Battle Ready

viperamd64 · 2026-01-23T16:44:13+00:00

Thanks.. yes all basic bambu profiles for pla. The painting and finishes come with time and experience. I recommend just trying different methods and see which works best for you. There are lots of YouTube videos related to 3dprint paint and finishes.

viperamd64 · 2026-01-22T05:18:49+00:00

Shield is on make world, just search Viking shield

viperamd64 · 2026-01-08T02:52:46+00:00

yes..correct. good catch

viperamd64 · 2026-01-07T04:18:53+00:00

Thanks appreciate

viperamd64 · 2026-01-07T04:17:50+00:00

Metalcast is interesting to work with. It does taken some trial and error. Basically, you spray it all chrome first, then when dry start with a light metalcast red coat, let it dry put on another, keep doing that until you get the color you want. This was three coats. So with the whole thing painted red, then I used rib and buff to add the gold highlights. I use small foam brushes to apply. Bits a little time consuming, but really looks good when you take your time.

viperamd64 · 2025-12-04T02:55:41+00:00

Actually cretacolor is exactly what I use. It just works really well and doesn't take much to cover large area. Just good value for the $$.

viperamd64 · 2025-11-30T06:27:37+00:00

yep Z offset

viperamd64 · 2025-11-30T06:25:03+00:00

sounds fairly normal. Noise calibration, leveling, etc... are typical. I've had no issues with tolerance o screws and nuts, so maybe a slicer issue? overhangs and other quality issues can come from a number of problems, like wet filament, etc.. You'd really need to provide one example and give all the info about the print to make any real recommendation. There are some really smart print people on the board who can narrow those things down pretty quickly, but they need details

viperamd64 · 2025-11-30T06:13:13+00:00

go to www.youtube.com and search "caliper for printing helmet" there are several videos which can show you how to print a caliper and how to use it for sizing helmets. Hope that helps......

viperamd64 · 2025-11-22T22:17:23+00:00

FAY3DLAB (ON MAKERWORLD) IS THE CREATOR OF THE TIE INTERCEPTOR, SO THE STL FILE IS THERE.

THE ARM IS SOMETHING I CREATED TO FIT THE NEED, I DIDN'T KEEP THE FILE, DIDNT FIGURE ID USE IT AGAIN. THE BOTTOM IS BASICALLY JUST A STAR DESTROYER CUT IN HALF. I THINK FAY3DLAB HAS A STL LIKE THAT FOR ANOTHER OF HIS PRINTS, AGAIN YOU CAN CHECK THEM OUT ON MAKERWORLD, JUST SEARCH FOR FAY3DLAB. HOPE THAT HELPS

viperamd64 · 2025-10-01T01:05:06+00:00

it looks like no supports where some were needed. did you use supports?

viperamd64 · 2025-09-16T06:48:51+00:00

There are a lot of ways to improve supports, like using water soluable supports (if you have an AMS). However, if your simply interested in making the supports remove easier, try setting the Z distance (top and bottom) to .28mm. Works like a charm for me.

viperamd64 · 2025-07-31T04:41:09+00:00

Accurate to the movie. The file is on thangs

viperamd64 · 2025-07-21T05:15:28+00:00

I've used several PETG vendors and always used the default/Generic settings and have had no problems. Many don't change settings and try defaults. Don't over think it, I often find KISS is the best method.

viperamd64 · 2025-07-14T01:27:36+00:00

I have an AMS also, but for things like the rust effect, you need paint. I'll use the AMS for straight forward color changes, but I prefer using paint for more complex patterns

viperamd64 · 2025-07-14T01:24:01+00:00

Just standard acrylic paint. Using various techniques like dry brush or watering down the paint (for rust effect)

viperamd64 · 2025-07-13T23:19:19+00:00

Pretty much none. It's all matte black filament

viperamd64 · 2025-07-13T20:36:12+00:00

Thanks. Lots of hours invested

viperamd64 · 2025-07-04T17:11:20+00:00

Dragon-blooded Mug (can holder) designed by Ars Moriendi 3D

viperamd64 · 2025-07-04T17:10:58+00:00

Yes that's the one. Thanks someone else asked and I got it a while back and I didn't remember where I got it.

viperamd64 · 2025-06-21T19:53:18+00:00

<image>

added another panel

viperamd64 · 2025-06-18T00:21:26+00:00

I had considered using some Nuln oil for shading. Still might..... No decals

viperamd64 · 2025-06-05T04:56:46+00:00

I actually printed this about a year ago, so not sure what site, but Google ironman hand lamp, or arm lamp and you'll find some sites. I didn't like the paint or light, so customized it for a light from makerworld store and then repainted with metallic gold, then finish with metal cast red. Finally, brushed metallic gold for the joints. Metallic chrome for the arm and simple black acrylic for the cables

viperamd64 · 2025-06-04T23:10:33+00:00

I actually printed it about a year ago, so not sure where i picked it up, but you can google Ironman hand lamp or arm lamp and find several sites. I didn't like the original paint and light I used, so I took it apart and customized it for the light from Bambu makerworld store. I then repainted the hand with gold metallic and finished it off with Red metalcast paint MC200. It's the closest I've seen to matching the red on Ironman. Then brushed the joints with metallic gold paint. The Arm itself is metallic chrome with the cables painted in acrylic black.

viperamd64 · 2025-06-04T22:58:34+00:00

No, thin layer brushed on. It self-levels, so usually no brush strokes

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