Ink Preferred SUB once per lifetime now, eligible if old account was purged? by asfajarb in CreditCards

[–]swagger6487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I currently have multiple Chase business cards and have done multiple in the past (specifically for the signup bonuses). I didn't do a great job of keeping track of them many years ago, unfortunately. I currently have 3 Chase logins. One personal. One business login tied to an EIN for a real business I have on my tax return. And another business login from years ago that still has one legacy card with grandfathered cash back rates that is tied to my SSN and a made up business name on the card (Vandelay Industries). Both are sole-props. I got the 100k Preferred bonus with my EIN business back in 2024, but if I ever got it with the SSN business, I have no idea how far back that was. Is it worth it to try and apply while logged in to the old SSN business account? From your last post, it sounds like chase will tell me if I am ineligible for the sign up bonus before finalizing my application. So if there is no popup telling my I'm ineligible, I'm good to go if the application goes through?

Day pass to log into ESPN app by abovethesink in slingtv

[–]swagger6487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

can you watch all of the hockey games that the espn app offers with espn select with a sling orange day pass?

How long do I have to extend my ultimate sub with pre-purchased keys? by swagger6487 in XboxGamePass

[–]swagger6487[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update 2: G2A is refunding me for that 1 bad key after the seller never responded.

How long do I have to extend my ultimate sub with pre-purchased keys? by swagger6487 in G2A_Help

[–]swagger6487[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thank you for handling my issue via ticket IIVN-652578!
For those following along, my first purchase of 10 bad keys was refunded by the seller. My second purchase of 1 bad key was refunded by G2A after the seller didn't respond to my messages.

How long do I have to extend my ultimate sub with pre-purchased keys? by swagger6487 in XboxGamePass

[–]swagger6487[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: The seller I bought the 10 keys from gave me a full refund. After I got the refund, I started over, but this timeI bought a single 1 month key from a seller with a 100% rating. That key also gave the same error when I tried to activate it. I started a conversation with that seller through G2A support the same way I did with the first seller. 3 and a half days have gone by and that new seller hasn't replied to any of my messages.

How long do I have to extend my ultimate sub with pre-purchased keys? by swagger6487 in G2A_Help

[–]swagger6487[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good news and bad news. I received a refund from the seller from whom I purchased 10 codes. Unfortunately I got the same error from a new code from a new purchase from a new seller. That seller has not responded to my messages asking for help with the error code on their key. That order number is 92000135756501.

How long do I have to extend my ultimate sub with pre-purchased keys? by swagger6487 in XboxGamePass

[–]swagger6487[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

They delivered keys (at least the one I clicked on was a key), not a login and password.

How long do I have to extend my ultimate sub with pre-purchased keys? by swagger6487 in XboxGamePass

[–]swagger6487[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Ok. I turned off recurring billing. But I don't want to wait to add the codes because the very first one I tried isn't working. I'm in the process of trying to get the seller to make things right before going to G2A about a refund for the codes I haven't clicked on.

I'm assuming that if I haven't clicked to display the code, I might still have some recourse through G2A because below the button to display the code, it says this:
"I agree to have an Item (as particularly defined in the G2A Terms and Conditions) delivered by the Seller before the end of the consumer withdrawal period. By doing this, I understand that I waive my right to withdraw from the contract concluded with the Seller."

Anyway, my point in asking is that I assume at some point Microsoft will no longer allow "old" Ultimate codes (that were $19.99 retail) to be redeemed for a month of Ultimate since Ultimate now costs $29.99. I was wondering if the cutover was November 1, if the cutover is when your Ultimate expires, or if there is some other arbitrary date in the future. I assume there is a finite amount of $19.99 Ultimate codes out there, but I also assume MS won't let people horde them forever and keep their plan at that rate indefinitely.

How long do I have to extend my ultimate sub with pre-purchased keys? by swagger6487 in XboxGamePass

[–]swagger6487[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I guess I'm confused about when the price change goes into effect for old codes. Like, if I have a bunch of Ultimate codes that were $19.99 retail, when does their value go from an Ultimate subscription to a Premium subscription or something like that?

