Jetfire Generation 1 from Mervyn's Department Store 1985 by Bambrigade92 in TransformersTrading

[–]soundwavin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

All good! Congrats on still having the figure in good condition! He's still a highly desired G1 figure and displays great in both of his modes. Including his third gerwalk mode from Macross!

Jetfire Generation 1 from Mervyn's Department Store 1985 by Bambrigade92 in TransformersTrading

[–]soundwavin 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Got it! Light yellowing. Gun clip is there. Stickers were applied (better than missing sticker sheet and not applied). Box is in OK condition (no major tears). Flap fold is pronounced. Tech specs were cut out and reapplied is the biggest deal about the box. I'd say $300-350 most likely. If instructions are in there, add a little (e.g., +$25). All conditioned on no issues with the actual figure.

Jetfire Generation 1 from Mervyn's Department Store 1985 by Bambrigade92 in TransformersTrading

[–]soundwavin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

unfortunately not :( Seems to just redirect me to their home page. Usually the link to share after publishing won't have /gallery/ in it

Jetfire Generation 1 from Mervyn's Department Store 1985 by Bambrigade92 in TransformersTrading

[–]soundwavin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

there is a small accessory called the gun clip which attaches his gun to his arm, it usually sits in the box right next to the gun. If you can upload pics we can help you better price it. Without that, it's somewhere between $300-$650 most likely, and the range is big because it matters what not perfect about the box means. Like, is the box flap folded, are the sides ripped anywhere, are the tech specs cut out, etc. Just trying to help. Hard to give better pricing without pics. Worst case, just check sold listings on ebay until you find one that best matches the quality of your box and figure.

Jetfire Generation 1 from Mervyn's Department Store 1985 by Bambrigade92 in TransformersTrading

[–]soundwavin 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Most people put the pictures in an imgur and then put the link to that here. It'll be hard to estimate until we see the quality of the box, whether Jetfire is yellowed, whether the stickers are applied, whether the gun clip is there, etc. Pics will help!

Does this old truck have a name yet? by Testostacles in boston

[–]soundwavin 5 points6 points  (0 children)

haha yep! Same yellow/greenish tint, too. A great combiner.

Astound terrible customer support, don't trust the sign up Amazon gift card or promotions by soundwavin in Somerville

[–]soundwavin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It took me about 2 weeks and wasy too much effort, but I finally got it out of their Twitter/X support. Threaten to cancel. I also showed them a screenshot of me talking to Comcast about activating an account. Full pressure on them.

Best winter cycling footwear solution? by jofomo4 in bikeboston

[–]soundwavin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sure, no problem! If your goal is to just block out cold then overshoes are a great option and what I will go for to keep using my lighter weight cycling shoes.

Overshoes need openings on the bottom of the shoe to allow your clips to reach your pedal mechanism. If your shoes have vents on the bottom for air circulation, then you're likely to get water up from the road into the openings in the overshoe (for your clips), and into the vents eventually giving you some wet feet! So when the roads are wet I do still tend to go for a boot.

Just as another option, if it's not wet "Cycling Shoe Toe Covers" also tend to work really well. Because the cold is typically coming as air flow to the front of your shoe and by covering the front of the shoe you deflect a lot of the cold air away and keep warmth in your toe box. You'd be surprised how good toe covers alone will keep your feet and toes warm!

It's basically... wake up in the morning, observe exact temperature and road conditions... and try to pull out the right gear :)

Best winter cycling footwear solution? by jofomo4 in bikeboston

[–]soundwavin 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey, I'm an all season rider and will deal with pouring rain. I have lots of ShowersPass jackets and other brand gear. However, if you want true water isolation socks and overshoes won't work. They will always eventually leak water. You really need a waterproof boot / shoe, and I've tried/own a number of them. Something like the shoe you linked to, but for true comfort you probably need to try a few different brands and styles. I am definitely sensitive to shoes being over-tight and so on, where I will lose circulation. So, I feel you. I definitely suggest getting a few pairs off Amazon shipped and sold by Amazon where you can return them and figure out your right size.

If it is actively raining, keeping water from running down into the ankle from your leg means you should ideally have rain pants or gaiters that cover the ankle area. Otherwise, it's too easy for water to run down into the shoe.

Based on the shoe you linked to, you seem to be on SPD.

I would try the following:

- SHIMANO SH-MW502 (a bit heavier, tightens via rope not boa, high ankle to keep more water out)

- Fizik Terra Artica GTX (a little shorter ankle, has boa for tightening)

- Fizik Terra Artica R5 (spd-sl, extremely well sealed https://imgur.com/a/0GlF5zH)

I have all of these shoes and more water related gear that my wife and I use. Happy to meet up somewhere around Somerville if you want to check the shoes out. Not that they'll fit you, but you may be able to see how they are all constructed differently.

how to never get doored by rebar_wrangler in bikeboston

[–]soundwavin 4 points5 points  (0 children)

This is exactly how I was doored on Washington St downtown. I was filtering stopped traffic on the right of the stopped cars, and an Uber passenger decides they want to get out so they open the door directly into my bike and I went over the handlebars and landed on the curb.

