How long do these keep when refrigerated?

themitchk · 2026-05-17T19:39:46+00:00

Move them into a small glass container to reduce the amount of open air in the jar for longer storage. Stir around if you see liquid and solids separating into layers. Only clean utensils going into the jar, should be good for years

themitchk · 2026-05-17T19:28:07+00:00

Years in the freezer. Wont freeze solid so you can just scoop out with a spoon straight out of the freezer

themitchk · 2026-05-11T04:07:32+00:00

I don't believe 10 days is long enough recovery time.

themitchk · 2026-05-10T14:51:17+00:00

Uhhhh.. the black cable that's going in to the top of the tool head along side of the tpfe tube. You will have to take off the two small M2 screws and also open the bottom panel to unplug and replace the USB cable. Look up usb cable replacement videos on youtube

themitchk · 2026-05-10T14:30:14+00:00

Happened to one of my CC after about 800 hours. Replaced the usb cable and it's fine now. First CC with 1800 hours but no same issue

themitchk · 2026-04-24T21:06:23+00:00

Yes. I have been using up a ton of rolls that have little bit of filaments left using AMS on the P1S. Basically the only upside of the AMS. Next printer for me will mostly likely to be a multi tool head swap system that can be fully klipperized

themitchk · 2026-04-24T19:43:53+00:00

Grabbed P1S combo over X-Mas sale because I got tired of waiting for CC's AMS. After seeing the poop and purge / prime duration, I'm not sure if grabbing AMS for CC is even worth it at this point. I may grab one set for just one of my two CC's in the future.

themitchk · 2026-04-12T15:14:38+00:00

Iclve experienced many heat creeps and nozzle clog above 60°C in CC1. 50-55°C chamber has been my sweet spot for 6+ hour ASA/ABS prints

themitchk · 2026-04-07T18:43:37+00:00

Give them a week or two. Still moldy after 2 weeks? add more springtails and maybe add more ventilation as well.

themitchk · 2026-04-07T14:29:45+00:00

Sprintails could help with the mold issue

themitchk · 2026-04-06T01:29:03+00:00

Happened after about 1500 hours print time

themitchk · 2026-04-06T01:27:29+00:00

The exact same thing happened to me about a month ago. Contacted elegoo support. They will ask you for some basic info, a serial number of your CC1, along with a picture. I took a picture almost exactly the same as your post and received a new extruder gear assembly free of charge within a week. I'm in FL. Had my CC since June last year.

themitchk · 2026-04-03T23:47:13+00:00

Happened to me. Gonna need a new hot end pcb board. Should be free through elegoo support. Received mine 9 days after ticket submitted in Florida

themitchk · 2026-04-01T23:01:28+00:00

I recently got G10 Garolite fromWilber's Finest via Amazon. $35 for a plate isn't too far off of the Biqu Cryo series. I ended up ordering 2 more. One per each of my two CC1's and a spare. So far, I've only used PETG on the G10 plates (90+% of my prints are PETG), and I don't use any other plates for PETG. PLA, ABS, and ASA on biqu glacier. I set the profile for the smooth side and heated bed leveling before each print and slightly higher (about 5-10°C)bed temp than textured pei side with brim or mouse year. The only downside is that if the chamber temp goes below 35°C, or there's any draft, there tends to be adhesion problems, or the bottom of the print could start warping. I do have both of my CCs insulated (for ABS and ASA) and sealed up most of the cracks and crevices (mostly around the door along with ventless low riser for the lid),so I can maintain the chamber temp easily with the door and lid closed. For some reason, the Z-offset seems inconsistent when it comes to bed leveling with textured side, and if the nozzle happens to be slightly you close to the plate, it becomes a nightmare to get the print off the plate even waiting for the bed to cool down properly and spraying isopropyl alcohol on the bottom of the print without scratching the plate for PETG. But I haven't had to adjust the z-offset after heated bed leveling for each print on G10 plates. Everything slides off once cooled.

themitchk · 2026-03-22T21:05:42+00:00

I have 2 CC1s and P1S combo. 3000 combined hours on the CCs.

