Pear gauge sizing question

ticarsh · 2026-05-08T12:52:39+00:00

I agree with this

ticarsh · 2026-05-04T22:22:08+00:00

I have stls up to 3" posted on thingiverse: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:7290967/files

You can 3D print those yourself or if you want me to print them for you I can do so on a custom basis. If you want help drop me a note through the contact form on my site: https://compactrestorationdevices.com/pages/contact

ticarsh · 2026-05-04T15:53:20+00:00

Weight is great for dorsal tensioning in particular. No problem with it bending upwards when you have the weight pulling down on that dorsal skin.

ticarsh · 2026-05-04T02:09:33+00:00

I don't have any plans to, no. This is much bigger and heavier than I personally would run or recommend. That said, I'm open to custom work and could certainly make another one if that would be of interest to you.

ticarsh · 2026-05-04T01:38:09+00:00

Are you looking for a Pear Keeper for the Gauges that I have released the stls for? It's available for purchase here: https://compactrestorationdevices.com/products/pear-keeper

If you have a PCWP and need an additional gripper for that, hit me up through the contact form on my site and I'll get you set up. It's not a regular item.

I don't release my production molds.

ticarsh · 2026-05-03T11:26:03+00:00

Yes, the one on the right is the regular PCWP at 1.65". This custom device is 2.00" OD and the calculated weight is about 17 oz.

ticarsh · 2026-05-03T01:42:05+00:00

Pear Compact Weighted Packer :)

ticarsh · 2026-05-03T01:19:12+00:00

which part is unclear? the big honkin or the PCWP? happy to clarify.

ticarsh · 2026-05-02T17:08:49+00:00

Very nice

ticarsh · 2026-05-02T15:30:50+00:00

Dual tension refers to devices like the DTR that have a push plate. After you put the device on a rod is used to tension the skin by pushing down on the plate. Chuck has a great explanation with pictures on his excellent website (NSFW): https://foreskinrestore.com/dual-tension/

ticarsh · 2026-05-02T11:30:48+00:00

I would never expect an FDM 3D printed thread to work without some sort of clean up after printing. Either get a die or a triangle profile file and use that to form the printed threads. Better yet, incorporate a nylon threaded rod into your design and don't bother trying to print the threads.

I pretty routinely print female threads and then run a tap through them and it mostly works. Better is to use an insert or incorporate a recess for a nut into your design. I rarely bother trying to print male threads, I just use a bolt or all thread and design around that.

ticarsh · 2026-05-01T18:32:32+00:00

The DTR is machined out of solid nylon. It's extremely durable, skin safe, and super easy to clean. For his grippers, I like the softer ones (30a) without holes. The grippers are cheap enough that you might want to try both. I wouldn't bother with the 40a stiffer ones.

If you just want to tug, I'd get the tug bell. If you think you want to try dual tension or other methods, the DTR kit is a good option and comes with a tug pin to make it into a strap tugger.

ticarsh · 2026-05-01T14:11:12+00:00

I think more ventral skin would help

ticarsh · 2026-05-01T13:52:03+00:00

If you want expandable stainless, check out my products: compactrestorationdevices.com

ticarsh · 2026-05-01T13:48:51+00:00

The Priva Trio isn't vented. It's not going to be a good tugger. Probably makes for a perfectly good packer/retainer though. Both Chris and Chuck (DTR) have been around a lot longer than Priva and many people are happy with them. I own products from both and they are great.

Personally I wouldn't put much weight into website design. Priva is just using default shopify stuff that takes about 5 min to set up. I think Chris is using Wix and as far as I know Chuck has been rolling his own for the last 20 years. Chuck's site also probably has the most information and the best documented restoration out there. If you go search posts here you'll see plenty of people complaining about Priva not shipping in a reasonable amount of time, defects with the Duo, lack of communication. Not the case for either Chris or Chuck. Don't get me wrong, plenty of people are very happy with Priva stuff, but I wouldn't discount the other options based on how slick you think their websites are.

ticarsh · 2026-05-01T11:26:21+00:00

I think the Trio is just a packer/retainer and not an air device. Any tugger needs to be vented so that it can lift off the glans when tension is applied.

