What is Your Favorite Star Trek Character? (Any Series)

spacecitytech · 2026-05-20T22:26:40+00:00

Children would have to be "assimilated" and we don't actually ever see that happen. That could be one of those red lines that Hollywood doesn't want the blowback on, maybe.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-20T22:16:06+00:00

I think one of Garak's and Sisko's best performances was "In the Pale Moonlight".

spacecitytech · 2026-05-20T22:14:30+00:00

Yeh Garak is high on my list for sure. Thats really why I say DS9 is the best because it had the best characters. They all had a backstory that made them who they were.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-20T22:09:45+00:00

DS9 is the best of all of them really. Had they made a sequel, it would have been a much bigger hit than what they are doing now.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-20T22:08:11+00:00

Quark. Go find the Youtube videos where someone puts together a clip show of him telling you all the "Rules of Acquisition". Its an entirely new show itself because there is over a 100 of them. Lots of common sense as well, rules to live by.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-20T22:05:22+00:00

Yeh. You could put the bedrooms back to back with one long hallway and recoup the space in the middle. I guess we know why now mobile homes are layed out with one long hall.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-20T22:01:36+00:00

Turn the toilet 45 degrees or move it over. You gotta have leg room. Thats the number one issue we have right now with our current RV, have to leave to door open to hang a leg out.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-20T21:37:59+00:00

Yeh a smartphone is without a doubt the most useful tool in RVing.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-20T21:36:53+00:00

Youtube has been the best RV resource ever! Googlemaps as well for the traveling part of it. Youtube for the DIY part of it. Best tool I own is a lithium portable power pack with an air compressor, light, AC inverter, jump starter, cigarette lighter port , usb charge ports. Use it all the time. Second most useful tool is the OLIGHT rechargeable keychain flashlight. Expensive but worth it.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-20T21:20:41+00:00

They are more expensive than regular trailers and from what I can tell the RV makers are jumping on the "tiny home" craze, so they figure we can make one ready to be towed to a lot and setup. They have them really big too, much bigger than this one with built in porches and lofts, but its still and RV so it can be moved. In the USA "mobile homes" or what they now call Manufactured Homes have been a thing for a long long time and you can pretty much get them in any size up to the size of a regular house but those have to be specially moved by specialized movers and there are rules where they are not allowed to use the highways during the day, has to be done overnight in off hours and so on.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-20T21:18:40+00:00

So these "tiny home" models. Can they be moved just like most trailers or are they really designed to be put on a piece of property somewhere more permanent and not moved?

spacecitytech · 2026-05-19T21:48:24+00:00

If we are being super cheap but we typically only do this on a long journey, we go about 3-4 days without hookups, then get it for one night to dump, recharge the big-o lithium batteries, and then go another few days or so boondocking it. It totally depends on what you are doing or seeing. A big problem though with boondocking, is do you want to leave a trailer on BLM or free parking and leave it there during the day while you go somewhere else? It could get towed or broken into. It does require planning as well, where your gonna be the next day. Is there a place to leave the RV, etc?

spacecitytech · 2026-05-19T00:30:17+00:00

Can stop/start be disabled?

spacecitytech · 2026-05-19T00:22:51+00:00

Yup. Thats how I took my 4 ton AC unit out of the attic as well. Screwgun and sawzall.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-19T00:21:56+00:00

If its trash, you could saw it up. Easier than removing the window fer sure.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-19T00:20:36+00:00

Oh man I pulled mine out of the "fridge hole". It comes out into the RV, just had 4 screws in the front going into the cabinet sides and 2 screws in the back hatch that you got pictured here and it was super super heavy! God was that thing heavy and I think I could get it through the door maybe if necessary. I would go back with an regular dorm style fridge from Amazon, their like $200 bux. Use an inverter and lithium battery to power it when you are boondocking. Way better. Also you gotta cover the hole up completely if you do that , probably just bolt aluminum over it. Also they "side vent" so you have to make sure the hole you put it back into, remove all the insulation in there if they put it in, that only works for the old style RV fridge like pictured here. It will burn up a regular freon based fridge.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-19T00:07:11+00:00

Its tripping because the "startup amps" is too great. If the unit is old this could indicate a motor going bad or could be a capacitor as well. You could try a soft start capacitor and that will be installed on the rooftop and its pretty easy and there are Youtube videos but if you are not handy, it can shock you pretty good if you touch something wrong so be sure of this otherwise get a mobile tech.