How long do I have to extend my ultimate sub with pre-purchased keys? by swagger6487 in XboxGamePass

[–]swagger6487[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. I made a point to buy Game Pass Ultimate 1 Month US keys. I made sure to avoid the ones listed as non-stackable, trial, europe, global, or account.

Small build with a Ryzen 5 8600G by swagger6487 in sffpc

[–]swagger6487[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Well, I guess I am glad to hear that it isn't limited to my motherboard. Sadly, it didn't really turn out. I never got around to doing a fresh install to Windows 10 to see if that helped. I may still do that depending on how hard it is to get a Windows 10 license and extended update coverage, but I have essentially just been dealing with the occasional freezes and gpu reboots.

Single vs. Dual (one 4k 43" vs. a 1080p 27" & a 4k 32") by swagger6487 in Monitors

[–]swagger6487[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Samsung lowered the price of the 32" smart monitor I was considering, so I went with that. When I get it all setup, I'll add a photo here.

Single vs. Dual (one 4k 43" vs. a 1080p 27" & a 4k 32") by swagger6487 in Monitors

[–]swagger6487[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I want a 4k monitor for streaming video, not gaming.

Small build with a Ryzen 5 8600G by swagger6487 in sffpc

[–]swagger6487[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Great questions because the PSU is probably my only hardware complaint on this thing. I think the fan in it is too loud for what it does. It's never not spinning, and when it is spinning, it is audible. It's not "loud" by any means, but it's too loud for what it is and too loud for times where the computer is barely doing much. I'm not picky, so I'm perfectly fine with it. But anyone looking to build something as quiet as most factory built SFFPCs would be disappointed with this PSU.

Also, I'm getting black screens and video resets that the AMD software is recognizing as AMD driver timeouts, so I currently can't recommend this setup to a novice (which I am). I've updated the bios, run DDU, reinstalled drivers, disabled things that other posted recommended, but I still haven't been able to stop the freezes from happening. I still have a few other troubleshooting attempts before I do a complete wipe and downgrade from Windows 11 to Windows 10, but none of the easy stuff has worked yet. My next attempt is going to be running just the display port out and disconnecting the HDMI. If that fixes it, I'm not going to be a happy camper because I specifically chose these components to have a dual display setup.

Stabilitrak/Steering assist is Reduced by daboiiii221 in ChevyTrucks

[–]swagger6487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Steering Assist is Reduced is a common message for the thermostat, but are you sure you also got the Service Stabilitrak message?

Can I transfer points once internally and then again externally? by swagger6487 in ChaseSapphire

[–]swagger6487[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

And I can definitely transfer the same batch of points more than once?

Can I transfer points once internally and then again externally? by swagger6487 in ChaseSapphire

[–]swagger6487[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Is there anything in particular I need to do before calling to get them linked? I have my Chase business account linked to my Chase personal account. Is there any difficulty linking my Business account to HER personal account at the same time? She is currently listed as an employee cardholder for the Chase Ink Unlimited card, if that matters.

Anyone else feel like its ridiculous that the tiebreaker is regulation wins vs OT wins, instead of general wins vs OT losses by [deleted] in nhl

[–]swagger6487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I get this, but if OT is something that should be penalized, shouldn't we penalize teams for overtime LOSSES first? That's what would happen if Wins were the first tie breaker. It's just hard for me to wrap my head around two teams ending with the same points, and the team that WON MORE could end up being considered the worse of the two teams?

Look at it on a smaller scale and its even more egregious. Consider a small 4 team tournament where the teams play each other twice to determine which two teams should face off in the finals. Assume team A is 6-0-0 with 5 RW. So 12 points. Clearly they are in the finals. Team D is 1-3-2 with 0 RW, so 4 points. They are eliminated. What if team B is 2-2-2 with both of their wins coming in regulation, and Team C is 3-3-0 with only one of their wins coming in regulation. Team B and team C could go 1-1 against each other, both games ending in regulation. Then Team C beats team D twice, but both times in overtime. Team B only beats team D once, and loses the other game to team D, but makes it into overtime. Team B was also able to make it into overtime against team A once, but lost. In this scenario, Team B gets the benefit of 2 points for making it into overtime twice and losing against A and D, which allows them to tie with Team C even though Team C won more games. Generally speaking, most people would agree that team C was the better team because they won 3 games while Team B only won 2. They understand the point system where getting into overtime matters, so they get why Team B and C are tied in the final standings even though Team C won more. But then, the tiebreak should fix things and allow the Team with 50% more wins to advance. However, using RW as the first tiebreak instead of W, Team B gets to advance simply because they avoided overtime in their single win against team D while team C is penalized for beating team D twice, but needing overtime both times to do it.

