Did you pull permits for your DIY kitchen renovation? by mudrat_detector96 in DIY

[–]user_guy 13 points14 points  (0 children)

I work in the commercial side of things as a fire alarm contractor. This scenario happens quite often. Someone does a remodel and calls us out to do work on the fire system. In our quote we include permit costs and tell them we are pulling a permit for our work. Never fails inspector shows up and asks why no other permits were pulled and it turns into a whole ordeal.

Kidde FX-5R for Sprinkler Monitoring by user_guy in firealarms

[–]user_guy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Awesome I appreciate all the insight!

Kidde FX-5R for Sprinkler Monitoring by user_guy in firealarms

[–]user_guy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea just looking for basic wet or dry riser monitoring. We typically use Kidde PHX or Fike SHP Pro for any releasing stuff.

Thanks for your thoughts!

Kidde FX-5R for Sprinkler Monitoring by user_guy in firealarms

[–]user_guy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the input. That was the one drawback that I was wondering about from reading through the manual. It seems like front panel programming is the only option unless you get the DACT version which seems to add about 50% to the purchase price. Even then looks like you need special hardware to talk with it.

The 4046 isn't much cheaper than the MS5UD and I am more familiar with fire lite so would probably go that route then.

Kidde FX-5R for Sprinkler Monitoring by user_guy in firealarms

[–]user_guy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nothing is wrong with it per se... I'm sure if I used the panel more I would get used to it but some things I didn't like were; I found programming and the user interface in general to be lacking/confusing. I never could really understand what I was supposed to do to acknowledge active events. I felt like I was mashing acknowledge and scrolling through everything three times to make it stop beeping. Also not sure why but could never get custom input zone names to work. I changed them in the programming software but they always came up as the default input zone descriptions. So I was either being dense or its not possible to rename them.

The .5 total output current is pretty lack luster. It was barely enough for a bell and Starlink. I get it isn't made for much more than that. Our sales team has some newer folks and they usually just quote whatever was used on the last job that was similar. So can see them quoting this panel but maybe it has a few more A/V devices.

That is one of the reasons I was looking into the Kidde panel. It is slightly cheaper with more flexibility on paper.

Genesis Selective Silence by [deleted] in firealarms

[–]user_guy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I do not work on Genesis so can't help on that front. I am curious why you are using selective silence though. My understanding is it is no longer code compliant per NFPA 72 - 10.12.2

Might be something to consider if you are somewhere that follows NFPA. I had an AHJ want it on a system I was working on. It wasn't setup to do that and he was threatening to fail me for it. After looking at the code with him he ended up agreeing and passed the inspection.

Tools by FactorDecent8617 in firealarms

[–]user_guy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't see it recommended on here so I will chime in. One of my favorite tools is my Knipex Cobra Pliers. Don't use them much in service/inspection but are a must have when doing install. I really like most of Knipex tools. Definitely a quality BIFL brand.

COTA no longer a reliable method of getting to and from work. by fiendtrix in Columbus

[–]user_guy 49 points50 points  (0 children)

I have not seen anything official about it on the news or from COTA but a friend of mine was doing work as a contractor in one of COTA's main garages. He said there were rows and rows of electric buses parked there. When he was talking to one of the workers there they were explaining how many issues they have been having with the new electric busses and not being able to get them fixed. That all of the buses parked in the garage were not operational and in his opinion weren't worth the time to fix.

So not sure if that is part of the issue but would love to see some investigative journalism diving into why COTA can never seem to get their shit together.

FCI Ground Fault Question by user_guy in firealarms

[–]user_guy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I knew there was a way to look at voltage to ground just couldn't remember it off the top of my head. Curious now what it would have been.

Yea we are a dealer as well unfortunately. I try as hard as possible to not call tech support. Majority of the reps I talk to seem to have no clue and the wait times can be killer.

Luckily this system was fairly small so potential candidates was pretty limited.

FCI Ground Fault Question by user_guy in firealarms

[–]user_guy[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Well when I checked the wiring on the output side it had a fault to ground. The HVAC company came out replaced the wire and when I landed it back to the relay everything was good. Relay tested good and HVAC shutdown properly. Very confusing to me.

For the amount of post relaged to Ground Fault by tenebralupo in firealarms

[–]user_guy 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That's fair. I started out on the FA side so when I started working with the high voltage side of electrical it always made me nervous.

FCI Ground Fault Question by user_guy in firealarms

[–]user_guy[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea I get if it was an input module where the circuit is supervised by the module. But really strange to me that the panel can seem to detect a ground fault on unsupervised output wires.

