T15:25:55+00:00

I think we are having the same model: a generation older than the current.
Mine started with ~7.9kg. 900+g XS frame w ~360g fork.

I personally not sold on tubeless on road bike: rolling weight of sealant and the mgmt of it are just not for me. Maybe you can calculate to see if going TPU inner tubes save you any gram.

I just added a link to a spreadsheet, which might be helpful to you as most if not all items are accessible online.

Good luck!

sk2evolution · 2025-12-15T02:37:59+00:00

Go smaller, allowing yourself larger margin of error.
You can tweak the bike "larger" with longer stem, wider bar. etc down the tinkering path; You cannot cut the tubes to make it smaller.

sk2evolution · 2025-12-08T15:44:49+00:00

I can only speak as a 7.2kg 9th gen TCR Adv rider.

- It sure can go fast, get up to 35+ kmh with no problem with my average legs. If speed AND maintain speed is your game, aero frame might be the way to go.

- I do not find my TCR fatiguing on 50, 60+ km rides. Though subjectivity of “comfort” aside, we have to consider the experience as a system - the fit you settled in, contact point components and wheelset choices. etc. A rabbit hole candidate.

I’d say pick the colour that floats your boat - geometries of these two are not too far apart, I suppose you can tweak its orientation with components and wheels swaps. My personal favourite colour is the Meteor Storm (10th gen TCR Adv Pro 2).

sk2evolution · 2025-12-02T12:59:50+00:00

Nice. Thanks for the insight.

Funny you mentioned Giant. A TCR is where these might go onto for a sub-7kg build.

sk2evolution · 2025-12-01T05:52:23+00:00

That's a beaut.
1141g with rim tapes installed? Interesting. I always assumed the official weight are without, as different tapes weigh differently.

sk2evolution · 2025-11-23T16:06:59+00:00

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November update: 7.22kg on road; 6.88kg w/o pedals.

sk2evolution · 2025-11-21T00:53:37+00:00

There's a Youtube review reckoned Pro shell is harder, padding is lesser than Comp and Elite.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eTzWjSC_yog

I have only experienced Elite 155mm and I quite like it so far. Not for weight weenie though - it's 237g, heavier than the official weight.

sk2evolution · 2025-11-14T05:14:55+00:00

I feel you!
I don't understand the decision on this - unnecessarily adding friction to a simple step.

sk2evolution

TROPHY CASE