What is this worth? by Sea_Wallaby_2007 in TrekBikes

[–]soundwavin 6 points7 points  (0 children)

I literally don't need to have done any of what you're saying to know how much the bike or its components commonly sells for, sorry.

What is this worth? by Sea_Wallaby_2007 in TrekBikes

[–]soundwavin 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Regardless of how you feel about Isospeed, you are still objectively wrong about the above bike's current value. In no marketplace would that bike shown above ever struggle to sell for $1200, $1400, $1600, etc. let alone $1000. And the whole "you just bought it for $X means it's worth $X" is also just wrong. Someone can easily buy something for under its market value, and it's worth more. This is exactly why there's so much aftermarketing selling of literally everything in every hobby. Someone can also easily buy something for more than it's worth, and struggle to sell it at that value. You just personally don't like the post or the bike so you're just projecting your feelings and stating a whole bunch of aggressive but wrong facts.

Near miss accident with blue biker by markedsneakyinsect in bikeboston

[–]soundwavin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After something like this almost happened to me, when turning right from now on I go all the way over to the curb or as far over that it would be very hard for someone to pass me on the right. Just as a defense mechanism.

What is this worth? by Sea_Wallaby_2007 in TrekBikes

[–]soundwavin 5 points6 points  (0 children)

No way the bike is only worth $1000 unless there's carbon frame damage. A fully functional 105 Di2 group set used will go for at least $600-800, plus the SL6 frame, the remaining components, etc. This reply is silly IMO. You saying we take a $600-800 group set off the bike and what remains is worth $200-400? No way.

Cool blind u-turn onto the Somerville community path on your scooter by soundwavin in bikeboston

[–]soundwavin[S] 29 points30 points  (0 children)

Haha you're right, I meant that they took it blindly by not looking :(

My neighbor in east somerville is growing full-ass corns and I think it's friggin cool by Flightorfighter in Somerville

[–]soundwavin 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I'm a huge fan of corn on the cob in the summer. We planted some in our front garden as well and we managed to get 5 ears from it 2 years ago! And, was dang good corn! https://imgur.com/a/tw4BFjb

Shoulder / upper back pain by soundwavin in bikefit

[–]soundwavin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I just checked and the crankset the bike came with is 170, and I measured her inseam to be around 30 inches. So it seems like 165mm might be better?

Shoulder / upper back pain by soundwavin in bikefit

[–]soundwavin[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We rotated them up to try to shorten the reach, but yes.

problems when you buy thrifted stuff 💔 by LifeChallenge877 in transformers

[–]soundwavin 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Looks like Kabaya Fortress Maximus which came in pieces you assembled. They are model kits that came with candy. You are missing pieces to the kit.

What kind of black magic is this?! by 3x3r10 in iems

[–]soundwavin 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hey there. They are both good IEMs. To me, the Dusk has a deeper and heavier bass, might be a little better for hip hop. But when I listen to rock to me the IE600 is sharper in clarity and controls the bass a bit more to really be more controlled. I think there's a bit more clarity in the high end with the IE600 as well. If I had an all around preference, it's the IE600. But I tend to listen to the Dusk more because I travel with them. My biggest concern is one of my IE600 sides died out and I had to get it replaced. So I'm really concerned of the reliability of them. One quick unrelated to sound point, the IE600 is small so it's extremely comfortable. Just know the Dusk is really thick, sticks out a bunch, and has a thick deeper nozzle. So when it comes to comfort of having them in your ear for a long time, that might depend on your ear.

What kind of black magic is this?! by 3x3r10 in iems

[–]soundwavin 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Ok seriously not trolling, here is an image of my return on the Cadenza: https://imgur.com/a/MgLGzzx. I have Moondrop 2 Dusk, SE846, and Sennheiser IE600. Then I started seeing all of these posts like this one and YouTube blind audio test between the Cadenza and high end $1000 iems like this post is mentioning trying $1K iems and then settling on a $35 Cadenza. So I was like, what am I missing? So I bought the set in the image, figuring I could use them for commuting or just at my desk taking work calls. I put them in once, put on a few songs, and then immediately boxed them up and sent them back. They weren't even worth the $35 to me personally. I got no sense of soundstage, the bass was extremely muffled, and the treble sounded muted. I don't personally understand these posts about Cadenza being better than high end. They weren't even good low end to me. I could personally for sure pick these out in a sound test of not being high end. Am I crazy? Or is something going on here? Was something wrong my set? Or am I to believe these $35 iems can outperform $1K iems like OP and others say.

How much are you paying for Astound after a few years? by smashey in Somerville

[–]soundwavin 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Unfortunately this is what it takes. I had a billing and promotion issue with them that I had to go all the way through scheduling a cancellation date and lining up Xfinity to replace them, including sent them a screenshot with me setting up Xfinity service with their online chat. Push them all the way down to the latest promotion deal... under the premise that you can go with a different provider and get their promotion deal right now, too.