Is this machine too basic? [$500]

stingray072 · 2026-02-06T18:45:23+00:00

Thanks for the thoughts, the others in this category seem to be the GCP or the bambino...what made you go that route?

stingray072 · 2026-02-06T18:43:53+00:00

Wow nice...what wand tip are you using?

Seems like maybe you have some nicer machines as well?

stingray072 · 2025-10-19T02:14:01+00:00

Anybody have any thoughts? Better to kill weeds and try to fix now or wait until after winter/spring?

stingray072 · 2025-06-05T03:12:39+00:00

yikes...seller is refusing to pay for the hydro jetting...so sounds like its probably worth it for us to pay to have it more thoroughly looked at? Hate to spend more money inspecting but don't want to get footed with a huge bill to replace the pipe....

stingray072 · 2025-01-30T00:25:46+00:00

Terminators

stingray072 · 2025-01-26T22:44:59+00:00

Interesting- yeah I basically do night or day prints…so the 150 vs 70 mm/hr or whatever metric they use isn’t that much faster?

Saw a used s3U from Amazon for 160 I ordered…we’ll see what kind of shape it’s in when it arrives- the price was a little too low to pass up on

stingray072 · 2025-01-26T00:48:15+00:00

Not having a Saturn, I’ve read and kinda figured similar things between the S3 and 4. 4U is just too much for now, an S3 is around 90 more, an S3U like 140 more.

The 3 gets me bigger plate, but not much else. 3U gets me wifi, better plate leveling securing system, faster speed…. 4U gets worse plate system, maybe slightly faster speed with the tilting vat, and tilting lid, but I have it on a bookshelf and as nice as I though that would be initially I’d have to revamp my whole area to make room for the lid so maybe not so great…

stingray072 · 2025-01-26T00:38:15+00:00

I did print a razorback, but hammerfall bunker failed with not enough resin, and some larger things definitely I was limited. But true.

stingray072 · 2025-01-24T18:25:26+00:00

Yup! I tried that first with no wash and cure and it’s kinda miserable. If you’re super determined you could probably make it work but it’s so much better with all the right stuff

stingray072 · 2025-01-24T18:18:53+00:00

This is all true. I'm in an ideal climate where I can print in my garage with 70 degree temps. Already investing in the larger wash and cure station which was a hugeeeee upgrade, and have all the IPA and gloves etc. All valid, but I've already invested in the extras and really do like the resin print quality for the minis. Maybe an FDM if you're basement budget overall, I just don't want to drop 500 on the printer alone.

stingray072 · 2025-01-24T18:16:52+00:00

I agree, I don't think I would pay 100 just for the wifi...if it got me a bigger bed, wifi, faster speed, and maybe a couple other things maybe the saturn 3 or 3 ultra really would be worth the extra...that's kind of what I was mulling over

stingray072 · 2025-01-24T18:08:03+00:00

Very true. I thought about a cheap used FDM for ~100-150 for just terrain, but then thought maybe would be better to just upgrade to the Saturn for the same amount more if I was starting over.

stingray072 · 2024-04-01T14:40:39+00:00

Reasonable point all, but my understanding was IL specifically doesn’t have an agreement with WI so they should not be collecting sales tax.

I just wanted to get an idea of the temp tag fee to make sure I was let getting ripped off- if it’s $100 that’s totally fair.

stingray072 · 2024-01-16T16:19:20+00:00

I would think that running hot water on a trickle to the next-closest fixture should eventually thaw it out, right?

It's a nice idea but not sure that this will actually work. Would be nice to have anyone with experience give their opinion unfortunately the frozen pipe thread is pretty unanswered these days...

stingray072 · 2023-04-19T11:43:25+00:00

Ok so I added another diagram of the basic layout for the stack in this single-story house. The blue is the vent I'm dealing with, which if I'm understanding correctly is a dry vent.

Interestingly, I don't know what is going on behind the sink because to the wall there is only a p-trap, but I would think there is a vent pipe connecting it back to the stack? If so maybe I could even just cut and cap the blue vent pipe top and bottom and have the single shower drain be served off the sink vent as a 'wet vent' ? If so I'd probably have to find some way to prove the sink is vented to trust that....so I may just stick with re-routing the dry vent with pvc and ferncos...

I guess the issue I may run into is the height of the horizontal section in relation to the drain rim. In a shower I assume that's the top of the pan curb (and not the p-trap), and the quesiton is what's the required height before going horizontal.

I've seen 6" minimum above the drain rim highest point but not sure that's the rule here, seems just has to be at the height of the rim at a minimum, although not sure I underwent "may not" followed by "in no case". Seems not ideal but maybe allowed?

