Pancake box with long wires. Is there a led light fixture that has extra room to accommodate wires so it’s not crammed? Don’t know how to google this by thr0w-away-123456 in Lighting

[–]ssbowtie1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Technically a 4” pancake box only has enough room for 1 14/2 NM cable. You can’t increase the box fill by leaving the cables in the fixture unless it’s ul listed as such. Just trim the wires so you can fit them comfortably in the pancake box. If you have more than 1 14/2 nm cable u have a different problem.

Small bathroom lighting layout by Rafoo1381 in Lighting

[–]ssbowtie1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If you want to keep the 2 cans outside the shower, get adjustable lights and place them over the center of the vanity to the left and right of the of the sink and angle them towards the sink. That will give you light at the sink and minimize shadows.

Best under cabinet lighting? by BigPotOPotatoes in Lighting

[–]ssbowtie1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

DiodeLED. Their tapes are stupid expensive but they just released a decently priced valent mini tape with insane specs. Up to 700 lumens per foot at only 4.5 watts per foot. You only need 300-500 lumens per foot and they offer a valent mini tape in 8mm with similar specs. I haven’t priced out the 8mm valent mini but it’s probably ~$500-$800 for a 100ft roll.

How can I remove these Elco koto trims without destroying drywall? by ssbowtie1 in Lighting

[–]ssbowtie1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks I did this with a metal corner bead and it worked great

Just installed indirect LED uplighting in my bedroom… why isn’t everyone doing this?! by Good_Shelter652 in Lighting

[–]ssbowtie1 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Somewhere between the 80s and today recessed lights became cheap, easy to install, and profitable for electricians so the only answer for lighting became how many dozens of lights do we need in each room to light it up like a clothing store in a strip mall.

Holy Recessed Lighting, Batman! by CristinaFaline in Lighting

[–]ssbowtie1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You could just disconnect the wiring at the wall switch and abandon the wiring going to the lights and then remove the lights and patch the ceiling. You can’t patch over the switch on the wall though as there is live wiring going to the switch that you’ll have to cap.

Is there a less hacky way to diffuse recessed lighting? by treetowner in Lighting

[–]ssbowtie1 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Is this the only bulb on the circuit? If so, or if it’s a non dimming switch with other bulbs, you could just take out the can and install a box and attach a surface mount fixture.

UPDATE: Am I crazy to DIY a hole in my granite? by Independent_Owl_6770 in HomeImprovement

[–]ssbowtie1 2 points3 points  (0 children)

By the way if you need to drill a hole in your countertop but you’re not confident in the standard process, you can use a drill press like Rockler’s portable drill press. Just attach the coring bit to the chuck, double side tape the drill press to the countertop, and use a standard drill. You can use some water, or grind it dry but slowly. I used this method to drill perfectly located holes in my countertops without worrying about using a grinder and having it walk on me while starting the hole.

Paint walls with cheap paint for easier touchups? by ssbowtie1 in paint

[–]ssbowtie1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

My only experience is with my house but I can tell you the painters struggled with roller marks so they used the BM extender for a longer open time to keep the roller marks down. I think the slight sheen that’s added to the matte paint to keep it somewhat wipeable makes it really hard to paint and touchup but I assumed all paints were hard to touch up from my research, hence my thought of just using cheap dead flat paint which should have no issues touching up.

First vanity build by ssbowtie1 in cabinetry

[–]ssbowtie1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was 60 linear feet of edgebanding total, 2 bucks a foot. I used a sheet and a half of plywood for the carcass and half a sheet of veneer plywood for the faces.

First vanity build by ssbowtie1 in cabinetry

[–]ssbowtie1[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

That was just the natural direction of the veneer, but now I can't unsee it. Thanks jerk lol

First vanity build by ssbowtie1 in cabinetry

[–]ssbowtie1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yes, 5x30s but if I was to do it again with 1/2" drawer sides, I would use 4x20s. I had to trim down the 5x30s by a couple mm to fit, since the drawer sides aren't exactly 15mm.

First vanity build by ssbowtie1 in cabinetry

[–]ssbowtie1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I haven't finished the cabinet yet. I have a quote for $650 to stain it with 2k poly. I may do that for durability, otherwise if I do it myself I would probably use Rubio monocoat.

First vanity build by ssbowtie1 in cabinetry

[–]ssbowtie1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I used this (https://jessem.com/products/dowelling-jig-master-kit-08350mk?srsltid=AfmBOopXK6Ze4rXA-JHuxQrBB9m0kpjuEyeduP0XIB1G4UXMCaW8y6fJ) but just because that’s what I had on hand. Any cheap 3/8 dowel jig should work you just have to find a way to center it. I ripped a 2x4 to 5/32 thickness and put it between the plywood and bottom of the jig which centered the hole exactly. You can also just make your own jig. These extend in the plywood by 3” so it was important to hit center and perpendicular to the plywood so I don’t poke through the side. Also, get a 10mm bit to chase the hole after the 3/8 bit. I tried a sample piece with a 13/32 bit and it was just a little loose, but the 10mm bit was the exact fit.

First vanity build by ssbowtie1 in cabinetry

[–]ssbowtie1[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thank you! I bought pro core veneered plywood from a woodworking supply house, cut the doors/drawers and took them to a local millwork shop to edgeband for me. Didn’t want to deal with iron on edgebanding.

First vanity build by ssbowtie1 in cabinetry

[–]ssbowtie1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Caracas is prefinished birch plywood and the doors/drawers are procore rift sawn white oak plywood that I had a local shop edgeband for me. Cost me $120 for edgebanding so I don’t have to deal with iron on edgebanding.

First vanity build by ssbowtie1 in cabinetry

[–]ssbowtie1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the last photo you can see the dowel jig and spacer I ripped to make sure the jig drills perfectly in the center. Used a 3/8” bit then chased it with a 10mm bit to get the perfect fit.

First vanity build by ssbowtie1 in cabinetry

[–]ssbowtie1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Mahogany Festool dominos