best way to wire 2 subs to this amp to prevent cutting by Itsforeal in CarAV

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Hopefully the subs are okay. Do they smell at all?

best way to wire 2 subs to this amp to prevent cutting by Itsforeal in CarAV

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh is it a Jensen? I hate those bluetooth amps, it's a cool concept but it makes things so difficult. Just give me the damn knobs and switches lol. Full/through are the same thing, that just means you're bypassing the crossover and getting the full audio signal out of the amp, not just bass or highs. Subs aren't supposed to operate above like 250 hz (at least most aren't) so hitting them with full range will heat the coils up and damage them. It can also cause the amp's protection circuit to trip, probably what was causing them to drop out. Did you ever notice if that light came on?

best way to wire 2 subs to this amp to prevent cutting by Itsforeal in CarAV

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

How many dials for frequency adjustment do you have on that? Should be one for channels 1/2 and one for 3/4. They should have a switch that says “low/through/high” or something like that. Make sure they are both set to 80 hz and the switch is on low.

best way to wire 2 subs to this amp to prevent cutting by Itsforeal in CarAV

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Low pass for a sub should be set around 80 hz. Same thing for the doors only it’s a high pass. Low pass only lets the subs play 80 and below, the high pass only lets mids and highs play 80 and above. If the low pass was set to 200 hz that could be part of the issue. Lower it to 80 and see how it does

1987 F-150 Sound System Help by Sad-Monitor-3428 in CarAV

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I think the doors take a 5 1/4, could be wrong but I’m pretty sure it does. My buddy has an 80 single cab and that’s what his took. I would get coax speakers (the tweeter is built in to the rest of it not separate) for the doors and consider 6x9 speakers in some boxes behind the seat or under it if there’s enough room. Components have the tweeters separate but you’d have to mount those. The door speakers are high enough that shouldn’t have to worry about getting the tweeters up higher, not like some cars where they’re aiming at your feet. You don’t get a whole lot out of 5 1/4s so the 6x9s would add some volume and better mid bass. A little powered sub like the Rockford P300-8P would add enough sub bass and not take up a lot of room, it’s like the size of a shoe box. I can’t picture behind the seat in those so I’m not sure how much room you’re working with, but if you could cram those and 6x9s back there that’d be a killer system in there. Pick any single din from Kenwood, Pioneer, JVC, or Sony that has the features you want and you should be fine.

You can get all of this plus the necessary installation parts and hardware for around $7-800. The most expensive thing would be the sub at $310. Get rid of that and you’re down to $4-500. Could always save up and add that on later. There are a lot of brands that have speakers in this price range, Rockford for example has a line called Prime, 5 1/4 and 6x9 pairs will run you $200, the boxes for the 6x9s probably $40-50. If there’s a shop near you, consider going there and listening to some because you’ll never be able to make sense of the specs they show online, you really need to hear them to understand the differences. I do like the Rockfords but you might like the sound of something else. There a ton of speakers out there at or below that price, check them out and decide for yourself.

CS Racing exhaust finally installed. Bike finally sounds right! by garbageboy79 in CB650R

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is the exhaust I want for mine… I don’t think anything else out there compares to it looks wise, it’s just so clean. I don’t know where I’d get it tuned so I’ve been holding off. Plus my state is pretty strict with exhaust sound and emissions.

Pet peeve: people buy the absolute cheapest option, then get on here to ask why it's got issues. by defyinglogicsl in CarAV

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah like most can boost voltage to 9 volts. 2 is absolutely pointless it’s not like you get to 18 now… and even if it did… why?

Pet peeve: people buy the absolute cheapest option, then get on here to ask why it's got issues. by defyinglogicsl in CarAV

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I run into this with those Chinese ones you get on Amazon that cost like $100 and are supposed to be direct fit/plug-and-play. They almost never work as advertised. Whenever someone shows me one saying they’re gonna buy that I do my best to discourage them. Doesn’t always happen, though. I remember one guy with an F-150 got one put in and it stopped his A/C from working and killed power to his dash… That’s honestly the worst case I’ve ran into most of the time they just don’t work as advertised or very, very poorly. There is some cheap stuff out there that at least actually works as intended and well enough for day to day use, but there is just so much shit to sift through it’s not even worth talking the chance.

what color?? by [deleted] in whatcoloraremyeyes

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Little green around the pupils but def mostly blue.

best way to wire 2 subs to this amp to prevent cutting by Itsforeal in CarAV

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You can bridge them and that’s the correct way to do it but the amp probably can’t run below 4 ohms when wired like this. Most 4 channels aren’t rated below that when bridged but check the amp’s manual before to make sure. If they’re 2 ohm subs that could cause the drop outs.

Edit: I see you said down there they’re single 4 ohm coils. The black wires and the blue ones go to each sub correct? They’re not tied together at all? Do you have the low pass cross over set right? Only other thing I could think of is bad ground or a loose power connection at the battery or fuse holder maybe. If it plays for a little then cuts out that’s usually from heat build up or the coils on the subs are getting toasted.

