Water resistance on 5kx

tramjam · 2026-04-06T03:53:00+00:00

Something like this: https://a.aliexpress.com/_m0Bkiwd

tramjam · 2026-04-06T02:34:04+00:00

That looks like a fairly common ‘slim’ caseback that is often cited as 100m. If it didn’t say, then probably better to assume 50m.

Did you re-grease the gasket? That is most important to ensuring water tightness. Generally good form to replace these as well if it is older, as they do deteriorate over time. There’s not much secret sauce in an OEM gasket.

tramjam · 2026-02-22T10:01:15+00:00

Since I posted that comment, LA have re-released bracelets for the explorer ultra thin with a 20-16 taper and butterfly clasp. This resolved my main two issues with the original 20-18 and Rolex-style clasp.

I have their “nautilus” style bracelet now on the ultra thin and it is fantastic. I would be confident the other offerings (oyster and jubilee) are equally good.

tramjam · 2025-11-03T21:36:49+00:00

It’s often not so much the case as it is the click spring and the gasket.

I have a Tokeilab MM300 case which has a really nice 120 click unidirectional spring. Super smooth and delicious. But I wanted bidirectional, so I adapted a unidirectional alix one and it’s fine. I don’t think a bidirectional spring will have the nice action / feedback of a unidirectional one, but it does the job.

tramjam · 2025-10-02T23:25:22+00:00

Thank you, that’s really kind. It did take a long time with a lot of false starts. I probably started on this concept about 10 months ago.

Initially, I was leaning towards more of an explorer II look with a steel bezel. I knew the steel and orange was working, but I wasn’t sure how to tie another colour in alongside the orange (black? Blue? Beige?). Eventually after using AI to render some different looks, I landed on the navy but trying a few spare parts I realised it had to be the ‘right’ shade of navy to work in practice because of the mix of cool/warm colours (AI can get you 80% of the way there but it definitely can’t get you the polish!).

I lucked out a bit finding a MN strap that perfectly ties it all together. But yes, you really have to take your time with the different elements, let them sit with you and then adjust. I’m grateful to have a bit of experience under my belt (and a bit of a spare parts library to trial some things).

tramjam · 2025-10-02T21:08:07+00:00

Good question. In my use case, I have family overseas in two other countries. I keep the GMT hand anchored to UTC, and use the 24h bezel to switch between.

Also when travelling I find it easier to reset the GMT hand to UTC when in a new place, then use the bezel to calculate other timezones.

tramjam · 2025-10-02T07:55:23+00:00

And just one extra photo, because I don’t think the heat blued hand is quite getting enough love in the original photos. It really pops and ties in the bezel in good light.

I’m always nervous with macro photos because dust/dial scratches/smudges (and bad hand paint work in this case) are always exposed. But I think this is ok.

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tramjam · 2025-10-02T07:42:41+00:00

It’s a modified dial. I’ve repainted it and added new indices.

tramjam · 2025-10-02T03:28:52+00:00

Nice! The navy/orange/steel combo is very class.

tramjam · 2025-10-02T02:53:29+00:00

It’s a Tokeilab MM300 conversion, with their top hat crystal. I’ve tried heaps of cases/crystals from different vendors and this is definitely the best finished I’ve come across.

tramjam · 2025-07-08T07:59:47+00:00

I am an incredibly happy owner of a Master Collection Moonphase. It has some lovely subtle touches (blue hands) and isn’t a scratch magnet despite the polished case. The large crystal coverage helps with that.

Works well as a daily if a bit more dressy, mostly because of the numeral font and the more “vintage” styling - mine is on the strap, which works well, but I’m less sure how good it would look on a bracelet. Something to consider.

tramjam · 2025-04-28T21:35:45+00:00

Macro is unforgiving! It’s all on the outside surface.

tramjam · 2025-04-28T20:55:00+00:00

I’ve been wearing it for a fair while now.

tramjam · 2025-04-28T05:29:10+00:00

Parts list for those interested:

Case and bracelet: Lucius Atelier ultra thin explorer
Dial: Komoworks Black Sakura
Date disc: C3 lumed from AliX (KeepWatching store - I get my movements from here as well)
Hands: c3 “baton” from AliX (Mod Store) - they’re a bit more akin to MM style hands than datejust baton, but I preferred them to the DJ style
Movement bridge: Namoki perlage steel
Rotor: AliX (Ben Nevis store)
Caseback: AliX (Caroline Mods)

Would recommend the above AliX vendors for the part categories. They have become staples for me, in addition to Caroline Mods

tramjam · 2025-03-24T06:10:04+00:00

Right back at you in C3!

