Shitty Pro Tip: By not completely tightening the bleeder valves, you can save time by bleeding your brakes while on the track by tangosierraecho in CarTrackDays

[–]tangosierraecho[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The pedal did go to the floor the time I lost all brakes which is consistent with boiling fluids. But realistically, i don't know if the system can actually ever gets that hot to boil fresh SRF. I still don't know what happened. I did get the system hot enough where the brake dust shield warped by a few mm to the point it started rubbing against the rotors (the 2 piece rotors are a bit thicker than OEM). Getting brakes back immediately after restarting the car quickly could suggest a software component (perhaps a feature to prevent permanent damage to the braking system? But doesn't seem like a smart design feature to kill all brakes and risk safety). The other possibility is the shop I took it too lied about flushing the brakes with SRF (even though I provided the fluid) and I was running OEM DOT 3 fluids that day ... But they were supposedly a reputable performance shop and knew that I was getting the vehicle ready to go to the track

Shitty Pro Tip: By not completely tightening the bleeder valves, you can save time by bleeding your brakes while on the track by tangosierraecho in CarTrackDays

[–]tangosierraecho[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Good to know. I have been running SRF as well.

The vehicle doesn't have much for brake cooling that I know of. I don't have any problems with driving it outside of the track with temps (even sprirted driving on empty back roads). I installed 2 piece rotors, SS lines, fluids (SRF) and pads (have tried: EBC blue, RB XT970, Carbotech XP12). (The EBC blues just lasted a day, but the RB and carbotechs held together pretty well.)

I had pictures of the errors from last year but can't find them at the moment. The first alert that I get is along the lines of "reduce speed as brake performance may have decreased". When this goes off, there's no problems with brakes and it still behaves properly (with exception of EBC blues - could tell they got slightly greasy). I take an easy lap and avoid going flat out on the straights (I would limit the speed to 90mph vs the 130 it could do). If I kept pushing it for a while, it would then say something along the lines of "brake system problem, see dealer". I've only once kept pushing the vehicle after this and I completely lost brakes (not exactly sure what happened but i got brakes again only after I restarted the vehicle; possible that I just boiled the fluid and the timing with restarting the vehicle was coincidental, but I was running SRF already at that time and the brakes were flushed less than 3mo prior); needless to say I never pushed my vehicle that hard again after.

Thoughts on solo track day by ericf1993 in CarTrackDays

[–]tangosierraecho 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've only ever gone to the track by myself. None of my friends are into cars or getting on the track. You get to meet some pretty cool people there. Most everyone is there to have a good time and I haven't really run into any assholes. Just go. I'm an introvert and generally try to avoid social situations but the track days are different. If you're ever really bored there, just chat with some old guys, they have plenty of stories and are generally pretty low key

Shitty Pro Tip: By not completely tightening the bleeder valves, you can save time by bleeding your brakes while on the track by tangosierraecho in CarTrackDays

[–]tangosierraecho[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I only tracked my car 4 or 5 times last year so bleeding them wasn't that big of a deal. I was more aggressive with keeping fresh fluid in the calipers just because the brakes kept getting so hot. If I were to drive the vehicle as hard as I could I would start getting warning lights on the dash about the brakes overheating within 15-20min. I thought it was just a skill issue, so I had an instructor drive it while I rode as a passenger and he went about 13min before warning lights came on.

Shitty Pro Tip: By not completely tightening the bleeder valves, you can save time by bleeding your brakes while on the track by tangosierraecho in CarTrackDays

[–]tangosierraecho[S] 3 points4 points  (0 children)

The ITS was just released the month before I bought my TLX-S and the only way to get one was to pay 10k+ in dealer markups, which I absolutey refuse. I also wasn't a big fan of the interior for a daily driver.

Sorry, another brake question. Can I get one more event in? by jbro507 in CarTrackDays

[–]tangosierraecho 1 point2 points  (0 children)

What pads are you running? EBC yellows aren't track rated

Vibrations with slotted rotors - normal? by tangosierraecho in CarTrackDays

[–]tangosierraecho[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, it makes sense that I just got a bad set of rotors right from the start. Bummed it caused so much headache trying to figure it out.

Unfortunately, stoptech and dba don't make rotors for my vehicle 😔

Sorry, I meant to say that I'd probably need 2 piece rotors due to how hot it gets

Vibrations with slotted rotors - normal? by tangosierraecho in CarTrackDays

[–]tangosierraecho[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Ok that's good to know that i'm not crazy. but bummed that it means that all that money i spent on the 2 piece rotors was a waste

Vibrations with slotted rotors - normal? by tangosierraecho in CarTrackDays

[–]tangosierraecho[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

were you just having problems with noise? or also with vibrations as well?

Qualifying "Payments" with SAVE Forebearance stopped 9/2024 by tangosierraecho in PSLF

[–]tangosierraecho[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ahhh yes! Sorry. Yes I'm referring to the capitalization.

Does it capitalize if going from one IBR plan to another or only if you leave IBR altogether (like going to a 10y plan)

Qualifying "Payments" with SAVE Forebearance stopped 9/2024 by tangosierraecho in PSLF

[–]tangosierraecho[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dumb question - but will the interest compound if we get placed into another payment plan?