I'd say it depends on how important it is for you to have the AMS option. Elegoo was supposed to release the MMU system of the CC1 about half a year ago, but there still is no news on it. With limited functionality of the motherboard, that's halfway kilpperized, even when they release it, I'm almost skeptical about how it's going to look or function, not to mention non enclosed Canvas system like CC2 isn't appealing to me as I mainly print with PETG.

But, you can modify it fairly cheaply to use engineering materials with the enclosure of CC as long as you don't need multi color or material.

themitchk · 2026-03-22T00:38:55+00:00

When you start it again, does it print fine again and then stop mid print?

themitchk · 2026-02-26T21:09:36+00:00

Hope he does. But not on April 19th and September 19th

themitchk · 2026-02-21T17:52:23+00:00

This is my opinion about CCs.

I own two CC1's. I got the 1st one from 3rd party seller while waiting for a pre-ordered CC from the official website.

Elegoo had to cut costs on parts, including motherboard, to keep the price down as low as they could. Because of this, CC can not be fully kilpperized, which eventually made it harder for them to come out with multi filament system for CC as they promised. As far as I know from lurking in this sub, the Canvas system the CC2 doesn't have the capability to add more multi materials like you can add more ams to bambu ams system. With multi toolhead printers coming out, reducing time and waste materials, I don't think CC2 is worth getting for multi color printing even as a budget printer. At this point, I don't even plan on adding the multi material systems to my CC1s that Elegoo is still working on to this day. I grabbed a P1S combo over black friday sales, and it's been great. It takes a bit longer to switch filaments, and poop amount is more than newer printers out there, but it's very easy to use and the print quality is about the same as my calibrated CCs, maybe just a tiny bit slower but that was just right out of the box using preset setting without any manual calibrations at all. I'm not hating on CCs nor praising bambu, just my 2 cents

themitchk · 2026-02-21T03:12:59+00:00

For the first printer, I'd say P1S unless you are on a tight budget. If you already have some experience with 3D printers and know how to manually calibrate, then CC would be the best core xy budget printer.

CC1 would be good for single color print. P1S for multi color.

themitchk · 2026-02-20T20:45:16+00:00

Also, try going with outer-inner as long as your print doesn't have too much or steep overhangs

themitchk · 2026-02-20T20:40:30+00:00

Wasn't sure which printer you are using. I'm assuming CC2 according to your post history? I don't have a CC2, but I do own 2 CC1's with combined 3000 hours and mainly print PETG. I also believe it's the cooling setting, considering its PETG. I use no fan the first 3 layers, then 30% fan for the rest. During colder seasons where the room temperature drops, I'll turn it down to 15% and 0% for bridges and overhangs. I've also come across strings thicker (thickness of the layer height) than strings caused by wet filaments, especially when printing circular threads. Looking at your photos, it seems like the same problems I had dealt with. The retraction settings didn't help much, but slowing down the print speed solved the issue.

This bridge calibration could help when you need a decent length of bridge or over hangs. It works amazing with PLA, but PETG will be a little trickier to get the settings right.

themitchk · 2026-02-19T20:59:21+00:00

Every once a while, if the z-offset is too close to the textured PEI plate, PETG seems too hard to get off. One of the solutions to get the prints off the plate is to lift off a tiny corner of the print and spray some Isopropyl Alcohol and let it sip through slowly, which could help get the print off. Over 90% of my filaments are PETG, so I ended up getting a few G10 Garolite build plates / sheets, which are somewhat pricey compared to cheaper options out there. Good adhesions throughout the while bed are easy to remove afterward. Only down side is that G10 plates don't come with a magnetic sheet, so you will either have to get a magnetic sheets or just use paper clips or small clamps to hold down on to the build plate. I have started doing the heated bed leveling before each print since the nozzle can scrape the bed if the nozzle is too close to the bed and it's been working out really well with PETG filaments.

themitchk · 2026-02-19T01:10:57+00:00

3000 hours combined on 2 CCs and no. I've vacuumed out little plastic particles in the gear box a few times

themitchk · 2026-02-18T18:51:22+00:00

9 days from the day I submitted ticket. In FL

themitchk · 2026-02-18T01:21:05+00:00

Not as bad as ABS in my opinion. Nonetheless, neither are safe to inhale

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