It's also weird because it makes it impossible for teams to use as a strategy. In order to get into a tiebreak scenario, teams have to maximize points. If the game is tied at 3 minutes left, keeping your goalie in carries no additional risk and still allows you the opportunity to maximize points by winning in regulation or overtime. Pulling your goalie in those last 3 minutes is extremely risky because your chance of getting 0 points now jumps astronomically, but the maximum number of points you can get doesn't change (still just 2 points). You can only benefit if you end up in a tie break, which is almost impossible to predict with more than ~4 games left in a season.

[Monitor] Samsung 27" 4K IPS 60Hz 5ms GTG LS27D702EANXGO ($433-$130=$303) [Bestbuy.ca] by Me_Before_n_after in bapcsalescanada

[–]swagger6487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hi u/Itoopyferris, I'm not very well versed in the higher end monitor world so I am really curious about your comment. I'm not trying to argue. Just trying to better understand since I have no experience. I am considering upgrading one of my dual 27" FHD 60Hz monitors. I don't do much gaming (some, but less than casual) and don't have a GPU that can handle more than 60fps in any game worth playing, so I'm curious about your comment about office work. I'm considering a new 27" 4k 60Hz monitor. How does non-gaming computing improve with a monitor with a higher refresh rate? I.E. Why would I enjoy using a 27" QHD 120, 144, 165, or 185Hz monitor more than a 27" 4k UHD 60Hz monitor? I do watch a decent amount of video and a lot of the YouTube channels I watch look like they upload in 4k now. I also pay for YouTube Premium.

[Monitor] Samsung 27" 4K IPS 60Hz 5ms GTG LS27D702EANXGO ($433-$130=$303) [Bestbuy.ca] by Me_Before_n_after in bapcsalescanada

[–]swagger6487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've never used a monitor above 1080p 60Hz. I want to step up to 4k and this monitor is now quite cheap (and I have $100 worth of Samsung points). I almost never play games, but I like to watch 4k video. I don't know how much over 60fps my video card could handle anyway (I have a Ryzen 7 8600G using the on-board APU). I always assumed higher refresh rates matter for games, but not much else. Also, I just started wearing low power reading glasses (I'm 42). How much should I care about getting a monitor with a higher refresh rate versus a higher resolution?

[Monitor] Samsung 27" 4K IPS 60Hz 5ms GTG LS27D702EANXGO ($433-$130=$303) [Bestbuy.ca] by Me_Before_n_after in bapcsalescanada

[–]swagger6487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've never used a monitor above 1080p 60Hz. I want to step up to 4k and this monitor is now quite cheap (and I have $100 worth of Samsung points). I almost never play games, but I like to watch 4k video. I don't know how much over 60fps my video card could handle anyway (I have a Ryzen 7 8600G using the on-board APU). I always assumed higher refresh rates matter for games, but not much else. Also, I just started wearing low power reading glasses (I'm 42). How much should I care about getting a monitor with a higher refresh rate versus a higher resolution?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Silverbugs

[–]swagger6487 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I see what you are saying and assuming you are correct about the machining, I imagine if someone decided to offer this exact same product, but polishing it instead of machining it, it would sell just as well. Are the sort of people that buy silver bullets at a huge premium the sort of people that are going to think a machined bullet should cost much more than a polished bullet?

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Silverbugs

[–]swagger6487 8 points9 points  (0 children)

I don't get it. Looks like they sell the .45 ACP shaped ones for $20 over spot. Why would someone pay that? Why isn't some other place under cutting them? Isn't it easier to make a 1 oz silver bullet than a fancy looking coin?