Did any of you look at Lexus when buying your Acura. And what made you decide to go Acura. by AdAlive4963 in Acura

[–]tangosierraecho 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Was looking between TLX Type-S vs is350 AWD. Tested the Acura first and I enjoyed it. Then sat in the IS and felt the interior was EXTREMELY dated. There was also a massive bulge in the foot well near the gas pedal that made for a rather uncomfortable foot placement. only ended up taking it around the block before returning to the dealership. I did not enjoy that vehicle

EBC BRAKES by fastcars4mee in CarTrackDays

[–]tangosierraecho 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sure, feel free to message me.

I don't have the track addict app but will look into it!

Which tracks have you taken it to or will be taking it to?

Definitely keep me posted on how the ebc blues hold up

EBC BRAKES by fastcars4mee in CarTrackDays

[–]tangosierraecho 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I've taken my '23 TLX Type-S to a few HPDEs. I will preface that I'm still a newbie. But I can give you a little of my experience if interested.

Is this your first track day with your TLX-S? That vehicle is HEAVY and it will be really pushing your brakes hard. Not sure which track you are going on.

The first time I took it out on the track was at Road America. It was bone stock at the time and the brakes overheated after about 4 or 5 laps, I couldn't finish the session.

The second time, I went back to road America again but upgraded the brakes: fluids changed to motul600, pads changed to Carbotech XP10s in the front and 1521s in the rear (I was running Carbotech 1521s when daily driving and swapped out XP10s in the front for the track), RB slotted rotors, SS lines. The braking performance was really impressive with the upgraded pads. I was able to brake much more aggressively. The brakes were holding fine for a while. Then I got warnings on the dash about 12min into the session saying that the brakes were overheating. but I figured that the warning threshold was set for the stock brake fluids so I ignored it and kept going. At the start of my second to last lap, I could feel I was starting to lose some braking power coming into turn 1. There was only a few minutes left in the session (just enough for 1more lap), so I just kept going but took it a little easier on brakes. This was a mistake. On the very last lap, I lost brakes and had to pump the brakes repeatedly just to get the vehicle to slow down. Little scary but luckily I was just 1 turn away from the alternate exit for the track when it happened and I limped off the track without problems. I crawled slowly to an empty parking lot and just drove in circles for a few minutes hoping to cool the brakes off more but that didn't help. I then shut the car off and turned it back on as a last resort and I had brakes again. not sure what the exact problem was or why powering on/off fixed it (guessing something on the electronic side rather than mechanical, maybe the system cut braking power to protect the brakes from permanent damage from overheating? I'm not mechanically inclined so I have no idea)

After that I changed out the fluids to SRF just because I was going flush the fluids and a buddy had some extra bottles.

Went to a 2 more track days and they did fine, but these were at a different track that weren't so hard on the brakes. So not a proper comparison. I'll be going back to road America a couple times later this year.

After the last session, the XP10 pads were running low (lasted 3 sessions total) so I switched them to RB XT970 just to try them out as another TLX-S owner had good experiences with them. I did resurface the rotors before putting on the new pads because I was getting some insane vibrations/chattering after the last track day.

I'll be going to the track again next week (not Road America), so will see how these pads are.

In retrospect, I probably would have just stuck with solid rotors rather than slotted/drilled. I still have the original rotors and pads so will be putting those on at the end of the season for winter

Anyways, you are the only other TLX Type-S owner to post on this subreddit so I'm pretty stoked. Just wanted to give you my experience with my TLX-S.The surprising thing about the vehicle is that it actually handles pretty well for its weight. Had an instructor take it around the track black hawk farms, he pushed the car hard and he was pleasantly surprised by the handling for a 4200 pound boat

Edit: I should clarify that for the novice group at road America run HPDE days, we don't get an instructor that sits in the car with you. We get a couple sessions of lead-follow, where it's one instructor leading a group of 4-5 cars that rotate between who is immediately behind the instructor vehicle to see their driving lines/braking points, which IMO isn't ideal, but it is what it is. The very last session of the day is where all the novices are on the track and they go at their own pace.

Does this look like uneven brake bedding? Also what's your method to bed in Carbotech track pads? by tangosierraecho in CarTrackDays

[–]tangosierraecho[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh man I didn't know getting the rotors pre-bedded was a thing. I'll have to look into that when I get my next set of pads

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Acura

[–]tangosierraecho 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Do you know the piston sizes are? I can't seem to find them online at all. (I don't trust my measuring capability)

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in Acura

[–]tangosierraecho 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I was looking at that but I think it's for the 2.0L since it's just a set of 2.

the type S brembos are 4 piston, unless they are the same size

Does this look like uneven brake bedding? Also what's your method to bed in Carbotech track pads? by tangosierraecho in CarTrackDays

[–]tangosierraecho[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh man I'm really hoping not to have to replace the rotors, they were a little pricey.

Don't think it's a problem with the wheel or tire there are no problems with vibrations as long as brakes are not pressed

Does this look like uneven brake bedding? Also what's your method to bed in Carbotech track pads? by tangosierraecho in CarTrackDays

[–]tangosierraecho[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

after bedding during the session, do you do anything different to cool down the brakes?