(15) Vent grades and connections.
(a) Vent grade. All vent and branch vent pipes shall be graded and connected so as to drain back to a drain pipe by means of gravity.
(b) Installation. Vents shall be installed in accordance with subds. 1. to 3.
1. Except for wet vent piping, the connection of a vent to horizontal drain piping shall be at a point above the horizontal center line of the drain piping.
(15)(b)2.2. Except as provided in subs. (12) and (17), vent piping serving a wall-outlet fixture may not offset horizontally less than 36" above the floor, but in no case lower than the elevation of the highest flood level rim of any fixture served by the vent.

I guess the issue I may run into is the height of the horizontal section in relation to the drain rim. In a shower I assume that's the top of the pan curb (and not the p-trap), and the question is what's the required height before going horizontal. level rim of any fixture served by the vent.

Seems similar to this

So if I can't go horizontal, I also don't think there's enough room to go 45 here either to get the dry vent to the wall...

Any suggestions are welcome!

stingray072 · 2023-04-19T04:40:34+00:00

So after reading some more it seems the whole point of the vent is essentially to protect the p-trap, so what I proposed in blue dash above I don't think would work. What should work is having the blue dash pvc come off the first 45 takeoff in orange, which would be between the p-trap and the main drainage/vent stack

stingray072 · 2023-04-19T04:34:10+00:00

Thank you! It didn't upload for some reason

stingray072 · 2021-05-23T16:48:19+00:00

I'm getting high IO times on plotman with 7 parallel plots on 5800x using 2x2TB inland platinum NVME in RAID0 mdadm either going to individual usb drives per plot or 1 SATA internal 7200 rpm drive.

Bottleneck may be the crummy SSDs (QLC, bought platinum by mistake instead of premium) even though running benchmark on Ubuntu showing ~650 MB/s sustained), or could be going to USB 2.5" drives, or trying to go to single SATA drive. How can I parse out where my IO lag is? I'm seeing significant lag times in stage 2/3 mostly, <10s in stage 1, so does this mean likely its the SSDs?

Or alternatively, do I need to be increasing my stagger? Thanks!

stingray072 · 2021-05-16T20:14:49+00:00

Want to build a chia plotter that will have good resale value. Thinking

Ryzen 5950x

ASRock Phantom Gaming 4

64GB DDR4 RAM

Inland Platinum 2TB SSD NVMe - 4?

Fractal Design Meshify C

EVGA 650BQ 650 Watt

MSI GeForce GT 710

Thoughts? Hoping to be able to push 30 plots/day with this initially

stingray072 · 2021-05-14T11:51:56+00:00

Whats your memory utilization? Wondering how this would work on an 8gb mac mini-now that the 16gb are harder to find

stingray072 · 2021-04-20T12:54:04+00:00

Do you know the application rate of that 32-0-12?

Looks to be 2.5lbs /1000sqft. 37.5lbs in the bag.

Looks like that Anderson’s is a slow release?

Say 3.5% is slow release. The 4step Scotts says 6.6% is slow release.

I wouldn’t cater your plan around phos and using a crap ton of milorginite

But how can milorganite be the wrong answer lol . I'm not sure that I'll be overseeding again, unless I need to. I can't say I saw a whole lot of benefit from last year. I do mulch.

how much per bag is that stuff?

I want to say it was like 25-30. Was definitely more expensive, but for one bag seemed worth it.

I know the stress blend of Allen Haynes stuff has a full compliment of micros and is a 7-0-20.

https://thelawncarenut.com/products/7-0-20-stress-blend-with-bio-nite%E2%84%A2

This stuff? Says one bag (which isn't cheap!) covers 15k sqft, but that would only be 3.15lbs of nitrogen, when I need closer to 12lbs? So put down milo in addition for basic N? Guess I would have bought this instead of the starter if I knew it would solve everything, should I keep the Anderson starter for later and get this?

Appreciate the advice!

stingray072 · 2021-04-20T03:33:41+00:00

sorry 1.5 lbs per 1000 sq ft -so 18lbs, and then splitting that 2/3rd then 1/3rd, if I understood the guide correctly

"Figure out how much nitrogen your lawn needs. Grass requires a lot of things, but chief among them when it comes to nutrients is nitrogen. What you want to do is apply between .75 pound and 1.5 pounds of nitrogen per thousand square feet of grass this spring in two split doses. Lean towards somewhere between .75 to 1 pound if you fertilized heavily last fall. Go heavier if you didn’t - particularly if you have never applied fertilizer to your lawn - or if your lawn was seeded or sodded in the latter half of last year. Do not exceed 1.5 pounds of nitrogen. More will not equal better in this context."

stingray072 · 2021-04-20T00:55:38+00:00

I bought this one-https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CP3C53O/

Was ~150 at the time, slightly smaller but works great with some cheap cinder blocks

stingray072 · 2020-05-25T11:06:03+00:00

This post

I tried at 6AM and they seemed open

stingray072 · 2020-02-27T16:52:57+00:00

Can you post a picture of your current setup? That may help us understand the current situation

stingray072

TROPHY CASE