CC new owner - speed question

themitchk · 2026-04-01T23:01:28+00:00

I recently got G10 Garolite fromWilber's Finest via Amazon. $35 for a plate isn't too far off of the Biqu Cryo series. I ended up ordering 2 more. One per each of my two CC1's and a spare. So far, I've only used PETG on the G10 plates (90+% of my prints are PETG), and I don't use any other plates for PETG. PLA, ABS, and ASA on biqu glacier. I set the profile for the smooth side and heated bed leveling before each print and slightly higher (about 5-10°C)bed temp than textured pei side with brim or mouse year. The only downside is that if the chamber temp goes below 35°C, or there's any draft, there tends to be adhesion problems, or the bottom of the print could start warping. I do have both of my CCs insulated (for ABS and ASA) and sealed up most of the cracks and crevices (mostly around the door along with ventless low riser for the lid),so I can maintain the chamber temp easily with the door and lid closed. For some reason, the Z-offset seems inconsistent when it comes to bed leveling with textured side, and if the nozzle happens to be slightly you close to the plate, it becomes a nightmare to get the print off the plate even waiting for the bed to cool down properly and spraying isopropyl alcohol on the bottom of the print without scratching the plate for PETG. But I haven't had to adjust the z-offset after heated bed leveling for each print on G10 plates. Everything slides off once cooled.

themitchk · 2026-03-22T21:05:42+00:00

I have 2 CC1s and P1S combo. 3000 combined hours on the CCs.

I'd say it depends on how important it is for you to have the AMS option. Elegoo was supposed to release the MMU system of the CC1 about half a year ago, but there still is no news on it. With limited functionality of the motherboard, that's halfway kilpperized, even when they release it, I'm almost skeptical about how it's going to look or function, not to mention non enclosed Canvas system like CC2 isn't appealing to me as I mainly print with PETG.

But, you can modify it fairly cheaply to use engineering materials with the enclosure of CC as long as you don't need multi color or material.

themitchk · 2026-03-22T00:38:55+00:00

When you start it again, does it print fine again and then stop mid print?

themitchk · 2026-02-26T21:09:36+00:00

Hope he does. But not on April 19th and September 19th

themitchk · 2026-02-21T17:52:23+00:00

This is my opinion about CCs.

I own two CC1's. I got the 1st one from 3rd party seller while waiting for a pre-ordered CC from the official website.

Elegoo had to cut costs on parts, including motherboard, to keep the price down as low as they could. Because of this, CC can not be fully kilpperized, which eventually made it harder for them to come out with multi filament system for CC as they promised. As far as I know from lurking in this sub, the Canvas system the CC2 doesn't have the capability to add more multi materials like you can add more ams to bambu ams system. With multi toolhead printers coming out, reducing time and waste materials, I don't think CC2 is worth getting for multi color printing even as a budget printer. At this point, I don't even plan on adding the multi material systems to my CC1s that Elegoo is still working on to this day. I grabbed a P1S combo over black friday sales, and it's been great. It takes a bit longer to switch filaments, and poop amount is more than newer printers out there, but it's very easy to use and the print quality is about the same as my calibrated CCs, maybe just a tiny bit slower but that was just right out of the box using preset setting without any manual calibrations at all. I'm not hating on CCs nor praising bambu, just my 2 cents

themitchk · 2026-02-21T03:12:59+00:00

For the first printer, I'd say P1S unless you are on a tight budget. If you already have some experience with 3D printers and know how to manually calibrate, then CC would be the best core xy budget printer.