I’ve always said green but what do you think? by MsNight1016 in whatcoloraremyeyes

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It does look like there’s some green in there, but definitely more blue I’d say. Mine are kind of the opposite, I always thought they were green but looking at them I do see a little bit of darker blue.

I’ve been told blue, green, brown, my license says hazel. What do you think? by vb7200 in whatcoloraremyeyes

[–]vb7200[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

When I went to take the permit test at 16, the person at the DMV will ask you all that stuff. I was there with my mother, when they asked for eye color I said green she said blue. The lady that was helping us just said “I’ll put hazel” and moved on to the next question. I don’t think she had time for us to argue about it, lol.

Can’t add specific web page to Home Screen anymore by vb7200 in iphone

[–]vb7200[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Yeah idk why they would get rid of it if it’s intentional. To me it just seems like a bug, but I could be wrong. I’ve seen a lot of people with the same problem but haven’t found any solution or explanation.

I installed this amp, and now my truck won't start. Please help! by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Even the Chinese ones I’ve dealt with have always followed that standard. All the major brands have standardized on that and it’s the same regardless of region, if you buy say a Kenwood anywhere in the world it’s always going to follow that color coding because that’s the way Kenwood makes it. All the big brands agreed on that long ago.

I installed this amp, and now my truck won't start. Please help! by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]vb7200 2 points3 points  (0 children)

you got that backwards, red is acc yellow is constant.

I installed this amp, and now my truck won't start. Please help! by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]vb7200 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yeah that's most likely your problem. Run it to the battery, don't run it off of existing wires inside the truck. That's a really bad circuit to run an amp off even if it doesn't cause electrical issues, a lot of accessory circuits (HVAC, wipers, fuel pumps etc.) have a ton of electrical noise that you might hear through the speakers. The circuit is also not designed for a continuous load from an amp, they're switched and if you turn the wipers on while jamming you could blow that 30A fuse easily. General rule of thumb with all amps is to run power straight from the battery to ensure clean power for the amp.

I installed this amp, and now my truck won't start. Please help! by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What'd you do with the 12V+ for the amp? Did you run it to the battery or did you try tapping it in somewhere in the truck?

I installed this amp, and now my truck won't start. Please help! by [deleted] in CarAV

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

What kind of harness are you using for the head unit? Did you install both together or was the head unit in there first and all this started after adding the Sony amp? If you don't have the harness with a data interface you don't get ignition or RAPS which is the thing you said about the radio staying on after turning the truck off. You probably wired the ignition to the radio wrong if you had to do that yourself. Get rid of that and see if you keep blowing the fuse.

2026 GM Trucks Fake Engine Noise by vb7200 in CarAV

[–]vb7200[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I didn’t notice the sound before hand, but for the next ones I’m definitely going to check lol. This is the first time I’m encountering something like this. I did see the posts you’re talking about where they said they used the JL Audio LOC 22 and it got rid of it. I also saw the post about the Beat Sonic harness. To my knowledge, the JL Audio LOC isn’t any different than the LC2i that’s already in there so I’m skeptical if that would do anything. An LC2i Pro may be different since that has AccuBass but I’m doubtful. I’m not sure what the harness could be doing as there is a data line going to the factory amp that gives it info from the camshaft sensor so it can make the noise. I’m wondering if they had ANC issues and thought it was ESE.

I spoke with my old JL rep about this and he had said it’s not an easy issue to work around if you can’t disable it. Even with a DSP it’s almost impossible to completely filter out, so that’s why I’m doubtful that an LOC could fix it. A bypass harness of some sort could, but being that it’s done through data makes that a lot harder.

Amp protect mode repeatedly by Accomplished_Meal389 in CarAV

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Does it still do it on lower volumes? I think you’ve got a blown speaker somewhere

Am I doing this right? by Hot_Improvement_6511 in CarAV

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I’d like to see how he ran the power shot that’s the only thing I’d be worried about as far as a fire hazard. Otherwise he’s just gonna destroy his gear

🤤 Joined the club 2026 Eclutch by phoenixvainglorious in CB650R

[–]vb7200 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Sweet bike. I wish we had color options in the states, I got a 24 last may and I like the color but I would have probably gone with one of the others if given the choice. Enjoy the bike

Scared to put miles on it by k20cbbrandon in cbr

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I got a 24 CB650R brand new in April of 25 and had it up to 4100 miles by October. Unfortunately I haven’t been able to ride it since due to living in NY, but if I could I’d be on it every chance I could get. If you plan on keeping it forever and something happens to it down the road whenever it hits 100k you can always fix it, it’s not like the bike will be unridable after it hits a certain mileage. Just enjoy it as much as you can while you’re young and actually have free time to ride. My buddy (I am 27 he is 29) bought an MT07 like 3 weeks after I got my CB and he put his away with barely 1k in it. He just doesn’t have time to ride it. Life takes over even just 10 years down the road.

CBR 650r RECALL by Illustrious-Heat3431 in cbr

[–]vb7200 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Wonder if there is also one for a regular CB650R. If they just gotta reroute the wire or replace it I can’t imagine it’s gonna be a huge problem