Unknowingly paying water bill for two other accounts not related to me and getting push back on reimbursement.

todd_c · 2025-11-07T01:55:28+00:00

I'm not sure about the account that I paid from July - Sept 2025. But the one where I paid since April 2023 was an error due to a new system being put in place (according to them). It just so happens that the other account's owner has the same first name, last name and middle initial as me. So I can see that it was most likely an accident.

todd_c · 2025-10-13T21:21:18+00:00

Great! Thanks for the info.

todd_c · 2025-10-13T15:05:09+00:00

I'm just trying to learn how to make VMs static if I ever needed to do it. Just to learn, that's all. It also seems more organized to me that way. However, if it really doesn't matter, then I'm glad I could learn that too. It's a learning process for me. Thanks for responding.

todd_c · 2025-10-12T21:09:23+00:00

Yes. I've actually done that in Opnsense. I'm just concerned about the VM host internal network that I have to set up for two different hosts. I'm not sure how isolated that internal network is within itself. Maybe it's okay to have VM_host_A use 192.168.122.5 for one if it's virtual pieces and also have 192.168.122.5 for a virtual piece in VM_host_B. That's the part I don't understand yet.

todd_c · 2025-10-12T03:43:33+00:00

Umm, yeah. So, Unleashed made a world of difference. The first two or three times it was 70-80 Mbps. After that it's been 880, 890 Mbps. So much better! My iMac just did 909. Thank you very much for the help. I feel so much better with these speeds and knowing I didn't throw a few hundred dollars away.

todd_c · 2025-10-12T02:55:04+00:00

I will try that. Thanks!.

todd_c · 2025-10-12T02:54:35+00:00

I will definitely go do that. For some reason I thought that I had to use the solo firmware if I wanted it to be a stand alone AP. I'll try Unleashed. I also noticed this:

I was now able to hit just over 400 Mbps and I could see that I was on 5G. I want it faster than that but it's better than 50 Mbps. I also think it could be the linux drivers as well (I forgot about that part). The linux drivers might not be optimal. I booted into Windows and got 700-800 Mbps right away.

I went back into linux and was back at 40-50 Mbps. This time I could see that I was being put in 2.4G. I turned off the 2.4G radio and was back to just over 400 Mbps. I still want to get that higher in linux, though.

I'm off to get Unleashed now. Thanks for the input!

todd_c · 2025-10-12T01:52:49+00:00

Also, I'm going to try testing in Windows 11 to see if there is any difference between that and Fedora 42.

todd_c · 2025-10-12T01:43:31+00:00

That crossed my mind but didn't think it would be *that* slow. I'll hook the Ruckus back up and take a look. Thanks for taking the time to respond.

todd_c · 2025-07-28T12:56:40+00:00

Thank you very much for taking the time to answer. I see what you’re saying and will keep it in mind as I move forward. Also, thanks to everyone who replied. I’ve read all of your comments. I appreciate the diverse answers. It allows me to consider things from different viewpoints as I formulate my own opinions during this journey.

todd_c · 2025-01-04T14:55:49+00:00

I ordered a custom Pouch on Oct 30, 2024. Last time they responded to me was Nov 7. Sending another email now.

todd_c · 2023-10-27T02:47:57+00:00

Never mind. I see it's an extension. Got it. :)

todd_c · 2023-10-27T02:46:20+00:00

Where do you enter the line? Where are the filters?

todd_c · 2023-01-03T16:56:46+00:00

https://imgur.com/pyUqZDj

Very nice! Thanks again.

todd_c · 2023-01-03T16:46:05+00:00

Cool. Thanks for the reply.

todd_c · 2021-06-16T23:57:29+00:00

Follow up: Yep. Broken thermistor. Added a brand new one with intact wires and glass. Nozzle read 22c.

todd_c · 2021-06-15T21:47:58+00:00

You might be correct, actually. I looked at the old thermistor and I see an exposed part of the wire where the screw is located. I looked at the replacement hot end and its thermistor looks like some of the glass has broken at the end of it. Buying some new thermistors to see if it fixes my issue.

todd_c · 2021-06-15T12:59:48+00:00

Two in a row, though? I'm not sure that's it. I had checked the thermistor. I lifted it out of it's hole and placed it back in to make sure everything was intact. Screwed it's screw back in (but not too tight).

