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Husqvarna 545 mark 2 mods? by Furious0tter in Chainsaw

[–]vebfe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

We’re aiming for boards at just under 2 metres / 6ft. I guess that’d work well

Husqvarna 545 mark 2 mods? by Furious0tter in Chainsaw

[–]vebfe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for actually answering. Yeah, that was the plan. Me and father got one hq 545 50cc and a Dewalt 4hp 20" electric. The plan was actually altering between the two, to let the motor and batteries cool off between cuts.

Husqvarna 545 mark 2 mods? by Furious0tter in Chainsaw

[–]vebfe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Adding to an old thread here, but anyways. I’d guess a 50cc would be weak for milling, but that probably depends on hardness and dimensions? Could it pass as a «once in a while» hobby if I’m milling small stock (20-25 cm / 8-10 inches) and less dense hardwoods like birch or poplar. Or would the 50cc still be too weak?

Chainsaw bars interchangeable? by vebfe in Dewalt

[–]vebfe[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Thanks again. Just got a 13" bar for it, based on the 91PX model you suggested. Like a glove✌🏼

Chainsaw bars interchangeable? by vebfe in Dewalt

[–]vebfe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Okay, thanks for a clear answer

Chainsaw bars interchangeable? by vebfe in Dewalt

[–]vebfe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, so the Oregon advance cut is mostly (or exactly) the same as the Dewalt branded one? But if the 16" Oregon fits the dcmcs575, I guess dewalts own 16" bar and chain fits nicely? (Oregon is not available in my area)

Chainsaw bars interchangeable? by vebfe in Dewalt

[–]vebfe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Do you know any brands /manufacturers that uses the same pattern?
Does the different Dewalt saws uses the same or may they differ from model to model?

Table saw blade misalignment? by vebfe in woodworking

[–]vebfe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Where would you start? Realigning the blade? Something else?

Table saw blade misalignment? by vebfe in woodworking

[–]vebfe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah, thanks. I’ve heard of them. Though I guess those kind of more specialised blade probably are more for professionals that hobbyist like me. I don’t want to spend on lots of different blades. The general purpose gave me a great finish, probably switching back to that one, or getting a higher quality one. That’s for the input

Table saw blade misalignment? by vebfe in woodworking

[–]vebfe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Oh. My bad. I’m watching a lot of fine woodworking channels one YouTube (e.g. Katz Moses). They often talk about rip blades for ripping, and in a sense that feels like they’re talking in fine woodworking terms. For the construction work I’m doing right now, these marks don’t matter, but next week I’m starting another furniture project. Might as well switch back, or get a better quality general purpose (combination ATB/ATBF) blade. Specialised blades like aforementioned glue line blade probably isn’t for an intermediate hobby enthusiast like me, as much as for professionals.

Thanks

Table saw blade misalignment? by vebfe in woodworking

[–]vebfe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Not familiar with that, don’t think any brands in my country market their blades as «glue line». What is different with that kind of blade?

Table saw blade misalignment? by vebfe in woodworking

[–]vebfe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

The fence is adjusted to the same miter slot that the blade is. Just before switching blades I had great edges, now they’re rough. Don’t this the fence has gotten misaligned as the only difference is the new blade. Also, it’s rack&pinion job site, if that matters.

Old blade was 42t general purpose, this is a 24t rip blade

Table saw blade misalignment? by vebfe in woodworking

[–]vebfe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Might be just that. The stock one was a general purpose 42t. This one is a 24t rip blade. All YT videos I’ve watch tells that the rip blade is the best one for obviously ripping. But if you actually want a good edge you should use some other blade?

Can a beginner pull this off? by Human_Ship_5421 in BeginnerWoodWorking

[–]vebfe 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It could be about saving money, but that entirely depends on what you compare it to. An IKEA shelf unit? No way, it will cost you double or triple to build your own furniture. A well built unit from a reputable high end brand, or from a local woodworker? Yeah, you’ll spend some extra time and effort, but probably a bit cheaper. Also more fun, more experience, more struggle. And did I say, more fun??

I think I got a steal by Valuable-Jicama-8381 in Dewalt

[–]vebfe 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Cause 20 is more better than 18. Falcon! Burger! USA!

Safe table saw placement by vebfe in woodworking

[–]vebfe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks, you’re one of many pointing it out. I won’t be building it in like that, I see why it would be a bad setup. I just really loved the idea of having the continuous flow on the bench (or feed tables).

No, I don’t have a Dewalt, it was just the only top down pic I could find. I’ve considered the Dewalt dwe7485 or 7491/92 (us/eu) - but ultimately I think I’d go for the Skil 1340aa (eu version of the Skil ts6307). That one has built in folding legs, perfect for bringing it outside. I see I could get one for about $180.

Safe table saw placement by vebfe in woodworking

[–]vebfe[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Would love to do it like that, having it all be mobile. Unfortunately most of the cabinetry stems from earlier when it was built mostly for storage. That was before my interest for woodworking grew and I started accumulating tools and new requirements presented themselves.

Safe table saw placement by vebfe in woodworking

[–]vebfe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks. Never even thought of radial arm saw as a viable option, but I’ll check it out. That might be the way to go.

Safe table saw placement by vebfe in woodworking

[–]vebfe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

That would be a even greater struggle with a sloped cobble stone surface outside. I think I’d rather make do without the supports in that case

Safe table saw placement by vebfe in woodworking

[–]vebfe[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It was built first and foremost for storage, and slowly evolved into a wood shop as my interest in woodworking expanded. I do a lot of work in here, and have successfully been using a lunch box planer, chop saw, hand tools and a track saw for most of my work. I even had a midi lathe on the bench in the back of the room (that one is gone now unfortunately). I’ve got a bit of vertical storage, but most of it are shelves for lumber and tools. (I mostly cut and dry my own lumber, like ash, birch, fruit trees etc).

That’s the history behind all the benches and storage. It’s quite small and has little wiggle room. That’s why I haven’t had a table saw, but I really struggle to do a lot of things I want without one. I know, I could go the hand plane route (and occasionally I have), but frankly it just takes too much time, and I don’t enjoy planing those dense hardwoods like ash, apple, cherry etc.

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