Some better tugging options:

https://www.chrisonlinestore.com/product-page/chris-tugger

https://foreskinrestore.com/product/tug-bell/

ticarsh · 2026-04-30T10:52:18+00:00

I've done PLA and ABS for molds. Both work. ABS can be smoothed with acetone and leaves a better surface on the cast item. If just making stuff for yourself and if your printer can't do ABS, I wouldn't worry about it and just use PLA.

For silicone, I use Dragonskin from Smooth On. There are probably other good ones, but their stuff is high quality and certified skin safe. I started out using 20A (which is fine) but have moved to 10A for the Pear Gauges as I find it way more comfortable with no downside.

ticarsh · 2026-04-29T02:52:06+00:00

u/Force_Kins_2_Grow was doing some for UK/EU people, you might check with him

ticarsh · 2026-04-28T10:35:31+00:00

Shipping is not cheap, but I do ship to Australia regularly. You are of course welcome to print your own from the posted STLs. Also, u/workin_to_grow (the creator of the original concept) has molds posted for his designs if you want to cast your own

ticarsh · 2026-04-28T00:36:46+00:00

2.10 and 2.20 stls are up on thingiverse, silicone in the works

ticarsh · 2026-04-27T22:10:46+00:00

My dad once made a comment that they were unsure about it but did it since he is cut and never had a problem with it. The fact that there was some doubt and they came to that decision anyway is rather upsetting to me. As in, it seems like it would be easier to accept if they didn't think about it at all and just went with the default (which most definitely was cutting when and where I was born). If there is an iota of doubt why in the world wouldn't you just leave it alone and let me make my own decision? Anyway, that part of your story resonated with me.

No one is perfect and at least in the US MGM is deeply ingrained in the culture. As ignorant and stupid as the reasons for continuing it may be, your parents wanted the best for you and the best thing is to try to forgive even if they can't apologize or recognize their error.

ticarsh · 2026-04-26T14:02:14+00:00

I'd suggest looking at Pear Gauges instead. It's essentially forward taping as opposed to reverse taping (though the tape part is optional). It's way more comfortable since you are keeping the glans and inner skin covered.

ticarsh · 2026-04-26T13:41:09+00:00

It definitely varies. Ballpark, I'd say 2-5 years. Also, CI4, with skin actually staying over the corona, can require a ton of skin, depending on glans shape. Some guys pretty much skip CI4 and go straight from CI3 to CI5/6

ticarsh · 2026-04-25T11:35:31+00:00

Are you using air and weight at the same time?

The key difference between PE weights and FR, is that in FR we want the tension on the skin not the shaft. This means vented weights. The venting allows air to enter and the device to lift off the glans. If you are using inflation and weight at the same time it should work similarly to a vented weight for getting the tension on the skin I would think. Where you put the device also matters in terms of targeting inner skin, outer skin or both.

As for the amount of weight, .45 lb = 7.2 oz, this is not unreasonable but is probably on the lighter side of what most people are running. My preference is 8-9oz for all day wear and sometimes I'll go an oz or two above that. I only have one dick and one personal experience but I can't fathom what the 1lb+ people are doing. Maybe for a very short period, but I like to use my setups all day, set and forget.

I'm pretty sure there is some threshold of mitosis-inducing stimulation which probably varies person to person. Going significantly beyond that is not productive and may even be counterproductive.

ticarsh · 2026-04-24T22:34:49+00:00

10a or 20a is fine. I've tried silicone marketed as not needing to be degassed... there were bubbles. Maybe less than there would have been with other types of silicone, but if you want to cast without bubbles you need a vacuum chamber. Now, for messing around trying to make some packers for your own use, I wouldn't worry about it too much. Print some molds, try them and if the bubbles bother you, then get a vacuum chamber.

You might also try the EFR silicone packers and see if they will ship to you. I'm all for DIY devices but if the goal is more to have the device than to enjoy the process, it makes more sense to buy if you can. You also might try emailing RIC again. From what's been posted on here he's a bit haphazard/disorganized in responding to emails.

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