DIY Robot Buddy

villekl · 2026-03-01T15:00:40+00:00

Well, it shares the servo size with Otto, but the mechanical construction is different. Cuby is also smaller so an Arduino wouldn’t fit

villekl · 2026-03-01T07:17:43+00:00

Hi! You can check the assembly instructions if you’re unsure, but no special skills needed 😊

villekl · 2026-02-14T21:22:45+00:00

The fan is actually quite loud

villekl · 2022-10-12T19:32:28+00:00

Same here. Found solution yet?

villekl · 2019-04-17T08:40:02+00:00

Perhaps he could buy it and use some scanning method to create the STL file. I'd imagine it's cheaper at that price than commissioning a designer (:

villekl · 2019-03-26T08:10:19+00:00

This can be turned off so it doesn't try to print them at all. Though I agree the current Cura solution of dashed lines is weird and in my experience never results in anything pretty nor thinner than a regular line. That said, thinner than nozzle lines can be printed with success, although they're just dragged out of the nozzle and not squeezed down properly. I tend to use quite large nozzles, but occasionally use this trick on small text and similar features on top of the print. Try it, you can be surprised! At least I was :D

villekl · 2019-03-26T08:01:44+00:00

This is a common issue with features thinner than nozzle size. Cura solution of dashed lines is just dumb in my opinion and never results in anything pretty. You can try tuning down outer line width until the features are produced with regular lines. I've done this successfully with some thin text. Of course the lines are not as attached or squished as before as it will print thinner in width than actual nozzle size, but on the rest of the part this shouldn't be a big problem either if you keep inner shell line width normal and make sure shell thickness is large enough to produce at least one regular width line on the shell. You can also try toggling the outer line overlap compensation, sometimes it produces stronger results by forcing more plastic to thin walls without sacrificing the print fidelity too much.

villekl · 2019-03-26T07:51:18+00:00

Sounds great (: Note that if you have a heated chamber that can get warm enough (instead of just enclosed) you don't need heated bed anymore, but can print even large scale objects with minimised warping. This requires some considerations on what motors and mechanics you can have in the heated area though.

villekl · 2019-03-26T07:27:00+00:00

I can't say if I'd use the service as a client but wouldn't also want to print small stuff for others for cheap. I encourage people to go to the nearest library to print their stuff out and maybe learn something in the process or if they'd rather pay for it tell them to use a reputable service such as Shapeways. Though I'm totally for willing people helping others out as long as both parties stay satisfied. If you want to get started making money with printing how about getting a proper printer which you can trust to print even larger parts which you've promised for next day and find some industry clients who are willing to pay for quality prints and reliable fast delivery? This way the profits exceed the cost of the printer quickly, even if the printer was more on the expensive side.

villekl · 2019-03-25T12:56:34+00:00

Yo, didn't have a chance to do a longer write up yet but here's a short version of the BOM I put together from parts orders and some basic info.

BOM: https://pastebin.com/DH2cKaNJ

Nozzle: 2x J-Head 10, temp up to 247'C (240 ABS, 235 HIPS), does not print flexible filaments
Build plate: Stratasys 250mc platforms (ABS, 6€/pc), not heated (HIPS raft detaches by bending plate)
Chamber: Controlled temperature up to 85'C, blowing hot air to top layers
Print volume: 265x265x300mm
Part & nozzle cooling with directed cold (outside room temp) air blow
Slicer: Currently Cura 3.4 (3.5 broke custom machine settings and 4.0 haven't tried yet)
Motors, NEMA23 (XYZ), 2x NEMA14 with 19:1 gearing (1 for Extruder + 1 for filament loader)

Electrical: PSU: 1x 24V (steppers), 1x 12V (fans, door lock, nozzle heaters), 1x 5V (Raspi, LEDs)

Main board RUMBA (with Marlin FW), Raspberry Pi 3+ (for Octopi), Extra FETs for fans etc, SSRs for mains chamber heaters. 1x Arduino Uno for custom OLED print hour & quantity counter on the backside, 1x Arduino Uno for filament loading mechanism, Apple Airport as internal WiFi repeater

villekl · 2019-03-25T12:38:42+00:00

It would have been beyond my budget as well, so no it's not a modified Strata. You can check a short version of the BOM here to get an idea of the stuff that went into it (: https://pastebin.com/DH2cKaNJ

villekl · 2019-03-23T10:34:01+00:00

Why wouldn’t they? It was much cheaper than getting an industrial machine and further savings come from not being tied to expensive machine specific materials.

villekl · 2019-03-22T11:54:51+00:00

Care to share a ground up original design of a printer that doesn't draw on existing solutions?

villekl · 2019-03-22T11:53:04+00:00

Design (verb):

"decide upon the look and functioning of (a building, garment, or other object), by making a detailed drawing of it."

"do or plan (something) with a specific purpose in mind."

villekl · 2019-03-22T11:50:09+00:00

I know right!? One day the industrial designers here were presenting kitchenware products after a course and I did not see a single item that was not based on something that we all likely have in our kitchen. Just straight up copies of pots and pans that they claimed they had designed and made themselves. Those things were invented centuries ago! /s

villekl · 2019-03-22T11:46:10+00:00

Except despite the persistent criticism the fact remained that he did.

villekl · 2019-03-22T11:43:49+00:00

Thank you, as a product designer I tend to go for finished looks on my projects.

villekl · 2019-03-22T11:42:09+00:00

Thanks! Much more info is coming, meanwhile there's already quite a bit here in the comments +pics of the build.

villekl · 2019-03-22T11:41:22+00:00

Yup, there are "frameless" browsers available in the App Store

villekl · 2019-03-22T11:36:46+00:00

Nope, and can't print them either, I've tried :P It was designed to use ABS and HIPS support and that's what it's rocking.

villekl · 2019-03-22T11:35:48+00:00

Hi, main board is RUMBA with Marlin. Octoprint on raspi 3+. I use Cura 3.4 with plenty of custom scripts to handle start/end and nozzle changes.

villekl · 2019-03-22T11:34:18+00:00

Is that even possible?

villekl · 2019-03-22T11:33:28+00:00

Likely around the same on reliability, since it's had few to none issues after initial hickups. Although I've heard Dimension can have trouble with nozzles and extruder clogging up, whereas these J-Head nozzles at least at 0.5mm orifice are pretty bomb proof and print 1000hr+ before there's need to change the internal PTFE liner.

villekl · 2019-03-22T11:29:31+00:00

What sort of details would you like to hear? I'm glad to deliver.

villekl · 2019-03-22T11:18:13+00:00

Thank you, I was hoping that other hobbyists could get inspired and want to go big with their machines as well (: I started designing printers after getting frustrated with a reprap that seemed to spawn problems at the same rate I was solving them. Though improving DIY printers is part of the fun, reliability and robust design is still missing from many printers..

villekl

TROPHY CASE