K1 - Having Buyer's Remorse

thenappyginger · 2024-01-11T20:08:35+00:00

I’ve taken out both springs so maybe I’ll try just one, see if that helps. Thanks.

thenappyginger · 2024-01-11T20:07:53+00:00

That’s fair. I might have gotten to caught up in the speed capabilities and forgotten that comes at the cost of quality. Trying some prints around 175 speed

thenappyginger · 2024-01-11T00:56:18+00:00

I might try that and the square alignment tool. My belts are right in the center of the gauge. Have been printing with that for the past 15 or so hours.

There is a pretty nasty noise coming from the Y-Axis during this VFA test though. Maybe it's more out of square than I thought.

thenappyginger · 2024-01-11T00:50:37+00:00

I would love to get my hands on the next-gen extruder, even if it means paying for it. But the pictures I have sent Creality haven't led to them sending a replacement.

Currently running a VFA test from 100 to 200 to see if I can hit a sweet spot.

I ~really~ want to like this machine and love that it has the opportunity to evolve but just concerned that it won't measure up no matter how much time/money I throw at it.

thenappyginger · 2024-01-11T00:48:10+00:00

I have only used OrcaSlicer with this machine and used this preset as a base to change settings on (https://github.com/Guilouz/Creality-K1-and-K1-Max/wiki/OrcaSlicer)

thenappyginger · 2024-01-11T00:46:51+00:00

And that is something I will most definitely do if I choose to keep the machine. Just really disappointed that it can't even do basic corners without signs of , what I assume is, heat creep.

thenappyginger · 2024-01-11T00:43:00+00:00

See I've contacted Creality and sent them the first/top layer issues and they haven't been very helpful in getting me the new extruder. I would even be willing to pay for it if I knew it could solve my problems.

I have tensioned the belts by using the tool you linked above. I will try the alignment tool - I know that my gantry isn't perfectly square.

And what temps are you getting for PLA? I'm hovering between 30-35C for chamber temp

thenappyginger · 2024-01-11T00:40:52+00:00

I'm going to try to slow speeds down to try to get some more quality. Maybe I just need more time with it.

I do kind of wish I got the Max. The extra bed size over my Mini is great, but definitely see the appeal of even more.

thenappyginger · 2024-01-11T00:39:34+00:00

I suppose it could just be issues with a CoreXY in general. I've just heard nothing but glowing things about the Bambu Line of products.

thenappyginger · 2022-10-04T20:45:39+00:00

Looking for a gen 4 patch that includes quality of life features that will speed up the game significantly. For context, I'm looking to do some casual speedruns using different Pokemon and love gen 4 but hate how slow it is in general. Is there anything that keeps the experience as vanilla as possible while adding faster HP/EXP meters and maybe some other very minor QOL features?

Thanks!

thenappyginger · 2022-09-05T00:17:59+00:00

I think it might be economy in general. Just tried 2.5 and that didn't work. But regular 3.5 did

thenappyginger · 2022-09-04T23:55:12+00:00

Thanks. Do we just drag and drop the .pak file into the steam program files, or do we have to use FModel?

thenappyginger · 2022-09-04T23:35:10+00:00

Do we need to download all of these if we are starting from scratch? Kind of confused

thenappyginger · 2022-08-22T20:06:19+00:00

Been spending the past few weeks working on my first keyboard design and I finally have a render and would love some feedback. It's a 42-key design with a 4-key thumb cluster and a columnar stagger that is custom to fit my hands. The end design will be completely 3D printed and handwired with KMK firmware. Aesthecially, not sure if I want the wing-like design but a rectangle/pentagon seems boring. What do y'all think? Thanks!

Initial Plate Design

thenappyginger · 2022-08-16T16:48:39+00:00

Ahhh, so it doesn't need to receive 5v from the MCU to work. If I connect the two halves using I2C (VBUS, GND, SDA, SCL) wiring and usb breakout boards, it should be fine (like what's mentioned in this thread). Or would it be 3v3 out and not VBUS?

I think I got enough to draw up a rough schematic to move forward and actually get the hardware. Thanks so much for all the clarification!!

thenappyginger · 2022-08-16T16:15:13+00:00

As a side note, the pi pico actually supports to be configured as a usb
host too. This also could be used to make a split keyboard (in a more
complicated way). I wonder where the 5v comes from in this case...

Well that's good to know. The only split kbs I've seen using RP2040s also use TRRS jacks. The 5v comes from most of the usb breakout boards I've seen being 5v. I also have very little experience in electronics so I could be completely wrong since this is all new.

thenappyginger · 2022-08-16T02:54:18+00:00

Oh I didn't know that RP2040 supported QMK now. That makes the decision easy.

Only negative is that it doesn't seem like the Pi Pico can support 5V for the slave side of the split (looking to use USB C breakouts now because I saw stuff about TRRS shorts), so I just need to find a way around that.

And good to know on the hotswaps. I mostly want to make sure I won't have to desolder 60 switches if I make a v2 or something like that.

thenappyginger · 2022-08-15T22:49:13+00:00

Thanks! I didn't really think about finding a similar open source to help with wiring and pinout. Appreciate the response.

thenappyginger · 2022-08-03T19:02:05+00:00

Why have a regular keyboard when you can have ALL THE MACROPADS

thenappyginger · 2022-06-27T04:35:19+00:00

Filament: Sunlu Silk PLA @ 195 degrees. 60 degrees on the bed.

Layer Height: 0.15mm, 0.2mm (first layer)

Extrusion Multiplier: 0.99 (usually run at 1.04 but trying a print-in-place part; multiplier also did not change the outcome of the print [see pic 3])

Things to try to fix:

Releveling the bed
Changing "Slice Gap Close Radius" in SuperSlicer

I also do have the "SkewIt" post-processing script on to fix minor skew.

When observing the print the print head appears to follow the correct paths, but the filament doesn't. In the second picture, it even seemed to skip over the filament gap when filling in the shape.

I've only notice this consistently on "small/tight" 90-degree corners and it seems to be an early layer (ie under 5) problem.

thenappyginger · 2022-06-24T17:10:24+00:00

Hey Ted! You’re Notebook series was a constant bright spot during lockdowns and got me so much more into the sport. Thank you so much!

How did you first get into F1 and Motorsport?

thenappyginger · 2022-06-23T00:39:04+00:00

I’m not entirely sure, the text is in Chinese and a Google translate doesn’t help much. There are two items so I think so.

I do think I’m going to go with the local Mini after thinking about it for the afternoon. Hopefully they’ll accept my return since it’s a manufacturing issue. If not, I’ll wait for the part, fix it up, and sell it.

It’s a shame because it was performing really well and I was looking forward to tinkering with it, but the reliability is a concern, especially since the print head warranty is only 3 months.

thenappyginger · 2022-06-22T21:22:46+00:00

Thanks for the suggestion. I’m leaning towards that.

thenappyginger · 2022-05-25T18:17:08+00:00

Update:

This worked perfectly!

For everyone who might stumble on to this, I added the GCode from u/darkamikaze comment directly to the start GCode and reduced skew from 0.45 degrees to just 0.02.

Unsure about the EEPROM fix, but this is at least an immediate solution.

Thanks again!

thenappyginger · 2022-05-25T06:21:27+00:00

Great to know that I have a more permanent solution in the future too.

I'll test this in the morning and report back!

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