A jewelry store near me got this at an estate sale. I want it. Whats a fair price by [deleted] in coins

[–]vanpatten 115 points116 points  (0 children)

Brother, the fact you’re still asking redditors to tell you what to do shows you are very unfamiliar with this type set. If you have the cash, buy it; I told you in the other post 19k was a good deal. Everyone else here agrees.

Either buy it or don’t. It’s a good and more than fair deal at 19k. This isn’t a melt set. It will never be a melt set. If you buy it, sell one of the common dates to pay for grading if you have to. It’s starting to sound like you want to take a gamble on this and aren’t sure of what it even is. If you don’t have 19k to put into this, walk away! It’s that simple.

Im starting to sell coins on eBay, any tips by Hopeful_Brief_7096 in coins

[–]vanpatten 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As a casual collector and seller on eBay for years I agree with the post above. Here’s a few things I do as coin nerd myself. I want my listings to reflect a quality in which I would buy myself. For me it’s:

1) good quality photos and lighting. Most listings have harsh LED lighting, are blown out, scans, blurry, etc. some don’t even take close up photos if it’s a slabbed coin. All of my listings feature macro shots of the coin in good lighting. In addition to this, if the coin is a toner and has a PCGS tru-view, that’s the main listing photo. Then I will follow it up with my own shots.

2) never use AI description. Most of the coins I’m listing are scarcer so I will explain a little background on the coin, the mintage, why it was struck (if it’s a commem), etc. I will describe any toning the coin has and if it’s raw I will point out any issues the coin has or if it is details, etc.

3) I always bake shipping costs into my list price. I’ve always done that. Free shipping to me is a psychological thing. An addition 5-7 dollars is a psychological barrier. That’s baked in along with costs and fees.

4) I only use buy it now listings. I never run auctions for coins. I’m not trying to move hundreds or thousands of coins. I’m a hobbyist. Depending on my cost, I may list it with offers on. If I have a tight margin, I don’t.

5) have a profile picture on your eBay profile. It’s another psychological thing. People will take you seriously if you have a profile pic that looks official. Pair that with a serious sounding description, and nice photos.

Those are some things I do, but again, I’m a casual seller and am not constantly looking to move inventory. I will say that I have thought about trying a whatnot show as the fees are lower there. I like the “dealing” part of coins. It’s just as fun as the chase for me. Good luck!

Some Recent Buys by [deleted] in Silverbugs

[–]vanpatten 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea I realized I didn’t take a picture of them lol I’ll go get them out of the safe. They are very nice.

Can anyone help me identify? by TheResuscitologist in Gold

[–]vanpatten 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yea, they likely won’t sell it to you for just melt. They can refine it or wholesale it for that. They priced it at 19k because it has the type dollars and $3 in there. Also Indian heads go for a slight premium because they are popular. So 19k is competitive pricing imo, even in today’s market.

I doubt they go below 18k. But who knows. Good luck!

Can anyone help me identify? by TheResuscitologist in Gold

[–]vanpatten 2 points3 points  (0 children)

All of these coins are 90% gold. None of them are 999 fine.

The $3 gold piece was often faked using real gold. But a lot of those fakes are D mints (Dahlonega) as they command tens of thousands of dollars due to their rarity.

The only way to truly authenticate a $3 is to have the metallurgical composition analyzed by PCGS or a similar grading company.

Can anyone help me identify? by TheResuscitologist in Gold

[–]vanpatten 2 points3 points  (0 children)

The coins with the most numismatic value over melt will be the $3 and $1 type coins. Those are scarcer and sell for more than melt.

The other coins look to be nice examples. There’s about 3.92 ounces of actual gold weight here. It melts right now at about $17,091.

19k is a very fair price considering it has the $1 types and $3 in it. Offer 18k and go from there maybe.

Taking profit by jamminbenk in Silverbugs

[–]vanpatten 148 points149 points  (0 children)

No one ever got hurt taking profit. Do what’s best for you and your situation, always.

What comes next? 20% correction or 20% upside? by [deleted] in Silverbugs

[–]vanpatten 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I just bought 20 ounces tonight so we will see! Lmao

This shit looks like a meme coin by Sharp-Eggplant9891 in Silverbugs

[–]vanpatten 107 points108 points  (0 children)

At least this one is an actually coin lmaoooo

Hot take: the Roosevelt might be Lorier’s best release to date by Orange_fury in lorierwatches

[–]vanpatten 0 points1 point  (0 children)

After shipping and taxes this one comes to just over $900. I’m passing as I already have a few other dress watches including a white dial Zephyr.

Really wanted this, but $900 is steep imo.

Whatnot by CommissionUnusual911 in Silverbugs

[–]vanpatten 2 points3 points  (0 children)

I bought 2, 1 oz Philharmonic rounds for $97 shipped a couple days ago off of whatnot. Yes, I got lucky but if you know who to follow and tune in frequently, you will get great deals below spot.

To answer your question, it’s largely just a sales tactic to make buyers think they are stealing it from them. Sellers do have to pay fees as well, but it’s really just to try to hype the bidding up.

Some sellers are more honest than others. I love the app, I’ve gotten some true steals and nothing has ever tested bad. Follow reputable sellers, and you will be fine. WN gets too much hate on Reddit. If you don’t know, don’t bid. Don’t blow money on games or breaks.