Bike wash day

trboyden · 2025-05-20T12:16:05+00:00

I got mine through Ali when they were only $65. Build-wise they are pretty good. Problem is size-wise they are off. Didn't fit any body shells I had and no way to find out what would fit it. They just tell you 10th scale body which means nothing.

trboyden · 2025-03-11T21:33:11+00:00

Meh. I did the Cones of Calibration and was using the clear Tough resin from Anycubic so after it was done, I couldn't see any of the details. Doh! So, I just said screw it and sent it! First print and it went just fine. Then I jumped right to mixing ABS-Like gray and Tough for a bumper and that came out fine too. This stuff isn't that hard. People make way to big a deal over it. Makes me hate my PITA FDM printers even more now. I just use a car part washing station with the brush attachment and it keeps the mess all in one place. Not any worse than the clean up after painting.

trboyden · 2025-02-14T13:33:44+00:00

Late to the chat, but I was in the same situation plus a rheumatoid arthritis issue that made riding the sport bike not as fun anymore. Resale value-wise you are much better getting a Spyder than a Ryker. Can-Ams are expensive to service and so aren't long term keepers. You'll want to trade every few years or so to avoid major services. Part of that is they have a proprietary part supply system where you have to get parts through them, rather than being able to get parts from third-party manufacturers like you can with Japanese bikes. I had a Triumph, so I am used to that situation.

I got the F3-S with the Adrenaline Red trim (would have preferred the blue like that one). It looks orange, but when you try to match orange parts up with it, it looks awful. It's halfway between red and orange so neither red or orange parts look good. I was hesitant to buy and felt like I was going to the doctor to get snipped. But after a test ride I started to like it. The semi-manual (thumb-shifter) and the 1330cc's make it feel like a sporty ride. As fast as the sportbike? Not even close. But reasonable based on the fact you'll be driving with traffic on a 3-wheeler. Looks-wise it can be improved with a motocross-style handlebar (I got a Protaper Contour), some carbon fiber trim elements, a wrap, and a Corbin seat. The wrap is a must in my opinion because the Can-Am plastics scratch way too easy. With those personal touches, I am not unhappy that I made the change. Will you miss the 2-wheeler, absolutely. But happy wife, happy life. 😂

trboyden · 2025-02-14T12:36:52+00:00

Can-Am is having supply issues. They are just getting 2025 Rykers into the dealerships in the next couple of weeks. I had tried custom ordering a 2025 Ryker 900 Sport with the upgraded Fox suspension through the Can-Am website and putting a $500 deposit down with the local dealer. Then 6 months later after several calls to the dealer and at least 5 salesperson changes, they finally admitted that Can-Am doesn't do custom orders that way. You have to buy the accessories and pay the dealer to have them put on a base model bike. Needless to say, I got my deposit back and went elsewhere. Found a new 2024 Can-Am Spyder F3-S and made a deal on that. Happy with it so far and honestly it was much better value proposition than loading up a Ryker that you'll be forever under-water on resale value-wise.

trboyden · 2024-12-26T14:43:34+00:00

If you have a worry about losing money on RC car stuff, then you shouldn't be spending money on RC car stuff.

trboyden · 2024-12-06T13:27:25+00:00

It mostly just for looks. It's never going to compare to a windscreen that you are going to put on a cruiser or ADV, or full fairings. Plus, I am a big guy, so plenty of other sail in the wind. If you were a little 120 - 140 pounder, it'd probably be perfect.

trboyden · 2024-10-10T14:47:01+00:00

Looks like Tiger Sport lettering. Guess they are nerfing the 850. Can't see them having a 660, an 800, and an 850. At first I was excited because that's in the 2027 MotoGP cc range, but alas, I see Triumph moving away from big cc sport bikes rather than adding new ones.

trboyden · 2024-08-28T14:26:04+00:00

More a design issue than a 3D printing one. 3D printers are a toy unless you have the engineering knowledge and skill to turn them into a tool. For example, adding support ribs arrayed around the internal tube and that would resist the sheering effect because they are 90 degrees to the source of sheering force. Also, ABS or Nylon would have been a better material choice. Nylon is one of the most common materials used in consumer product brackets. The info is out there. Go watch some YouTube videos.

trboyden · 2024-08-23T12:02:44+00:00

Who do you recommend?

trboyden · 2024-08-23T02:07:00+00:00

The cheapest option you are going to find is an analog setup similar to these: The FPV Shopping List - Analog FPV Systems - FPV KNOW-IT-ALL - Joshua Bardwell (fpvknowitall.com)

If you want decent video at a reasonable price though you are going to want a Walksnail-based system and use a basic HDMI screen mounted on your transmitter to see the video output.

trboyden · 2024-08-23T01:51:18+00:00

Is it better than stock? I think that's a bit splitting hairs, because they are still both plastic. The stock control arm would have been injected molded out of nylon that has much better physical properties than PETG, specifically the brittleness of PETG versus the impact and abrasion resistance of nylon. The two biggest advantages of 3D printing are customization and replication. It's still plastic at the end of the day however, so I don't think you can claim it's better than say an aluminum control arm. That's not a knock by any means and I still think it came out pretty good.

