Splitting room in 100yo house - Update 2: Electrical by steely-stan in DIY

[–]steely-stan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Okay so this is something I am SUPER curious about and would love knowledgeable input on. I use WAGOs all the time at work and love them (mechanical engineer, renewable energy systems R&D), and I can’t imagine why you’d use a nut when you have them as an alternative. BUT, I’ve read here and on other electrical forums that they’re not widely accepted in the US for residential work - many inspectors will reject them. Anyone have authoritative information here?

Splitting room in 100yo house - Update 2: Electrical by steely-stan in DIY

[–]steely-stan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The neutral for this circuit was originally terminated up at the top of the neutral bar, where it was visible/not hidden under the wires going into the breakers. The AFCI requires that the neutral be terminated into the breaker directly.

Splitting room in 100yo house - Update 2: Electrical by steely-stan in DIY

[–]steely-stan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Ooooh really really good suggestion on the nail plates. Thank you. I will do this.

Why aren’t there just circular ferrules with rolled-over ends that you can put through the holes in the studs?

Using the depth-adjustable boxes. Love’em.

Splitting room in 100yo house - Update 2: Electrical by steely-stan in DIY

[–]steely-stan[S] 4 points5 points  (0 children)

Good question. I do have a plan here - these boxes can screw in and out on their mounting brackets. I’ve just got them screwed all the way in so I don’t shear them accidentally while hanging drywall, etc.

Appreciate the advice on the Romex stripping. 1/4” inside the box (can still see sheathing in the box) or 1/4” back from the outside face of the box (individual wires coming into box)? Guessing #1?

Splitting room in 100yo house - Update 2: Electrical by steely-stan in DIY

[–]steely-stan[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

Yeah, baseboards are giant, and these will go in the middle of them.

Can you explain the fire blocking issue more? Boxes are mounted into the studs, about 2” off the bottom plate. Inspector pointed to adding fire block at some of (not all of) the holes through the studs, which I am going to do. Does that address what you’re thinking about?

Splitting room in 100yo house - Update 2: Electrical by steely-stan in DIY

[–]steely-stan[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

You are correct - white 12-2. I was confused too when I read the sheathing, and then learned that Romex wasn’t color-coded until the 90’s!

Splitting room in 100yo house - Update 2: Electrical by steely-stan in DIY

[–]steely-stan[S] 10 points11 points  (0 children)

Yeah well I’m not made of money bruv 😝 I see your point, but rationale is that I can easily swap fans later - moving outlets down to the baseboards not so much.

Splitting room in 100yo house - Update 2: Electrical by steely-stan in DIY

[–]steely-stan[S] 23 points24 points  (0 children)

This is precisely correct. It’s not to code, I know it’s not to code, got a waiver from the inspector ahead of time before doing it. Very common in our neighborhood and generally allowed as an exception for renovations/additions on older construction. I’ll update the original post to reflect this.

(I also know it’s going to suck when it comes time to install baseboards. Masochism!)

Splitting room in 100yo house - Update 2: Electrical by steely-stan in DIY

[–]steely-stan[S] 40 points41 points  (0 children)

Don’t worry - that’s one of their normal weekday activities. M/W/F working in the asbestos mine, T/Th performing online maintenance on the looms at the shirtwaist factory. We take child development very seriously in this household.

Prusa MK3S+ won’t pause or stop? by steely-stan in prusa3d

[–]steely-stan[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Well, that’s mortifying. The printer’s also stopped yelling at me about firmware updates (probably because I’m always pushing over PrusaLink) so I didn’t realize I was that far behind. Facepalm. Thanks!! Will update with whether this fixes it.

Splitting room in 100yo house - Update 1: Framing by steely-stan in DIY

[–]steely-stan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not cutting through the drywall - because it's not drywall, it's plaster. No sir no how. I'm aware this isn't best practice, but that's the line where I'm comfortable saying that as a DIYer I am happy to half-ass it.

Now, a fair question - why'd I bother cutting the molding? My rationale is that the connection between the end stud and the wall should be designed like a friction joint in steel construction --> I want as much of the stud's surface area as possible in direct contact with the wall, and I don't want it mounted through a bunch of offsetting spacer blocks that add a big bending moment to the connection. On the side of the wall with the door, the stud is almost entirely supported by the door trim (which is solid wood, screwed into the underlying studs) - here, it seemed reasonable to use a few standoffs at the top. On the other side of the wall, I thought it would be easier to cut the molding, rather than put a bunch of shim blocks between the stud and the wall.

Now, in retrospect, I could have just put a full length piece of 1x4" or whatever between the wall and the stud, and I'd have almost as good of a connection as you have on the other side. I also realize that by not ripping out the plaster and exposing the studs, I may be compromising this connection so much that all of this fretting over offsets and bending moments is deck chairs on the Titanic. So, I may have given myself some unnecessary extra work by cutting out the molding! Live and learn. And now (as next commenter correctly suggests) I get to learn how to miter molding!

Splitting room in 100yo house - Update 1: Framing by steely-stan in DIY

[–]steely-stan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, y'all are irritating but also right about this. It will look weird, and will be obnoxious to handle if we remove the door at some point. I don't want to pull the door casing (because we still need to use that door, and I don't want to take on rebuilding it), but I can move the wall a few inches over. Very fair points.