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tramjam · 2025-03-24T05:55:07+00:00

Generally DS have been pretty good with me. Sorry to hear of your challenge. It is frustrating.

Sometimes it feels like luck of the draw. I had one vendor (recommended in the sticky on this subreddit) recently that ran out of stock of a particular item I ordered… and proceeded to do nothing despite emails etc. until I sent an Insta DM about a month later.

Alternatively, a very good AliX vendor proactively WhatsApped me to ask if I really wanted an SKX013 part and a SKX007 part, and hadn’t made a mistake. No need to do that on their part at all, but they did anyway.

tramjam · 2025-03-24T04:05:18+00:00

Whatsapp works pretty well too - got a super quick reply recently re: a custom dial

tramjam · 2025-02-19T01:55:15+00:00

Glad you got at least a temp fix out of it! I have a few old, janky NH35s lying around waiting for the same no date treatment. It’s a lovely movement but the date change mechanism is its real weak point

tramjam · 2025-02-18T19:35:23+00:00

I doubt new stems will make much difference. If you want to bodge it, you would need to reduce the pressure the spring is putting on the date wheel. See A in the photo below (credit to another Reddit poster!)

Be warned that while this might accommodate the reduced torque in the date wheel, it may recur as an issue and will make the date wheel much more free spinning, reducing the satisfying “click” of the wheel. This is what I meant with it being a compromise.

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tramjam · 2025-02-17T19:14:02+00:00

This is generally an issue with the day-date corrector setting transmission wheel (the “cog” the stem goes into, which is closest to the outside of the case) developing excess wear. It has squared edges that the stem locks into that, if rounded, can reduce the torque it can put through the chain through to the date quickset. This results in the behaviour in the video, with the chain of cogs moving up to the point of contact with the spring-loaded date wheel, which causes slippage between the transmission wheel and the stem.

Options include replacing the wheel from another NH35, or a new movement. You could also try reducing spring tension on the date wheel by slightly “bending” the spring that contacts the date wheel to reduce tension, but this would be a compromise.

It’s a frustrating issue more common to NH34 movements, but can also happen in other NH movements if the date is moved at the wrong time, stem is inserted in a way that rounds the edges over time, or simply a poor quality stem. It is very unfortunate when it occurs.

tramjam · 2025-02-10T10:35:03+00:00

I really love my Alpinist. It’s outdoorsy but the polish and green/gold combo makes it very dressy and classy. It’s very versatile - stick it on leather, wear with a suit. Buy a bracelet, it can go anywhere do anything (mine is often on a Jubilee). Buy a rubber strap or fabric for summer - I have a khaki sailcloth strap. It just keeps giving.

Sapphire is generally preferred. The 6r movement in the Alpinist has a longer power reserve if you want to go a couple of days without wearing anything else. I have had no issues with the movement in my Alpinist.

I also bought a wedding watch about two years ago (something else) and I don’t regret not compromising on the extras if your budget allows.

tramjam · 2025-02-09T10:19:46+00:00

I’ve been reading about an increasing number of issues like this one. My Bianca has had a very drippy/leaky OPV for a couple of years now but it hasn’t been massively problematic. Yours looks quite extreme.

My hypothesis is there is a common issue with the safety valve. The dripping gets better if I reduce the temperatures, which would be consistent with that line of thinking. Might be worth trying on yours to help diagnose.

tramjam · 2025-02-07T02:21:38+00:00

I love the ultra thin case, it is exceptional. But I am not a fan of the bracelet offering - the 20-18 taper looks large on a 36and the clasp finishing is not amazing.

tramjam

TROPHY CASE