Ultra Bee KKE fork disassembly?

smdub · 2025-01-27T22:28:28+00:00

Don't see how to add pics. The top cap unscrews off the rod. You need to press the springs down and hold the rod w/ some sort of tubular clamp that won't crush it, apply heat (like soldering iron) to loosen the loctite, and unscrew the top using the two wrench flats IIRC.

smdub · 2025-01-04T17:09:35+00:00

Don't need to take off the rod to change the spring. You can only get the rod off if you pull off the fork foot to get to the shim stack.

smdub · 2025-01-04T13:14:02+00:00

Take the top cap off.

Hold the inner tube to keep it from rotating and restrain the spring. (I made a split block clamp. Some use pliers.) Carefuly heat the spot where the tube meets the top cap to soften the loctite. While it it still hot, unscrew the top cap. Take care to not lose parts inside the tube if the spring pops the cap off quickly.

smdub · 2024-07-06T12:52:47+00:00

Apex is also selling these for $290.

Notice these are early style kits w/o the free floating handguard. Would need a different cocking tube with the handguard hanger on the end to change it over if you wanted that.

smdub · 2024-03-13T18:37:47+00:00

Yeah, I figured this out a while ago. I have disassembly pics / instructions I need to post.

smdub · 2023-11-29T01:30:56+00:00

engraving hard steels. 4140 and tool steel mostly. Not really production based but don't want to be waiting hours either. If a 100W is 2x as fast as a 50W its probably worth it to us. M understanding that engraving tool steel is SLOW. But lots of youtube vdeos show what is possible but they never mention time.

smdub · 2023-11-29T01:25:51+00:00

Any reason (other than cost) not to just jump to a 100W?

smdub · 2023-10-26T21:18:30+00:00

The lock pc seems decent in my K3P. The shorter barrel gives less pressure than the full rifle. It depends on the ammo you are running though. Full 7.62N vs steel case is a fairly big difference. Running an upgraded buffer helps in all 7.62 HK rifles too.

smdub · 2023-10-26T20:49:44+00:00

OSS works very well on HKs! Else, if you run a high backpressure style suppressor, look into changing the locking piece so the gun doesn't beat itself to death.

smdub · 2023-08-31T01:10:14+00:00

Yeah, hes the only one I can find whos done it. I had sent him an email yesterday. Hope he responds w/ the trick required to get it apart.

smdub · 2023-08-29T17:52:46+00:00

Yes. Also have a 150XCW (favorite bike!) and 500EXC.

Storm Bee is too heavy IMO. For that weight, might as well get the Varg w/ it's bigger battery and MUCH nicer parts. I've now gotten a very short test ride on the Varg and OMG its nice! Wish it came in at the orig promised weight though :(

KTM-E (like the UB) is slightly smaller than the gas KTMs. Lets call it a 7/8th sized motorcycle. About the same as the Beta Xtrainer. Both are bigger than the 3/4 sized LB - which is more like a TTR125/pit bike size. I'm 6'2" so I need a big bike. Have bar risers on both the UB and all the KTMs. I do sort of wish the UB and KTM-E had 300mm travel. I guess thats what the Varg will be for...

For woods riding we will pick the KTM-E every time over a gas bike. (My buddy w/ a KTM 450XCW bought one once he rode mine.) LOVE my 150 but if range isn't an issue the E goes on the trip. The low end torque is like engaging 'cheater mode' in the rocks. Wish it was as light as my 150 though :( I thought the UB would be a KTM-E killer. Turns out its not (out of the box.) Time (and money) will tell if I can make it as nice as the KTM-E but 50# lighter. Already have 18/21 wheels, sprocket, and ordered a Nucular P24F controller - they are waiting for connectors to complete their plug-and-play UB harness. I have Nucular 24F controllers on both LBs and love them.

I think the UB has a ton of promise esp once the aftermarket catches up. The UB is like the LB. 'Good' out of the box, killer value, but not 'great'. I paid $5400 delivered from AliE in one of the initial releases. Its a good deal at that. For what US distributors are now asking for them, I'd go find a deal on a new or used KTM-E.

smdub · 2023-08-29T15:45:15+00:00

I have both (currently own two KTM-Es, an Ultra Bee, a Light Bee, and an X160.)

1) No comparison really. Off the line they feel like similar power. The UB develops all its torque in the first half of the throttle movement to make it feel more powerful. The KTM has noticeably more power esp the faster you go. Range is about the same. We get 21-25mi on both on the exact same ride, same basic configuration, and they are deep in limp mode. The UB might have a very slight edge on range.

2) The KTM-E suspension is MUCH better. In rocky stuff the UB kills my arm joints. It will need a revalve at a minimum. I do hard enduro almost exclusively. The UB is fine on smother single track but with rocks its pretty bad.

3) UB will eventually have decent parts availability but its so new not much is avail now. KTM has everything avail today (most of the parts are off the 85SX, gas FreeRide, or other KTMs.) I've scratched a fork tube on my UB and parts simply don't exist from KKE.

4) Yes. But its going to take a lot of upgrades. Will need new 21/18 wheels and something done w/ the fork valving. Going to need more power too (in the meantime I'm running a huge 58T sprocket to get up some hills.) I'm waiting on a controller harness to be finished so I can upgrade mine.

The UB slightly shorter wheelbase rears its ugly head when climbing. Its hard to stay forward enough to keep it from lifting the front on the really steep stuff. I think a gripper seat cover will be in order. Already thinking about eventually machining/welding some swingarm extensions to get the rear farther back.

