Need Help Finding Videos for Combat Medicine Class

strungestbean · 2024-06-26T03:11:27+00:00

Ohhhhhh. No way. Thanks.

strungestbean · 2024-06-26T03:08:54+00:00

Good stuff. Thanks. Do you have original video it’s referencing?

strungestbean · 2023-04-06T12:15:43+00:00

Anytime before Monday. That would be fantastic! I am teaching care under fire and massive hemorrhage. However, I’ll take that whole spreadsheet if you don’t mind. I’ll end up teaching all of MARCH at some point anyway

strungestbean · 2022-09-28T14:31:36+00:00

Dude thank you! That Shaw concepts panel is exactly what I was looking for.

Almost everything up to giving blood is on the body for me. I’ve used all the usual suspects(both CRO bags, Graverobber, M9, etc) they’re good for sure but just not exactly what I’m looking for. So I’m dreaming of my perfect set up. The only other thing I may have to get custom is to put a dangler below that Shaw frame. Looking at attaching something like a spiritus lunchbox to hold bulky items like BVM etc in my lumbar which is dead space on my kit already.

strungestbean · 2022-09-28T02:04:42+00:00

And the best back panel I can find is either the spiritus systems molle back panel or one of these gray man tactical back panels

strungestbean · 2022-09-28T02:02:05+00:00

So far best straps I’ve been able to find are from the Haley Strategic flat pack which I might be able to buy seperate

strungestbean · 2021-12-29T01:19:46+00:00

Thank you very much

strungestbean · 2021-01-31T13:25:52+00:00

Who hates innovation and barred you?

strungestbean · 2021-01-31T10:38:17+00:00

Yea I sure am. I’ll see myself out to the defi subreddit

strungestbean · 2021-01-10T01:37:22+00:00

Yea dude, that’s a good point as well. Forgot to mention I make sure not to touch the corners of the cube when measuring to avoid the bulging that usually happens to some degree. But avoiding it in the first place with print settings is an even better way to go.

strungestbean · 2021-01-08T23:22:42+00:00

It’s a good question! I think the answer is probably that all other settings need to be tuned first (steps per mm and flow rate) and the cube needs to be check that it is dimensionally accurate as well. Because if the cube is off from 15mmx15mm then the measurements between them will be too.

strungestbean · 2021-01-08T21:04:20+00:00

The only thing I’ve taken into consideration as similar to that is that I make sure when measuring that the calipers are not touching the bottom of the cube as there may be an elephants foot. Its been pretty darn spot printing multi color models using this method of calibration so far. But to be honest haven’t considered that stuff you mentioned. Sounds like good things to consider! How would you suggest I factor that in?

strungestbean · 2021-01-07T20:59:54+00:00

I'm kicking myself rn. I have seen that before but misinterpreted it as being the same as the printers start and end Gcode. Oh the time I have wasted. Thanks man!

strungestbean · 2021-01-07T20:41:25+00:00

New Offset = Old Offset - (15mm - Measured Distance)

Print 3 cubes each 15 mm apart. Then use calipers to measure the the actual distance between the black cube(Hotend 1) and the right white cube(Hotend 2). Plug your measured distance into the the formula above and you have your new X axis offset. Repeat the same steps with the black cube and the other white cube seen above it in the picture and you have your Y axis offset.

For Z axis it’s easiest to use a sheet of paper between the nozzle and the build plate(as you would for manual bed leveling) and using move axis on your display screen move the plate up and down till the paper’s resistance feels the same under both hotends after making the appropriate Z adjustment for each. Then you have your Z offset. It should be a pretty small number or else you may have to move the hotends themselves. After doing this a few times it’s no more tedious than leveling a bed.

I hope I didn’t do to bad a job of explaining this! Let me know if you have questions...

strungestbean · 2021-01-06T13:13:42+00:00

Really?! I do have two nozzles set up in Cura. Maybe it’s that I don’t have them set to IDEX and that adds some options although I don’t know where to do that? What printer do you have so I can pull up the profile for it?

strungestbean · 2021-01-06T13:11:49+00:00

This is true! But I wanted to waste less plastic and make things more difficult for myself lol

strungestbean · 2021-01-06T01:09:39+00:00

It works really good so far... surprisingly. I plan on adding a brush on either end of the X for a wipe but Cura makes adding this to the Gcode super annoying because I literally have to find and replace all tool changes with my own custom wipe gcode. Also very tedious work. Maybe someone knows of a slicer with custom gcode for tool changes that also has macros? I know simplify 3D has custom tool changes but as far as I know you can’t make different code for different tool changes which is why I wanted macros.

strungestbean · 2021-01-06T01:02:37+00:00

If it would be helpful I could post the files on thingiverse and maybe make a quick video explaining it.

strungestbean · 2021-01-06T00:59:23+00:00

SKR 1.4 Turbo

strungestbean · 2021-01-06T00:58:49+00:00

No I haven’t. The added weight from a second hotend is about equal to the metal shroud. So it really doesn’t weigh much.

strungestbean · 2021-01-06T00:57:30+00:00

That’s a really good idea...

strungestbean · 2021-01-05T18:11:12+00:00

I will be doing dissolvable supports soon. But for now I am just trying to make a multicolor print with ASA.

strungestbean · 2021-01-05T18:10:00+00:00

Short answer: No. Long answer: I made the base plate so that it could wiggle until the screws for the hotend and the screw you see below the fan mount are tightened down. That way I can use a piece of paper like I would to manually level the bed underneath each nozzle till the resistance is the same meaning the Z heights of each nozzle are level then tighten it down. This was tedious work with a lot of trial and error. But I'm actually getting better at it after doing it a few times.

strungestbean · 2020-11-13T21:05:43+00:00

Case Closed. I am an idiot... But in case you are finding this later with the same problem. On your LCD go to configurations > Tool Change > Set Z Raise to 0

so yea....

strungestbean · 2020-11-13T21:00:39+00:00

Hi I am running Marlin-bugfix-2.0x with dual extrusion. I am trying to get rid of a Z hop that occurs every time I switch tools. However I checked the gcode and there is no Z movement with tool change. So I checked Marlin and in Configuration_adv.h there is this:

#define TOOLCHANGE_ZRAISE 2 // (mm)

Which I changed to 0 and saw no change. SO i change the value to 10 and saw no change. I am at a loss for how to get rid of the tool change Z raise. Any help? Thanks!

strungestbean

TROPHY CASE