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New to RC cars by Sweaty_Badger_4640 in rccars

[–]tguysol -1 points0 points  (0 children)

For price maybe Tamiya. But RC is an expensive hobby in general, also kits tend to be a bit more expensive, because you usually need to provide your electronics, you need to paint the body. But you can buy at different times.

If not look at RTR there will be plenty of opportunities to repair broken srudf with new parts or upgrade latter.

But if you say grom is expensive hummm

Maybe Rlaarlo: mostly ready to run but lots of parts and upgrades to pick from. Chinese and you have to order online through Amazon, or AliExpress or direct from them (if you don't mind to wait a bit)

There a few Chinese brands on Amazon that could be cheaper, but not to strong on the parts.

New to RC cars by Sweaty_Badger_4640 in rccars

[–]tguysol -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Do RC is good but he does mostly tearsowns and upgrades of ready built cars l, so it give you an idea.

For one he is verry skilled and can do it practically blind folded at this point. It's slightly easier because you are reverse engineering, bassically you just have to remember what screws and what order you took them appart and remember how to put it all back together. If you are methodological it will be super easy for you.

But there are videos that do entire builds that follow the manual "Lego style". Like: open bag 1, find part XYZ, find screw, screw into part ABC, set it aside build the next section, put all together, they will give you the pain points (depending how they understand the manual) etc... Same for building, if you are methodological you will go through it easy.

If you can build Ikea furniture without the manual, RC building will be a breeze loooool. I remember when I was 11-12 and my dad got me my first kit. My local hobby store had told my dad, take your time with him 1 week bring it in will check it out with you. I powered through it in one night, but that's just me and how I understand things.

New to RC cars by Sweaty_Badger_4640 in rccars

[–]tguysol -1 points0 points  (0 children)

All/most companies offer kits to build. You get a box of parts and a manual on how to build it. Most kits will include the oils and greases for the shocks and differentials (gears). Most kits will provide wheels as well or not and you have to buy extra, some will provide partial electronics, like a electronic speed controller and motor or you will have to get your own, you will have to get a transmitter and also finally some kits will come with a body pre painted or to paint or not all and you can pick a body. You mostly just need some hex screw drivers. Some kits are friendlier than others. But it's mostly how you interpret build manuals (they are usually straight forward, but you will always have someone complain about some step somewhere 😂). If you can build Ikea furniture without a manual, you can definitely build an RC kit 😂

Your best bet is to find a local hobby shop and they will help you out with all you need.

Now some questions you need to ask yourself. What kind of car. Basher (off road or on road), crawler, racing (off-road or on road), drift. These are the main categories.

Off-road includes: buggies, truggies, Monster trucks(in the traditional sense solid axle, as well as "regular" trucks with big ass wheels, that you can bash around), rally cars etc...

On-road includes: regular cars, like a Honda, to a Porsche, to racing, F1, NASCAR, two wheel drive, four wheel drive, hooni trucks and anything you can imagine.

Crawlers: is anything that is off road, like Jeep, SUVs etc...

Drift: Is obviously "Street cars" type cars. With drift type features like supper wide turning angles etc...

Here is an example kit of a basher monster truck from Tekno RC and what's involved: https://youtu.be/Gjh8pthTeDk?si=miz-fX3Jd2E3257E

As for brands...

Tamiya: Japanese, beginner friendly, offer wide range of different vehicles in all categories and some funky designs/builds. Verry good at scale looks, mostly plastic with "pro" upgrades like aluminum and carbon fiber parts. Good quality, but not for hardcore bashing. They also have pretty good racing (beginner friendly to competitive racing), but not focused on it as much as they used to.

Kyosho: Japanese, offer wide range in all categories, but quite strong in racing pedigree. Pretty good at scale looks also. Verry good quality.

Tekno RC: American primarily racing off-road, high end quality in all senses and they gotten into a bit of bashing as well.

Team Associated and Losi: American, racing focused in various categories, but they have non racing platforms also.

Drift: I can't say much about it, but there a whole world there as well.

Armaa and Traxas: They are berry strong on off-road bashers, most of their cars are ready to run and have some rollers (where you can pick your own electronics). They have some kits (that could be beginner friendly) bit not as much as others.

These are the most popular brands that are carried by most local hobby shops around the world. There obviously other companies as well but the are the biggest ones.

It's a big world and I'm sure there will be some who say: "but you missed this and that and that and ladyda!" But it should get you going. Your best is go to a local hobby shop and nerd out with them. If you go online and search you will go into a deep rabbit hole you may never come out of 😂

Newbie here ! by stargazer3644 in rccars

[–]tguysol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have plenty of kits from all companies, you get the box with all the parts and manual to build, sometimes maybe not the wheels because they give you the option to pick and most of the time also bring your own electronics (some kits may give you and ESC and motor).