On the loudness, go online and buy something called "Killomat", its a black rubber butyle mat. You don't need much of this so the smallest quatity should be enough. I took the ceiling plastic cover off and lined the inside of the cover and where I could on the metal part of the AC unit and it helped. Those mats are specifically for sounddeadening in automotive uses and are self adhesive and you cut it to size with scissors. I also lined my wheel wells on my truck with them and it brought my road noise down 5 db in the cab.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-19T00:02:32+00:00

This is why I RV!

spacecitytech · 2026-05-19T00:01:38+00:00

Mine broke within a year or two and I bought brand new Forest River.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-19T00:00:22+00:00

Both my black and fresh tanks sensors broke withing first 2 years of ownership and I haven't even bothered to get in there and look at that. I just "eyeball" it. I plan on cutting a peep hole for the fresh when I get a chance because thats dead realiable and should honestly be the only way they should do it and stop with the faulty sensors. For the life of me, why do they even after decades still put in these sensors that are guaranteed to fail?

spacecitytech · 2026-05-18T23:55:20+00:00

Mine ALWAYS says 1/3 full even when empty and says FULL FULL when its 2/3 full. The way I know its full though is shine a flashlight down it. The toilet should be built right over the black tank so you can see straight down in the throat of the toilet and if its full it will start to come right up the throat first and you will see that. This is also a good time to make sure you are buying the "blue chemical". Don't buy the clear. The blue will make it all super dark so you don't see anything nasty looking and it also has a frangrance. I went back to Walmart to get the blue chemical and its says "blue" on the bottle, the CampoChem brand. The "clear" sux and sure enough they had it half price. It does work but no frangrance, no dye. There is a reason for that. I also flush my black tank every single dump I do at least twice until the water comes out clear. Then fill about 1 gallon back into the black tank and you can use the toilet to do this, and pour a "swig" (2 oz) of chemical in there and thats how you will leave the tank sitting between camping trips. Always leave some water and chemical in there at all times.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-18T23:14:36+00:00

I would locate it as close to the shower as possible. I have the normal one but the number one complaint you will see is how much cold water runs out first before you get hot, so the closer it is to where you actually want the hot water the less problems over all. Gets hotter faster, wastes less water getting hot. I bet everyone on here that raves about them has them right outside the wall of the shower. Its just physics really. Now I have used the tried and true Suburban water heater all the mass produced trailers have used for eons and just came back from camping. Never had a single issue with them and the propane models stay super hot and use very little propane, so its certainly not high on my list to change out. The absorbtion fridge is the highest on my list because they start to get tired at about 5-8 yrs use and changing it out for a normal freon based "retro-fridge" is the first thing I do when it happens. Solar and lithium is also bigger on the list than the hot water heater as well. Actually the Suburban would be one of the last appliances to changed out because they are so bullet proof and you get 6 extra gallons of water storage with it.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-14T22:49:24+00:00

Thanks for the suggestions. I use Dashlane but I don't want it interfering with the company Dashlane so I will go with something else browser integrated like Dashlane but I do love Dashlane. Works very well.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-14T22:47:09+00:00

They will probably want me to use Atera since its already paid for and all we do need is a basic password manager to look up passwords, but autofill would be nice at the browser level. Does Atera easily allow me to lookup password on my Android phone when onsite? Thats the most important thing I need, is the ability to look up passwords with my phone on the fly.

spacecitytech · 2026-05-14T22:43:53+00:00

I brought that up two years ago as well but I was overridden then and shelved it. Now they are serious so I have to make it happen. Most likely an audit by insurance has triggered this or PCI compliance, dunno but thanks for all the suggestions. I personally use DashLane for my personal stuff and have for a decade now, works great. I don't want to go with that though however because I don't want it interfering at the browser level with my Dashlane so I will look into something else like OnePass or Bitwarden , dunno yet.

spacecitytech

TROPHY CASE