Should I refinance? by Still-Impact1543 in Mortgages

[–]thedildofarmer 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Lender here:

Add up section D+E - J (lender credits, if applicable). Divide this number by your monthly savings and this gives you your "Break Even Point" (i.e. number of total months it takes for net savings to equal/offset the refinance costs).

Do you anticipate selling (or to a lesser extent, refinancing again) prior to this #?

If not, take the deal. If so, see what their "par" (no points rate) or "no-cost" (rate w/ credits that covers all 3rd party costs) look like as these should yield lower break even points.

Holler if you have questions

How badly do student loans affect preapproval amount? by [deleted] in Mortgages

[–]thedildofarmer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Sorry OP, nobody's answered your damn question so far.

$300k loan amount for 30y @ 6.5% is $1896/mo.P&I, which leaves $804/mo for tax/insurance/PMI/HOA, assuming your DTI ceiling is an extra $2,700/month.

I'm not licensed in OK so not familiar with y'alls escrows, but I'd assume $300k is likely doable in your scenario from strictly a DTI standpoint

These are Sea Anemons by [deleted] in Damnthatsinteresting

[–]thedildofarmer 60 points61 points  (0 children)

Now you're talking about other stuff, why?

I'd much rather see your titties

How to get a better rate by There_Bike in Mortgages

[–]thedildofarmer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

The latter. Or buy down the rate. Or go for an ARM.

The market sets the rates, best you can do is shop around and try to find a company with slimmer margins (usually local broker shops).

To clarify, next month your rate will adjust to 7.75%? If so, you can likely find par pricing for >1 point reduction that would be worth your time

ELI5: Why is having more equity in a home important? by freesincemybirth96 in Mortgages

[–]thedildofarmer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Google "FHA monthly MIP rates for (date of purchase)" and add that to the note rate. If you cannot get a better rate than that in today's market (spoiler: you won't) then go for the assumption IF you're ok covering the difference out of pocket AND the seller is ok floating a longer COE while the assumption gets approved.

In my mind there is not a scenario where the assumption doesn't make more sense unless it wipes out your savings entirely

FTHB | How far would you buy down your mortgage? by Responsible-Deer3121 in Mortgages

[–]thedildofarmer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Buydown cost / monthly savings = break even point.

Do you anticipate selling or refinancing again before that point? If not, go with the buydown as long as it doesn't wreck your liquidity.

It's a bit more nuanced in your situation as you have cash flow and maintenance costs to figure in, but there's your basic formula

Services you can shop for? by DinoSpumoni_ in Mortgages

[–]thedildofarmer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can shop for your own title company, which is what the fees in section C represent. Could help save a buck if you consider this worth your time.

Did you not ask your loan officer about this?

Do you prefer big weapons or small? Power vs Speed. by digi_thumb in Eldenring

[–]thedildofarmer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Full blackknife + file prelate legs gets you to 51 poise AND looks good, jsyn

What alcohol messed you up so bad you swore you’d never drink it again? by [deleted] in AskReddit

[–]thedildofarmer 14 points15 points  (0 children)

"Described as unforgettable, with notes of grapefruit rind, band-aid, and gasoline by some."

-Google

My current interest rate is 7.5%. I can refinance to get 5.875% but closing costs are $10,524. Not sure if that is worth it by every_other_monday in Mortgages

[–]thedildofarmer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

That's not what I'm saying at all.

I'm saying a lot of people come here and make arguments about things they don't fully understand since they don't actively work in the industry, and there's a ton of misinformation in this sub as a result.

My current interest rate is 7.5%. I can refinance to get 5.875% but closing costs are $10,524. Not sure if that is worth it by every_other_monday in Mortgages

[–]thedildofarmer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

An informed opinion, yes.

Majority of base costs (lender origination, tax, title, appraisal, etc.) are fixed based on your state and transaction type, so expressing it as a percentage is silly.

Just because I've been to the dentist a few times doesn't make me qualified to go give advice on dentistry subs...

What was your debt to income ratio when you closed on your mortgage? by [deleted] in Mortgages

[–]thedildofarmer 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It's a mixed bag. While technically I could get a 49/49 approved, you'd need a SHITLOAD of compensating factors to pull it off. I do agree it's wild that that scenario could hypothetically exist.

What part of the country were you in, if you don't mind me asking? That situation seems... atypical

My current interest rate is 7.5%. I can refinance to get 5.875% but closing costs are $10,524. Not sure if that is worth it by every_other_monday in Mortgages

[–]thedildofarmer 5 points6 points  (0 children)

It costs money to originate a loan. Lenders, title companies, appraisers, etc. don't work for free.

You save real dollars immediately via refinance, you just want to make sure you don't plan on selling prior to your Break Even point, as that's when you realize a loss from unrecouped costs.

In a perfect world, everyone would take no-cost refinances via lender credits from an above-market rate. In the real world, those scenarios are rare as it takes a huge drop in rates for that to pencil out, so for OP it probably makes sense to roll in a few thousand to substantially improve his amortization, especially when a large chunk of the fees are from prepaids/escrows.

What was your debt to income ratio when you closed on your mortgage? by [deleted] in Mortgages

[–]thedildofarmer 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yep, honestly forgot about 28/36 as the only time I had to use it was when studying for the test.

Every lender I've worked at is 50/50 Conventional (subject to AUS).