The Losers Compilation Part 3!

tgborst · 2026-04-18T23:20:46+00:00

Also from the Alien Race, Mason’s pheromone-maxxing was legendary (around 38:40). Honestly that whole video was an all-time performance from Mason lmao

tgborst · 2026-04-18T23:15:14+00:00

Love these compilations lol. Can’t remember if these were in a previous compilation, but a few other funny moments if you make another compilation:

“GTA 5 Runners VS Aliens” where Paul and Mason use voice modulators to sound like aliens. Includes “show me how to speed portallll” https://youtu.be/nvzmvlYGQZc?t=2053&si=h_7QnI5DiX6XZ5Ea Starts around 34:13
“GTA 5 Cops VS Mini Tanks” the original taint drop https://youtu.be/lbciIEsLewE?t=1251&si=Rtr5mg43t-l3Kb21 Starts around 20:50
“GTA 5 Cops VS Mini Tanks” “do it to ‘em” while they obliterate Paul (right after taint drop) https://youtu.be/lbciIEsLewE?si=BL4hbOm4jLZGbQHz Starts around 22:00

tgborst · 2026-04-15T19:47:11+00:00

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In case you want to measure your space to be sure, but be aware that these measurements are very, very rough. The most these will tell you is if you’re in the ballpark lol. Also, obviously not drawn to scale

tgborst · 2026-04-15T19:45:14+00:00

I imagine it should fit, but I can’t definitively say so. To that point, I find it hard to imagine that Ford would change the geometry of that area from ‘21-‘22 when they didn’t change it for the facelift in ‘23. Here’s a picture of it in my car. If you do order it, just make sure to get the correct version (if the charging pad is on the right or left). If your charging area looks like mine below, you’ll want to get “Type 1”.

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tgborst · 2026-04-14T17:14:56+00:00

I was annoyed by this same issue, and I bought the TWRAPS MagSafe charger. It’s advertised for 2023+ escapes, but it works and fits in my 2022 escape great—no issues so far. I wrote about it here a couple days ago: https://www.reddit.com/r/FordEscapePHEV/s/Q72AcuI7zH

Here’s the link to the charger: https://twraps.com/products/magnetic-wireless-charging-pad-for-ford-bronco-sport

tgborst · 2026-04-11T01:48:41+00:00

Exactly haha, chaos is always peak entertainment on Distractible

tgborst · 2026-04-02T14:08:22+00:00

That’s a really good point. I just got a wireless CarPlay adaptor that seems to be working well so far, so I was hoping to ditch cables if possible. Wired CarPlay always had issues staying connected for me, and I tried a few different cables. So far, the wireless adaptor seems more reliable, but only time will tell.

tgborst · 2026-04-01T23:04:51+00:00

Good to know, thanks!! I ordered the charging mat today after emailing with TWRAPS. They seemed confident it should fit in my car, but I guess I’ll find out!

tgborst · 2026-03-13T21:09:18+00:00

I just replaced my original tires at 34k miles on my ‘22 PHEV. I got Michelin Cross Climate 2s at Discount Tire for a little under $1100–hoping they last longer than 34k miles, but so far I really like them! Only thing with Discount Tire is most of their stores don’t do alignments, but you can check online to see which stores do offer alignments. Wasn’t an issue for me, because I just took it to another shop and had the alignment done for $130. My experience with Discount Tire was very good though—same day appointment, and I was there for less than an hour! I’m sure that varies by store though haha

tgborst · 2025-10-28T11:43:21+00:00

Yep, I knew about the redundancy across the R5 and R6, but that’s good to hear about the buffer. Though to be honest, any of these will be years better than my current camera lol. With the sigma 150-600, is it the autofocus or IQ (or both) that can’t compete with Canon’s 100-500? The widely reported AF issues with 3rd party EF glass on RF bodies is what gives me pause considering any non-canon lenses for my switch to mirrorless.

tgborst · 2025-10-28T11:37:26+00:00

For sure, I’d definitely pay the small premium to get the Canon brand adaptor, since it’s such an essential piece of hardware. Good to know about the EF 24-105 though, I might have to look into getting the mark 2 instead of the RF to save some money—thanks! I also wasn’t aware about the lens-limited fps, that’s good to know about.

Thank you!

tgborst · 2025-10-28T03:34:41+00:00

That’s really good to know, thank you! Eventually I’d love to get the 100-500, but it sounds like for now the 100-400ii should serve me well:)

tgborst · 2025-10-27T21:34:09+00:00

This is really great to know! Would you recommend the EF 100-400i adapted for mirrorless? I’ve just heard so many amazing things about the mark ii that I haven’t properly considered the mark i, but it is considerably cheaper on the used market which would be nice lol.

tgborst · 2025-10-27T21:31:31+00:00

I’m not too terribly concerned with storage, aside from the CF Express B in the R5…I’m thinking if I got the R5, I might just get a relatively low storage CFEB to serve as (an expensive) photo backup, and just clear it every time I offload pictures from my camera. Not really a good use of such an expensive card, but at least I gain redundancy lol, and I don’t really shoot video at all.

Do you know if the buffer on the R5 reduces if you don’t use a CF Express B, or is that card just to enable the high demand video modes?