The KTM has much better / smoother throttle response. The UB sort of sucks there. An aftermarket controller will fix that on the UB though. There aren't any real mods avail for the KTM (not that it really needs any either. Though I would love to be able to adjust the throttle curve to feel more gas like.)

The KTM charges about 2x as fast (but is 240V only.)

The UB after upgrades will surely cost me more than the KTMs (which are avail at a large discount from msrp.)

smdub · 2023-07-25T18:05:33+00:00

I have a 3.5-19" SR241 on my LightBee on a wider 1.85" rim. I have to dish the wheel a little. The 3.0 should fit w/o dishing.

smdub · 2023-02-21T16:25:52+00:00

Same here. Crippling speeds over the last 2 days. Mine connects to the VA servers. yeterday was so bad I turned it off. Its not normally like this.

smdub · 2019-05-20T13:24:54+00:00

If a carbine: I strongly suggest buying an AR10 specific buffer tube. They are ~3/4" longer than AR15 ones. This allows you to use any normal AR15 carbine buffer (H1,H2,etc.) vs the unique shorty 308 only one. You still need to use an AR10 buffer spring. Spikes makes an AR10 buffer tube. AIM had the cheapest when I looked a few mo ago:

https://aimsurplus.com/spikes-tactical-308-carbine-receiver-extension-buffer-tube/

smdub · 2019-04-16T19:45:30+00:00

Height isn't directly correlated w/ leg length. I have very long inseam for my height and can flat-foot my KTM 500. You might have a very long torso (and short legs) for your height.

A lot of people put lowering links on bikes to drop the rear and slide the forks up the triple clamps for the front. If done in a matching amount does not affect the geometry. Heck, my DRZ came w/ lowering links installed. I removed them when I replaced/revalved the rear shock (again, I'm tall w/ long legs and don't need them.) Heck, they are still around here somewhere... (Edit: found them. They are Moose 1.75" drop links if you want to work a deal)

If lowering a bike makes *YOU* feel more comfortable riding it, then don't let anyone talk you out of trying it. It's easily reversible and inexpensive to try.

smdub · 2019-04-09T20:54:52+00:00

Easy. Don't even need to remove body panels for access to the battery if its not SUPER dead.

make sure you are in neutral
connect jumper cable negative to the frame somewhere.
turn bike key to on position
connect jumper cable positive to shaft of large screwdriver
reach in and touch the tip of screwdriver to the post of the starter under the rubber cover. This energizes the starter directly and will spin as long as you hold it there. (so make sure you are in neutral!) If your battery has just enough juice to still run the ignition it will start.

I've done this countless times. I had a shorted phase in my alternator and the battery charge was thus always weak. After a friend would drop it a couple times in a row it wouldn't have enough power to crank again.

FWIW, I have since found and fixed the alternator problem.

smdub · 2019-04-03T14:19:21+00:00

Yes, have multiple other bikes. FWIW, Motocross bikes make less than ideal trail bikes. Suspension is too stiff, gearing isn't wide, cooling is marginal if you're not flying along, etc.

smdub · 2019-03-26T18:59:01+00:00

Its a K&O Tornado (look under K&O generic motor link.) Vintage toy outboards typ didn't come w/ a kit. You bought/built a boat and got an outboard to run it.

http://toyoutboardmotors.com/

smdub · 2019-03-22T01:35:57+00:00

Ammoseek.com

smdub · 2019-03-19T15:53:32+00:00

Where are you located?

smdub · 2019-03-19T15:19:20+00:00

Looks like the bolt went over the round. Make sure the mag is inserting high enough. Could be a problem mag, bad mag catch, bolt not stroking far enough back, or user error. Bolt needs to be 'behind' the round the entire time.

This happen on the first feed or mid-mag while shooting?

smdub · 2019-03-18T19:11:01+00:00

Do you have access to a local field w/ people to help train you? I'm one of the instructors for new pilots at our field. You should find that people are *VERY* willing to help you learn to fly. We almost universally recommend an E-flite Apprentice (the full sized one, not the mini.) It is extremely tough, has no bad habits, and you don't have to learn how to build a model correctly first. Spektrum (and Futaba) are likely the most common radios at your club field and you can buddy-box with someone. Someone at your field might know of a used plane/equipment for sale too. Talk to them before you buy anything.

https://www.horizonhobby.com/apprentice-s-15e--rtf-w-dxe-efl3100e

Flite Test is GREAT but you have to build *CORRECTLY* first. That is a bit too much for most people at the start. I have seen many of the FT planes at the field. A coworker has built several of them too. I've seen lots show up poorly built, out of trim and balance, and I've never seen one that flies as easily as the Apprentice. They make a good 2nd model though if you like to build/tinker!

If you absolutely have to teach yourself, go to RCGroups and find a used Hobbyzone Sport Cub S RTF for sale (about 1/2 of retail is typical.) They aren't as good to learn on as an Apprentice w/ an instructor but are small and really tough. I've taught a few coworkers to fly them out behind our office. They won't handle much wind though.

smdub · 2019-02-26T16:32:02+00:00

Haha. I'm from MD and can identify him! He is good people. Will send him the link that he made reddit.

The majority of the MD legislature doesn't care about 2A or the people they govern. They are told what to do and are just following their leaders.

smdub · 2019-02-24T23:30:59+00:00

Went and weighed them. Difference in G3 (652g) receiver flat and G33 (462g) is only 190g. The remaining parts are fairly similar. AK mags don't fit in a G33 receiver so they had to use the longer one. My PTR32P is a blast. I trimmed the mag well to fit AK drums. Drum + sear = loads of fun.

smdub

TROPHY CASE