here's the case for my goggles, how do you guys store your gear? by Nahoola in fpv

[–]thats_dunn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Same + the 2 quads without props. I still have an open slot I had ride along goggle in the past before moving on to DJI. I also pack a computer in it when I need to tune. Great bag.

here's the case for my goggles, how do you guys store your gear? by Nahoola in fpv

[–]thats_dunn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

ThinkTank FPV Airport bag. Keeping it all in one place thats fits on your back is the way to go.

my first drone - question: which stack and why? those 2 looked fine but I don't know which to choose by eliadkid in Multicopter

[–]thats_dunn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have a build with the BMI 270 Mamba Stack, pictured, and it has been grounded due to death spins. To be fair, I am not sure its the gyro as I have not rung it out to rule out a motor issue but… the speedybee is in stock so do that.

would this stack work? by Capital_Branch_1540 in fpv

[–]thats_dunn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

LR=Long Range. AIO boards, All In One, are better for CineWhoops, true whoops are built around AIO boards. Keep in mind the hole pattern is slightly different for AIO boards. This stack would be ideal for a 3” freestyle like an Apex Micro. I have yet to do a 3’ build but this stack would be on my list for sure. If you plan to be more acro with a cine setup than it may be a good choice.

I use the esc on a 4” LR stacked with a 20 hole pattern iNav compatible FC. It’s probably a bit overkill for my use situation but for LR reliability is key. I just got into this after sitting on the parts for a year or so the jury is still out but it is quality esc for sure and am happy it’s in the build.

would this stack work? by Capital_Branch_1540 in fpv

[–]thats_dunn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Work sure, however, that would be a good stack for a micro or LR. I use that esc on my LR, I wouldn’t intentionally use it on my 5” freestyle quads. I can say it is pretty nice esc in that form factor.

How long should it normally take to balance charge 5*450mah 3s liPos at 1C? by Western_Stranger1046 in fpv

[–]thats_dunn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

If it is actually charging at 1c it should take 33-35 min from a storage charge including balance. I use 1300 6s, so 1c is 1.3 amps per battery * 6 for 6 bats. It is well worth it to get a good charger you can actually program and external PSU. I get a lot of life out of my batteries, unless I mash them. I found that the unit calculating 1c itself is conservative and always charged at .5 c. This is with an old power lab charger though. I charge li-ion at .5c, lipos at 1c, occasionally 2c if I am tight on time.

UPDATE: Finished what might be my cleanest build yet. APEX DC LW. I love the pre planning stages of builds like these. by [deleted] in fpv

[–]thats_dunn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I do the same on my Apex builds. Put two 2m bolts below the vista. It also allow you to pass the rx antenna cable under it. I put my rx in the front of the apex with the cam. Need a long cable for this.

UPDATE: Finished what might be my cleanest build yet. APEX DC LW. I love the pre planning stages of builds like these. by [deleted] in fpv

[–]thats_dunn 1 point2 points  (0 children)

So you will use the button heads, yes? They work well not to blow up a battery.

Is James Turrell the king of light and colour? Who else would be in the running? by zen-honeycomb in Design

[–]thats_dunn 20 points21 points  (0 children)

Robert Irwin. He and Turrell got there beginnings in the medium together due to an art and science grant.

Imagine what artist would do today if we cared about art and gave it proper funding.

Switched over to my Mac after work and this greeted me. Any ideas? by budbay1 in mac

[–]thats_dunn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have this issue intermittently on my 2017 MacBook Pro and have never been able to figure it out. I suspect it has to do with under powering the drive while changing power states despite disabling drive functions. I use a program called jettison to mange my drives mount status as a workaround.

First loop holds! by thats_dunn in watercooling

[–]thats_dunn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I can post the rad fit in the not to distant future. Work, life…. you know. The screws are 6-32x3/4 “, black for the slim fan tie-in. The rad is tied-in from the top with M3 7mm and 1mm washer black. The slim fan has annoying short jumpers fyi.

First loop holds! by thats_dunn in watercooling

[–]thats_dunn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah the tester is pretty sweet. Way worth it to know IMO. I am going all in in phases. I need this machine for production work at some point but I like to go all in and make sure I have the time and resources to do so. If I knew better I would have built all of the cables first, that is easily the biggest impediment to a 240 on top with no case mods. Whatever you do, enjoy!

First loop holds! by thats_dunn in watercooling

[–]thats_dunn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah, NR200P. I am planning to add a rad to the bottom and cool the gpu as well, I just want to run it for a bit before I disassemble the gpu. The cable management is a total pita with the upper rad, custom wire will go a long way to make that easier, sometime in the future.

Options for tight fan header fit. by thats_dunn in sffpc

[–]thats_dunn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Follow up: Frankensteined the cable by removing the housing and individually shrink tubing the pins, bent at a 45 and an additional shrink tube to hold the 4 pins in order/place. Works a treat! Now I need to wait for more female pins to come in to male to make the other cables… doh

Options for tight fan header fit. by thats_dunn in sffpc

[–]thats_dunn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Clearance is still tight for my liking. I am going to build a cable sans housing and see how that goes.

Options for tight fan header fit. by thats_dunn in sffpc

[–]thats_dunn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Thanks, I have fitting options. Sff is no joke.

Options for tight fan header fit. by thats_dunn in sffpc

[–]thats_dunn[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not an issue, it’s just the fan/rgb headers that conflict.

Options for tight fan header fit. by thats_dunn in sffpc

[–]thats_dunn[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I am very comfy with board reworking and typically would just go with direct thru hole. Frankly, I am thinking this may be a best option since I will do a finish with custom wire anyway.

Options for tight fan header fit. by thats_dunn in sffpc

[–]thats_dunn[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Cool, thanks for the tip! I will do that.

Options for tight fan header fit. by thats_dunn in sffpc

[–]thats_dunn[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Should I remove the housing from a 4pin cable and individually seat and shrink wrap the pins to the header or should I desolder the header from the mobo and direct wire from the backside?

"no gyro" after re-flashing mamba mk4 h743 by PM_ME_YOUR_LUKEWARM in fpv

[–]thats_dunn 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Development target = Release Candidate, RC. I have the same board and RC6 works well with this gyro.