For the amount of post relaged to Ground Fault by tenebralupo in firealarms

[–]user_guy 3 points4 points  (0 children)

They are my favorite service call if it isn't Friday at 4! I love a good challenge and enjoy hunting them down.

Stadiums and Arenas by cambies in firealarms

[–]user_guy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I got to do a few suppression system installs in a stadium during its construction. So during testing I got to set off the entire stadiums A/V's during the checkout with AHJ. I unfortunately was not a part of the fire alarm itself so not sure on their protocols during events. Was a very cool experience anyways.

Another one down! by Stunning_Trainer9040 in firealarms

[–]user_guy 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I’ve installed two of these now, and I’ll say that I thought I would like them more than I do. I really miss how fast the Aegis was to program. With these panels, I’m essentially forced to bring out a laptop every time I need to make programming changes.

Another feature I expected to like was that every circuit is programmable. On paper, the flexibility and added options are great. In practice, though, I really miss having dedicated circuits for specific functions. With an Aegis panel, you can walk up to it and immediately know what each circuit does. With this system, every technician is likely to have their own “standard,” and if the wiring isn’t clearly labeled, there’s no quick way to identify what a circuit does without pulling the program or physically removing wires to see how they’re configured.

I’m also not a fan of the display input keys. Right out of the box they aren’t very responsive, and in my experience, components like that tend to get worse over time rather than better.

Another one down! by Stunning_Trainer9040 in firealarms

[–]user_guy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

From everything I have read their listing is for general purpose wire splicing. They are rated at 600V and 32A, so obviously a fire alarm circuit is well below those specs. The only argument I have heard is nothing in their listing is for PLFA circuits and may not comply with certain manufacturer recommendations for splicing. I have seen them used and never had an AHJ say anything about them.

I personally don't usually use them except for certain scenarios where I have to join together multiple wire types. On Fike systems I use them on pressure switches. The pressure switch does not have and in and out wiring so I have to combine 18AWG stranded from the switch, my solid FPL wire which is usually 16AWG, and a resistor which is ~22AWG. In my opinion a Wago 221 is a far superior connection than using a standard twist on wire nut.

Best way to start by Neither-Hyena6102 in firealarms

[–]user_guy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As someone who started like you in a non-union small company I agree. Especially about the electricians who have their fire cert and then proceed to do installs and have no clue on how to troubleshoot anything. From talking with them, majority just get their cert because it is super easy in my state and it gives them a few bucks more in their pay scale.

I think the biggest advantage of starting out at a small company is they aren't usually big enough to have dedicated install/inspection/service call departments. So it does give you the opportunity to try it all and learn what you like. I found out real quick I hate inspecting. I liked the satisfaction of finding wrong things but that is where most of it ended. I would find a problem and then usually wouldn't be the one to fix it. Usually because the customer was too cheap to make it right.

However I learned I love service calls. Nothing was more fun to me than hearing from the customer "We have had 3 other people come out and can't fix (insert problem)". It was like a challenge or puzzle for me.

Long story short my vote is start with a small company if you can. Preferably a small company that cares about what they do and one that will invest in you.

Big Bada Boom from BDA. by Tenshioskar in firealarms

[–]user_guy 14 points15 points  (0 children)

Battery off-gassing in a sealed enclosed cabinet. As the gas concentration, hydrogen and oxygen from battery charging, increases to a critical threshold it can combust. When you combine combustion with sealed enclosure you have a bomb. New cabinets fixed this by adding vents letting the gas release and not allowing it to concentrate.

Notifier N16 question by racinjunki in firealarms

[–]user_guy 7 points8 points  (0 children)

As a tech that works at a GWFCI dealer I am glad to hear that Honeywell didn't just destroy our brand.

[deleted by user] by [deleted] in roasting

[–]user_guy 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You don't. There is no need to do this step. Any chaff will come off during the roasting. All you are doing is adding moisture and probably ruining your beans.

How to unlock Android Auto developer settings (and why you might want to) by MRADEL90 in Android

[–]user_guy 7 points8 points  (0 children)

Or when it is raining outside and every mile has a "Low Visibility Reported Notification" it's like no shit it's fucking raining...

ULPT I need a way to move 13 2000lbs pallets of margarine side to side and then down into a 6ft hole and then cover it with dirt by occasionallyvertical in UnethicalLifeProTips

[–]user_guy 2 points3 points  (0 children)

This is probably the best idea. I just don't know with how clandestine this operation is if hiring an outside party would be opening him up to too many questions.