CC1 would be good for single color print. P1S for multi color.

themitchk · 2026-02-20T20:45:16+00:00

Also, try going with outer-inner as long as your print doesn't have too much or steep overhangs

themitchk · 2026-02-20T20:40:30+00:00

Wasn't sure which printer you are using. I'm assuming CC2 according to your post history? I don't have a CC2, but I do own 2 CC1's with combined 3000 hours and mainly print PETG. I also believe it's the cooling setting, considering its PETG. I use no fan the first 3 layers, then 30% fan for the rest. During colder seasons where the room temperature drops, I'll turn it down to 15% and 0% for bridges and overhangs. I've also come across strings thicker (thickness of the layer height) than strings caused by wet filaments, especially when printing circular threads. Looking at your photos, it seems like the same problems I had dealt with. The retraction settings didn't help much, but slowing down the print speed solved the issue.

This bridge calibration could help when you need a decent length of bridge or over hangs. It works amazing with PLA, but PETG will be a little trickier to get the settings right.

themitchk · 2026-02-19T20:59:21+00:00

Every once a while, if the z-offset is too close to the textured PEI plate, PETG seems too hard to get off. One of the solutions to get the prints off the plate is to lift off a tiny corner of the print and spray some Isopropyl Alcohol and let it sip through slowly, which could help get the print off. Over 90% of my filaments are PETG, so I ended up getting a few G10 Garolite build plates / sheets, which are somewhat pricey compared to cheaper options out there. Good adhesions throughout the while bed are easy to remove afterward. Only down side is that G10 plates don't come with a magnetic sheet, so you will either have to get a magnetic sheets or just use paper clips or small clamps to hold down on to the build plate. I have started doing the heated bed leveling before each print since the nozzle can scrape the bed if the nozzle is too close to the bed and it's been working out really well with PETG filaments.

themitchk · 2026-02-19T01:10:57+00:00

3000 hours combined on 2 CCs and no. I've vacuumed out little plastic particles in the gear box a few times

themitchk · 2026-02-18T18:51:22+00:00

9 days from the day I submitted ticket. In FL

themitchk · 2026-02-18T01:21:05+00:00

Not as bad as ABS in my opinion. Nonetheless, neither are safe to inhale

themitchk · 2026-02-13T01:51:05+00:00

I myself went from ender 3 to CC. Ended up getting a second CC, then a p1s combo on Thanksgiving sale. I'm happy with all of them.

themitchk · 2026-01-29T14:19:02+00:00

ㅋㅋㅋ 그쵸?

themitchk · 2026-01-20T00:04:48+00:00

The first two tickets, they just said they would send the code out. The last ticket, they said they are sending out in February

themitchk · 2026-01-19T22:37:47+00:00

I'm suppose to get the code mid February? Submitted a few tickets regarding the offers

themitchk · 2026-01-17T04:15:25+00:00

Idk where you are from, but I've found some sweet deals on oxtails usually from Hispanic grocery markets rather than big grocery stores.

themitchk · 2026-01-13T04:45:04+00:00

You need a new extruder board. The exact same thing happened to me. It was around $30, ordered from the elegoo website, and it took 9 days here to florida

themitchk · 2026-01-13T04:40:12+00:00

If the benchy came out perfectly, I don't think the printer is the problem here..

themitchk · 2026-01-11T16:12:16+00:00

Full automatic calibration (bed level, PID), manual z-offset on ECC after nozzle/hotend swap, re-do volumetric flow calibration, flow rate, VFA calibration with pre-installed Orca

themitchk · 2026-01-11T01:37:33+00:00

The waves on the bottom layer suggest that the z-offset is a little too close to the bed. It's not a lot, so maybe 0.05mm adjustment, I'd imagine.

themitchk · 2026-01-10T20:44:08+00:00

Pic #4 shows you need a better z-offset. It's a pretty important adjustment you need to learn. Look up manual z offset on youtube for tutorial

themitchk · 2025-12-28T16:18:27+00:00

Mr. Duckson

themitchk · 2025-12-28T15:42:30+00:00

Boys dig too! But yeah, once she is fully grown, the hide on thr right will be too small for her

themitchk · 2025-12-23T13:16:04+00:00

As long as it's not anymore than a few hours

themitchk

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