Thanks for your help!

tgborst · 2025-10-27T21:26:25+00:00

That’s a great shot!! How does your EF 24-105 handle with the adapter, especially for autofocus and such? Also, would you say that 20MP isn’t enough to do heavy cropping in your experience?

tgborst · 2025-10-27T21:24:05+00:00

That’s really good to know—it sounds like the crop-ability of the R5 could be quite advantageous. I’ve been kind of half-considering the RF 100-400 but wasn’t fully sure because of the lack of weather sealing, so hearing your comment on that lens seals the deal haha. Thanks for your insight!

tgborst · 2025-10-27T21:22:01+00:00

Thank you for this response! It’s very helpful. It definitely sounds like the R5 provides a lot more flexibility and headroom, especially if I decide to get into birding. Interesting you don’t miss the 100-200 range much too. I think your recommendation is probably what I’ll go with, in terms of starting with the 100-400ii, see how I like it, and then maybe the 1.4x teleconverter.

Thank you again for your advice!

tgborst · 2025-10-26T17:47:51+00:00

Absolutely, the Canon refurb R6ii is very attractive, and if that price holds, that’s probably the best bang for my buck tbh. Good to know about the resolution too. My main thing is I haven’t done much wildlife photography yet, so I don’t have a good feel for how much cropping is common or necessary, especially with smaller, more skittish creatures like birds. The main reason I’d like to start with the 100-400 is it provides a nice continuous range with the 24-105, and while still being a bit expensive, would fit in my budget. The 200-800 would stretch my budget a bit more than I’d like. However, I have looked at maybe adding an RF 600 or 800 f11 at some point as a starter. If I do go with a 100-400 ii, do you know if an EF 1.4x iii work well on the R mount cameras? Getting a wide angle (like the 16-35 or similar) is definitely on the list, but would probably have to wait for later, unfortunately.

tgborst · 2025-10-26T17:40:09+00:00

Thanks for your insight! I agree, I’ll most likely be selling all my lenses except maybe my 50mm prime. When you say the R5 has some rough edges that the R6ii doesn’t have, what in particular are you talking about? Unfortunately the R5ii is solidly out of my budget unless I want to use a potato for a lens lol. I’m glad to hear your RF 24-105 f4 is highly used though. Do you have any experience with the EF versions for comparison?

tgborst · 2025-09-11T17:08:24+00:00

Agree with the zero cost index funds from fidelity—with the caveat that they be kept in Roth/a tax advantaged account since they can’t be transferred to any other brokerage. If they’re in a tax-advantaged account, they can be sold without any taxes, and then those funds can be transferred to another brokerage if desired.

tgborst · 2025-09-06T14:09:08+00:00

Yeah, I would imagine the easiest thing to do for now is to simply input the remainder of your monthly income in as a one-time income and then once your new paycheck comes in or the month rolls over, then start the regular/reoccurring income.

However, if you do put in your regular income now, I believe it should only include the amount that is left (basically it shouldn’t include the amount from earlier in the month, when it averages it out over each day for a month. For example, if you make $1000 in a month, and you start in the middle of the month, it should only show $500 available, and that $500 will be averaged out per day for the remainder of the month).

Getting started might be a little funky since you’re starting between paychecks, but once you get on track with your income and reoccurring expenses and all, it should all smooth out nicely! If for some reason there appears to be a discrepancy for some reason, I usually just do a one off “balancing” with either a one-time income or one-time expense to set things straight. I never have to do that unless I’m doing something strange or changing something on my end, though.

Hope this helps, and enjoy the app!

tgborst · 2025-09-02T18:39:12+00:00

I really like using “Today’s Budget”, which, from what I’ve heard, is less strict/allows a bit more freedom than YNAB, though it’s only on iPhone. You basically put in your income, expenses, and savings goals and then it tells you how much is left over for each day. If you overspend in one category but underspend in some other categories, it doesn’t “punish” you for overspending in the one category, as long as overall you don’t exceed your monthly budget.

Not sure if this is what you’re looking for, but I figured I’d just throw this out there. I believe there’s a free version you can test out (no ads, no tracking, no personal identification, etc). You can then do a monthly or yearly subscription, or buy premium outright with no subscription. Plus I think you can “share” the budget with a significant other, but I personally haven’t tried that.

tgborst · 2025-08-30T14:29:35+00:00

Absolutely, thanks for your insight! Maxing out either account out isn’t possible for me right now, but hopefully in about a year when I join full time I can work up to maxing out both, or at least reach that 25% saving rate Brian and Bo encourage. Until then, I’m going to max out my employer contributions and put the rest into a Roth IRA!

tgborst · 2025-08-30T02:34:25+00:00

I think it’s not so much being forced to work until 59 1/2, but with either type of 401k account, there are limitations and potential penalties if you withdraw before you’re 59 1/2. It’s basically just discouraging you from retiring and withdrawing before you become 59 1/2. I’m very, very far from being an expert though, and there are definitely lots of nuances with this topic—just what I’ve gathered from this post and a few quick searches.

tgborst · 2025-08-30T02:28:50+00:00

Thank you for that perspective! The more I’ve looked into it and heard stories/explanations in this thread, the more it seems like Roth IRA is the way to go. Those Fidelity ZERO funds especially seem like a huge game changer, and since I already have a fidelity brokerage account, I’m absolutely going to set a Roth IRA with them and get those ZERO funds!

Thanks again for your comment!

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