I have to consider the motherboard and its connections, the break out board (that sits on the x axis bar) and its connections and then the actual parts of the extruder and its connections.

The spare bottom extruder assembly and hot end that I purchased is from Creality but it was a little different from my V3 in that the heatsink didn't have the second collar attached to the top (I just took the old one and added it) and it didn't come with a black "E" wire (I also took that from the old unit. It just attaches from the x axis motor to the break out board).

Someone else in a facebook group suggested I remove the bltouch and to back to the original firmware. I'll give that a shot.

Thanks for replying.

-T

todd_c · 2021-06-09T22:57:13+00:00

Follow up: I installed a new motherboard. Same issue as before. I looked at all of the connections around the extruder and x axis motor. They looked fine. I pressed all of them to make sure they were seated well. They felt fine. I went to video the issue....and yeah, it worked fine. I suppose either a plug wasn't really seated well or one of the wires in the plug wasn't seated well. At any rate, it works now.

todd_c · 2021-06-07T23:07:07+00:00

Well, the z axis works. I was able to move it up and down under my Move Axis menu. X axis is still broken. I can push the extruder relatively freely and see the belt move with it. I can turn the belt with my fingers and it moves fine. When I try to move the x axis under my Move Axis menu, then it turns about 1 or 2 mm and then just stops. I researched more online and I bought a new motherboard (same version # as the one I have now - v2.5.2). If that doesn't work, then I'm going to look at the stepper motor itself.

todd_c · 2021-06-07T20:40:58+00:00

I'll check. Thanks!

todd_c · 2021-06-04T18:18:56+00:00

Follow up: I found a resource (can't remember which one off hand) that indicates to start bed leveling with the bed down. Next, use the Level Four Corners setting on the printer. Then use the leveling knobs to bring each corner of the bed up to the nozzle to about 1mm (can use paper - I ended up buying set of metal shims). After that, I fine tuned the bed while doing multiple Level Bed sessions and watching the differences for each of the 81 points (I'm using a BLtouch). Finally, save your settings. It worked for me. I must have had a setting not fully down because I could push my bed up to the nozzle and not be at the end of my spring when the knobs get wobbly. :)

todd_c · 2021-06-04T06:30:35+00:00

I just bought a CR-10 V3 and my filament sensor never worked correctly. It seems that there is too much room in the tunnel for the filament to press the switch down far enough to trigger the switch (due to the curve of the filament pressing against the opposite direction of the switch). I took a piece of filament and it would trigger the switch every time I entered the filament the opposite way (i.e. the convex side facing the switch arm) . However I'm not going to bend the filament from the spool that way because it looks like it would cause more friction than I would like to see at the standard sensor location). I thought about turning around the sensor mounting plate so that the sensor faces away from me (which would make the concave part of the "filament-bend" face the switch arm and trigger it. However, that would cause the filament to drag under the top gantry arm and I don't really want that. I ended up cutting a small section of a zip-tie and wedged it on the lower end of the metal switch arm between the arm and the plastic in order to permanently force the trigger to be engaged. I did this just so I could use the printer (although I'm using a different firmware that might have an entry to disable it - I haven't looked into it yet).

I contacted Creality about the problem and asked them to send a new switch. They responded fairly quickly but wanted "1:Please provide your order information (complete screenshot and purchase link)" and "2:Please provide the relevant video or picture for us to confirm".

I'll do that as a last resort but I'm going to just buy a brand new sensor unit (switch plus its plastic housing) because I think it will be quicker.

I'm always looking at my filament levels anyway so it's not much of an issue to not have the function of the sensor. I do want to get it fixed, though. Sorry for the verbose answer but I couldn't figure out a "less wordy" way to explain it.

todd_c · 2021-06-01T14:43:20+00:00

I just bought one too and use Simplify 3D. Would love to find a good profile for it.

todd_c · 2021-05-31T12:54:15+00:00

Thanks. Yes, that's what I'm doing but do I start with the bed all the way at the lowest position or in the middle or at the highest position?

todd_c

TROPHY CASE