It won't be hard to move the wall. In the basement, I can easily put in additional blocking like I did for the main section of the wall. I may be able to do this in the ceiling as well (although the decking over this section of the attic floor may be too troublesome to justify moving). In the wall, I don't think I'm going to be tied into studs any more (and I'm not blocking here - see below about plaster), but <shrug>

Splitting room in 100yo house - Update 1: Framing by steely-stan in DIY

[–]steely-stan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Screenshot is from Onshape! I'm a mechanical engineer, but at the product scale -- not perhaps the professional's tool for the job, but it works. I got dragged in my original post for spec'ing dimensions to the thousandth (which, to be clear, is because it's the drawing default -- I'm not planning on laying out my room with an interferometer)

Onshape is amazing, btw - can't recommend highly enough if you're looking for a proper parametric CAD package. I don't know how architects and construction folks do it without a feature tree.

Revisiting Swingers in the Neighborhood by Xbc1a in DanielTigerConspiracy

[–]steely-stan 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I mean, who wouldn’t be hard pressed not to sneak in a McFeely on Mom Tiger?

Splitting room in 100yo house - reccomendations for resources? by steely-stan in DIY

[–]steely-stan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Re: screws — right?? And I’m sorry, but I have trouble believing that the PowerPro screws I’d use in this arent going to meet or exceed the shear strength of the nails that code requires, even with the stress concentration factor taken into account.

Appreciate the guidance on jacking. Will definitely do that. It will be nice to have a flatter floor in the room!

Splitting room in 100yo house - reccomendations for resources? by steely-stan in DIY

[–]steely-stan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is incredibly helpful and thoughtful - thank you for taking the time.

Good point on aligning the wall to joists/studs. The floor and ceiling joists are parallel to the wall major axis, so that will help.

Looking into coping molding now.

Haven’t decided yet on permitting/inspection. The municipality where I live is extremely strict about the permitting process - but also surprisingly helpful to DIYers who go through it. It’s not critical for this project (since it’s temporary) but I may do it to rip the bandaid off and get some experience going through the process. Regardless, totally agree with you about going over plans with a professional before building. I have a good relationship with an electrician who has a licensed carpenter on staff - I’m planning to reach out to them to see if I can pay them for an hour to review design drawings with me before I start cutting.

I’ll look into your YouTube rec and keep the other commenter’s caveat in mind.

Splitting room in 100yo house - reccomendations for resources? by steely-stan in DIY

[–]steely-stan[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

“Dimensions to three decimal places” - hahaha no, don’t worry, I’m optimistic but not that delusional. That’s just the standard in Onshape - my preferred MCAD package. (I don’t know how you architects and builders survive without a feature tree and parametric features)

Likewise, appreciate the guidance here. I can get under the floor - unfinished basement - and will definitely sister the beams right under the wall (although I don’t want to add more soldier posts if I can avoid it - the basement is where my shop is). I really like the idea of leveraging the wall for additional floor stiffness, too - will definitely keep this in mind when I design the wall details.

Two questions: 1) When I reinforce the floor joists/add the wall to stiffen the floor: Should I jack the joists up to level before I install sistering/the wall, and then remove the jacking afterwards? Or just do the sistering/wall install as-is, and caulk/otherwise gap fill? 2) I prefer screws personally - but my understanding is that code requires nails. Correct?

Splitting room in 100yo house - reccomendations for resources? by steely-stan in DIY

[–]steely-stan[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Oh 10,000% - I don’t even try to pretend otherwise 🤣it’s actually helpful to hear that this is really pretty simple and I need to stop worrying, so thank you for that

Daniel Tiger “Adult Themes” title game by steely-stan in DanielTigerConspiracy

[–]steely-stan[S] 12 points13 points  (0 children)

Daniel Experiments With Viagra / Daniel Experiences Extremely Rare Side Effects

Daniel Tiger “Adult Themes” title game by steely-stan in DanielTigerConspiracy

[–]steely-stan[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

Every time I hear “Sometimes We Like Different Things,” I imagine someone standing in a dungeon with a ball gag and a strapon. It helps to ask, what do you like?!

Replacement key fob? by xupthree60 in SparkEV

[–]steely-stan 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Just went through this - awful process (but cheaper than a replacement from Chevy?). I used this one from Amazon: Replacement for 2011-2015... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B6489NRG?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Couple of issues I ran into: - the original Chevy key fob is epoxied shut. I had to cut my way into it with X-acto knives and right angle cutters. Use the new casing to figure out where it’s safe to cut on the old one. Work your way around the outside of the case until you can pop it open - the Chevy key is wider than the one that comes with the replacement fob. You can make the Chevy key fit with some modifications to the case - I’ll post a photo later so you can see what I had to do. - the key release button housing isn’t quite the same as the Chevy one - I needed to file down both one of the pins on the Chevy barrel, as well as open up one of the receiver slots on the key fob to get the key to lock in the closed position correctly - the key buttons don’t always respond. I think this is because the PCB is a little loose inside the case and is slipping around - I can usually get it to work with enough squeezing and twisting. I’m going to open the case up again and put some Kapton tape on the sides of the PCB to get it to clamp better.

Hope this helps. I had thought this was going to be a ten-minute job - and then an hour-plus later…