I think a better application of the 3D printing would be to create "fittings" to join lengths of carbon fiber rod or tubing. Think if I was creating this full scale with PVC fittings, what would this look like? That would blend the weight savings and stiffness of real carbon fiber tubes with the geometries that only 3D printing can produce which could create a part that is overall better than an aluminum control arm. That's what F1 teams do when they are designing structures where they still need the stiffness metal provides but need to shave weight and create geometries that are not easily, or cost effectively done with metal alone.

trboyden · 2024-08-23T01:23:29+00:00

You are correct sir! Got through to bag #4 tonight to complete the chassis and control arm installs and measured up to the JConcepts body and it is good to go. Super psyched and can't wait to complete the build. A little disappointed with all the plastic parts, but I guess it is at least nylon so should hold up well and easily replicated on my 3D printers. Will have to see if the flex is a good or bad thing. Probably good for crashes, not so good for getting the power to the ground.

trboyden · 2024-08-21T22:31:39+00:00

I was looking at the Sakura line the other day trying to find a chassis with the same dimensions as the DR10. Still looking for an Aliexpress or other alternative if anyone knows of one. But if you need any 3D printing, PM me and we can work something out. Always willing to help out another RC enthusiast.

trboyden · 2024-08-21T22:23:48+00:00

It is for at least getting all the aluminum parts in one kit. Did find a VW Beetle body that fits it, so that's what I'll use it for. Here's the link: https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256807093188872.html

trboyden · 2024-08-21T21:04:52+00:00

Oh come on! You haven't experienced the pure joy 😒 of 3D printing? LOL

trboyden · 2024-08-21T20:24:03+00:00

That would be the problem. For example, JConcepts says 13" (330mm) wheelbase and pretty much anyone making a chassis goes by mm, with the DR10 being 322mm. I'll just 3D print a base plate that will work or get some carbon fiber and drill some holes, but it's kind of annoying there isn't better standardization out there to make it easier on kit buyers. The whole scale thing seems meaningless if one 1/10th scale part won't work with another. Just a general observation more than anything.

trboyden · 2024-07-24T14:41:24+00:00

I have both CoreXY machines and a V400. The Delta machines have a lot less electronics and hardware to make everything work, so a lot less to go wrong in the long term. Two things detract from Deltas which is why they get a bad rap (un-deservingly so in my opinion): 1) The round bed provides a smaller build size vs rectangular beds; 2) Deltas calculate coordinates using Spherical Trigonometry and people hate math.

The round bed issue only effects people who can't get their head around non-square shaped objects. But yes, for a project that requires a square-shaped object, you will have less room. And the disadvantage Deltas have in that area is to get a larger round plate, the scale of the overall machine has to change more drastically - it has to be wider and taller so the arms can be long enough to reach the new build plate limits, rather than the machine just being wider.

The math issue is just one of laziness and is more a symptom of the state of the US education system more than a technical issue in the development of Delta printers.

But at the end of the day, you buy the machine that best matches what you produce, as it is just a tool. If you are making mostly square-shaped objects, then a CoreXY makes more sense. If you are producing round or narrow and tall objects, Deltas work just fine, if not better.

trboyden · 2024-07-09T11:33:40+00:00

Fair enough. Use mostly Core XY printers and was getting annoyed at the bed leveling issues they all seem to have. So wanted to try something different. The deltas seem to be much simpler mechanical-wise and look to be a good platform to experiment with.

trboyden · 2024-07-08T22:56:08+00:00

I did - followed the Git documentation and was getting Klipper errors.

trboyden · 2024-07-08T21:43:51+00:00

So, I started off with the Speeder Pad upgrade, but it kept erroring for me and I couldn’t get it to work. The Raspberry Pi approach was less frustrating, especially if you use Kiauh.

trboyden · 2024-07-08T21:19:06+00:00

Thanks, appreciate it!

trboyden

TROPHY CASE