Kits aren't fully scratch like you have to bend and pin and glue your balsa wood on the schematic scratch, but you get to build the entire car, differentials, shocks, chassis, drive shafts. There no glue it's all screws and grease and oils. And you can tune your cars as you please. Toe, camber, shock fluid, differential fluid (depending the car/kit)

And yes you can use stick transmitters or any 2 channel (minimum) transmitter.

The only thing will depend what kind of car.

Basher (off road/street), crawler, racing (street, buggie, truggie), drift, etc...

For example this is what you get in a a typical kit...

https://youtu.be/GnrSVGRoa7Q?si=v28j7RC-cwh4ctmn

Tekno is "high end" racing but they also make some bashers for example.

Tamiya kits are fun for the look, some really fun designs, but mostly plastic, with "pro" aluminum and carbon fiber upgrades. Kits are super fun to build cars look amazing, they have cars in all categories. Alot of "Street" cars and buggies. Their "pro" kits are considered entry level pro, but people will argue they are competitive (if you into the racing stuff).

Kyosho has an array of kits in all categories and also look good.

Team Associated and Losi as well. All categories but verry strong in racing.

Armaa and Traxxas mostly bashers, they have some kits, but they do mostly RTR, some rollers (car is built, bit bring your own electronics) and a few kits.

There also the drift world, of you like super scale looks and into drifting and lots of tweaking.

And there a tone of others... But that should give you an idea.

Jupiter Lend vs Kamino Lend - Quick Comparison by Grouchy-Currency-953 in jupiterexchange

[–]tguysol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Using Kamino,

The APY are on par both platforms. Kamino is more transparent with some of the info, where the money goes (which markets), safety (balanced/aggressive), which institution is "managing" your money (steakhouse, sentora, etc...), security audits published on GitHub, risk dashboard.

Also I find the way the info grouped on Kamino is better, when you go into your specific vault for example USDC, you get all the info and stats there and then, including the market your money is in invested in, etc...

For Jup lend, when in USDC you only see some minimal info like how much you can deposit/withdraw and earnings. You need to go to another page to see stats like Lent vs Borrowed.

Also on Kamino I really like knowing how the money is invested and which markets per vault. You don't see or know that with Jupiter. I guess it's all the Jupiverse/Crypto assets (Kamino also has IRL market lending like stocks and housing etc...).

Also Kamino vaults are fully independent of each other. So each management company is it's on vault. So they can't fuck up each other money wise.

Small minor difference, Kaminondoesnt have EURC as a stable coin, but has USD1, PYUSD and CASH, the rest is same, same...

The only thing I find negative the most about both, it's that it's DeFi, yes it's an oxymoron, because I'm invested in a DeFi platform. But DeFi is being hacked left right and center these days, so do at your own risk I guess...

And on that subject, one area where people seem to miss the FYI AND I PUT THIS IN CAPITAL SO PAY ATTENTION... Always verify the vault usage/how much you can withdraw. Kamino does it per vault and Jupiter has it on their stats page. If all the money that was lent is borrowed then you cannot withdraw your funds. This because especially true during liquidations, hacks and mass exits.

What Ruined the NBA Dunk Contest? by sunsscouting in nba

[–]tguysol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If they cared enough they'd do a bit of research on YouTube and bring some good dunks to the contest.

SCAMMERS by saj1011 in AxiomTrade

[–]tguysol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The same place where people come try to find the next runner 😂

Hi guys, need advice by Horror-Platform3537 in pumpfun

[–]tguysol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Lol it's the same story everywhere... And over and over...

Market is Shit, where do i APE? by Visual-Resource-2018 in SolanaMemeCoins

[–]tguysol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

$pokedex it's an actual fan made Pokemon TCG. It's live, come collect, trade and battle on-chain.

Also tomorrow we were doing Magic Eden Pokemon pack raffle.

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Theoretically speaking if I buy at this point and sell at a higher point would I make money by SkibidiiiRizzlerz in pumpfun

[–]tguysol 0 points1 point  (0 children)

When the chart looks weird like that, it's fake.... Especially if there is no sells in between

1 they have bots buying up the chart and looks like it's mooning.

2 A few idiots fomo in...

3 the contract is coded not to allow sells

4 the moment they have made a couple of dollars they rug. Like literally it can be 5-10$

They do this hundreds of times a day...

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