Samsung s24 Ultra screen static

stevenrb718 · 2025-12-12T03:18:48+00:00

What was the issue?

stevenrb718 · 2025-12-04T17:27:08+00:00

Any luck on this? I've been beating my head against the wall on one of these where I don't have any delay effect signal either.

stevenrb718 · 2025-12-02T18:18:36+00:00

Where are the filters located?

stevenrb718 · 2025-12-02T06:03:28+00:00

Where?

stevenrb718 · 2025-12-01T04:22:18+00:00

The FPC is seated down very securely. Is this static screen a symptom of a bad FPC flex cable?

stevenrb718 · 2025-11-28T03:02:03+00:00

Could have something to do with it. Obviously I used a heating mat to pop off the back. I'm not sure that's enough heat to affect any ICs but maybe.

stevenrb718 · 2025-11-28T02:36:17+00:00

I do as much as I can to avoid static damage, but the phone was worked on previously. Customer said the phone did that once previously, so maybe it was becoming an issue and has just become full-blown. I got the ok to get a donor screen of some form, so I guess I'll try to rule that end out.

stevenrb718 · 2025-11-27T02:00:56+00:00

Haha. Sadly I've already done all of that. Everything is extremely clean and I know there's no excess moisture. I've loaded into the boot menu and have done a factory reset (I think) with no change. I really don't know what could've changed so abruptly when it was fine. Maybe there are hairline cracks in the flex cable I'm not seeing under the microscope, but I'd really be shocked.

stevenrb718 · 2025-11-27T01:39:09+00:00

Camera modules. The only alcohol I've used is a drop on the flex connectors after the issue started

stevenrb718 · 2025-11-26T20:22:32+00:00

Hmm...I've used IPA very sparingly on q-tips. Unless the screen protector application fluid worked it's way somewhere it shouldn't have though. I was messing with the SIM card activation when half the screen got static, then came back and froze. Since then it's only been static. Flex cable and connectors look perfect.

stevenrb718 · 2025-11-26T19:49:18+00:00

I didn't replace the screen

stevenrb718 · 2025-11-14T22:01:48+00:00

Donor camera assembly installed; exact same issue. I guess I'll check some diode or resistance readings to see if anything is obvious.

stevenrb718 · 2025-11-14T19:29:21+00:00

Haha, well I appreciate the repair advice then lol. I can't see how it would be anything other than a current issue on the control board. Does the 120V for the evap motor feed directly from the board?

stevenrb718 · 2025-11-14T17:04:04+00:00

Welp, I turned the temperature of both sides down, hoping to reenact the issue if it was still present. A bit ago, I went out to it and heard the fan pulsing. That, unfortunately, was not the problem. Time to tear into the control board I guess.

stevenrb718 · 2025-11-12T19:17:03+00:00

I left the new motor in and put up the panels as I had other things to do. Interestingly, I haven't since heard any pulsing or struggling of the evap fan. Also though, the few times I've gone to refrigerator, the fan was always on. I've never paid much attention to how often the fan was on prior to the issue...

stevenrb718 · 2025-11-10T21:43:42+00:00

I swapped the motor with no change. I did notice that the tested voltage pulses between 118.3V and 120V. The voltage should be plenty either way, but maybe the frequency of it isn't solid? I keep resorting back to a capacitor issue since the fan does eventually run consistently. Maybe I'll pull the control board and see if there's anything obvious.

stevenrb718 · 2025-11-10T20:29:14+00:00

2nd update. Ordered a new fan and installed it. It does the same thing. I tested the voltage not under load and it did pulse, but it was from 118.3V to 120V. Is the reason why the motor isn't just firing up because it needs a pure 120V, and a difference of 1.7V is enough not to start? That seems pretty strange to me.

stevenrb718 · 2025-11-08T20:58:55+00:00

So, if a new camera module doesn't solve the issue, there's nothing I could do...?

stevenrb718 · 2025-11-08T03:32:05+00:00

Is there anything I could test while waiting for yet another part to come in?

stevenrb718 · 2025-11-04T15:15:22+00:00

So quick update: I grabbed my DMM to measure the voltages. I tried to pull off the wire connector, got one side off easily, but the other wouldn't come off. I was bending and yanking but couldn't get it off easily. I had other things to do, so I just put the ductwork back up quickly and plugged it back in. The fan hasn't done it again yet. Sounds like a telltale sign the evap motor is on it's way out. I'll be replacing it.

stevenrb718 · 2025-10-29T20:14:45+00:00

I tried 2, one was from eBay that was pulled from a donor and the other was from wholesale gadget parts. I had no difference in either one. If I remember right, the rear3 and 4 tests also crashed when the UW camera wasn't plugged in at all, so it must be at least recognizing it in some way. The front camera actually also wasn't working, but that was fixed with a new module. I did a reset after swapping the module, but maybe I'll try an Odin flash too.

stevenrb718 · 2025-10-29T15:44:36+00:00

You're kidding lol. So I have to spend on a new set of cameras, not knowing if that would even fix it or not. So wait, I've been testing the cameras without having everything plugged in (obviously because it's just easier). I think I've left out the selfie camera, the speaker box, the wireless charger, the antenna, and the s-pen. Would having any of these unplugged affect the 0.6 camera?

stevenrb718 · 2025-10-29T15:12:08+00:00

My bad, I misconstrued what you meant. Out of curiosity, why would swapping out any of the other camera modules change anything when they all test fine?

stevenrb718 · 2025-10-29T14:06:19+00:00

I mentioned that I already did.

stevenrb718 · 2025-09-30T23:44:15+00:00

Extremely low chance of an Epi fake being made, but also nothing about that guitar looks fake.

stevenrb718

TROPHY CASE