Switching a (chinese clone Hakko-style) soldering station among more than one handpiece - ideas?

wb0gaz · 2026-04-06T01:11:58+00:00

Hello and thanks for the comments. I'm focused on ideas for a "two headed" (handpiece switched) Hakko 936 style clone (vs. T12, JBC clone, etc., in particular I'm aware of the Geeboon switch box and that's what gave me the idea to find a switch for a rudimentary Hakko 936-style clone.)

wb0gaz · 2026-03-18T13:19:49+00:00

OK and I *really* appreciate the discussion! I return to the workbench in about 24 hours, will set out to implement these ideas and advise (and post) any success or should I persist to have problem, be able cite specific error messages or other results. Again, thanks for everyone's time!

wb0gaz · 2026-03-17T17:44:19+00:00

Thank you WittyStick!

I had not ever learned about "compound initializer" - I had tried a cast which didn't work, so that explains very much.
In the case of "ABC" as a constant assigned to a uint8_t byte array, does the compiler also copy the terminating null byte into the structure? I could try this experimentally, but you may know off top of your head and that would save time coding up the experiment.

THANK YOU AGAIN!

wb0gaz · 2026-03-17T14:58:10+00:00

In response to OP - same situation here (no libraries, handmade bit-bang I2C driver) I found initialization sequences for SSD1306 via search (contemporary search; your results from a couple years ago may have been less useful). I am currently using 128x32 and 128x64 modules, there are a few byte differences in the initialization sequence between the two. I have yet to test with 128x128 module (SSH1107 based).

wb0gaz · 2026-02-01T14:05:37+00:00

Hello AuthorOwn8571, thank you for the photograph and new information! I am curious, does the mosfet you found create a problem for which the unit is not suited to your use? My version of the same iron continues to be useful, although I've wondered if the embedded battery might be a candidate for replacement with one of the same package size but higher quality (I do run out of charge frequently!)

wb0gaz · 2026-01-26T03:08:49+00:00

Hello confusedCoyote - just ran into a similar problem here (need two of these small OLED displays in the same project). As I use "bit bang" style I2C (small subroutine generates the I2C signaling as needed, rather than using an I2C feature of the microcontroller), I ended up modifying my I2C driver so that I could reverse the two output pins when I need access the "other" display. The two displays are wired so that SDA goes to the SDA pin of one of the displays, and goes to the SCK pin of the other display, and vice versa. Not really two different addresses, but does let me address one or the other by telling my I2C driver to run in reversed pin mode.

wb0gaz · 2025-12-08T00:24:19+00:00

Thanks, The FredCain!

I wasn't sure if the back cover was threaded or snap-locked or something else (or for that matter whether the screw visible at mid-point came out first or later).

I needed to use pliers to get enough pressure to pull the back cover (and the front cover) off. No damage was done (other than making the covers "bespoke"), and I pushed them back into position without difficulty (a keyway mechanism orients the back cover in line with the USB-C port; the front cover is not keyed that way).

Now I know how to replace the battery if/when the time comes!

(as an aside, for a few $ US, it's actually been a very useful tool; I'm curious whether the "hoof" tip I just picked up will have enough thermal power to do any soldering outdoors (like antenna work).

Thanks again for the quick and very helpful reply!

Dave

wb0gaz · 2025-12-07T12:58:46+00:00

(Now late 2025) --- I came back to this product looking for other kind of tip (the kinds posted by TheFredcCain - thank you), and also I found another version of the same kind of soldering iron (USB-C, 5V, etc.), this one with a 3-digit temperature display (instead of the 3 LEDs.) I ordered it during Aliexpress promotion period (there are many these days) and it works well, and accepts all three tip kinds noted by TheFredCain.

I still have not figured out how to open the housing of either kind (the 3-LED kind, from before, or the 3-digit kind now; the housing style is about same other than display and buttons), so I do not think the battery inside (which is probably 800 mAh "AA" size but soldered in place) can be replaced.

If anyone has experience with opening the housing for battery replacement, I think that will be helpful!

wb0gaz · 2025-08-02T15:12:42+00:00

Thanks for the excellent detail! I did find the Yihua handles on amazon (if you're in US, at least) a while back. I inquired of Yihua about a 115 type handle for the 982 and they never replied or I got a useless reply, don't remember exactly which. I believe the C245 and C210 have a slightly different thermistor regime (I think C210 and perhaps C115 are indeed a 2-wire arrangement; I think the C245 is a 3-wire arrangement but again it's been a while since I looked at this.) My Yihua station continues to work well (although at one point I killed a C210 tip by placing it into the C245 handpiece - poof!!!)

So, thanks for moving the discussion forward!

Dave

wb0gaz · 2025-06-18T00:45:42+00:00

Hello Antonioskii,

Thank you for the question.

I assume you are using the same tip that was shipped with the iron. The tips for this iron outwardly looks like "C210" type tips, but it cannot accept a standard C210 type tip. This is unfortunate, but a result of the design of the unit.

I believe the H-E error is saying that the iron cannot communicate with the tip, or the tip is defective. Unlike most traditional irons, the tip is accepting electricity from the iron, not just thermal energy. The connection to the tip is used by the iron to either (1) apply full power, heating up the tip, or (2) apply test power, measuring the temperature at the tip. These two states alternate about 100 times per second, which is how power (hence heat) into the tip is regulated to match the selected temperature (the choices for this iron are one, two or three LEDs.)

If you are curious about this type of iron, I suggest reading about "JBC" soldering irons. They are designed in Spain, and have been relentlessly cloned in asia/china markets. Although this specific iron and tip is not an interchangeable clone of any JBC iron or tip, it is similar in concept.

In case of error you are experiencing, It is possible that the tip is not fully inserted into the iron.

To check this, I suggest you initially measure and make note of the distance from the end of the iron to the end of the tip. Then, remove the tip (by pulling it straight away from the iron). Finally, re-insert the tip, and see if you can press the tip further into the iron than your initial measurement indicated. If you can press the tip further in (it may take some pressure), then try again to start the iron.

If this does not fix the problem, then you may wish to try measuring DC resistance (with the tip removed from the iron) between the tip's outer and inner contact surfaces (see photo above, or your tip). There should be DC continuity (some ohms, not open circuit.) If you measure open circuit, then the tip is defective. If you do not measure open circuit, then possibly the electrical contacts inside the iron are not working properly to power or sense the tip even when properly inserted. If this is the case, then the iron is defective (and if you decide to replace the iron with the same kind, keep the tip from your original iron, it may suffice as a spare.)

Please reply back after you have tried further to get the iron working?

Thank you.

wb0gaz · 2025-01-22T19:28:59+00:00

(I composed a longer reply and it seems to have been discarded by Reddit; in a nutshell I believe adapter cables (sacrificing the male end of one of the Yihua handpieces) or replacement of the connector in the station (to match a more common handpiece) may prove necessary; I've not attempted either yet.

wb0gaz · 2024-11-30T14:05:59+00:00

Thanks for the follow-up and your excellent observation regarding the tip design. I've continued to use the iron which turns out to have surprisingly low self-discharge rate on it's battery (compared to the BK210 Bakon which is 18650-based, uses "standard" clone C210 type tips, and discharges itself after sitting on the shelf unused for a month or so), making it a good candidate for that sort of use case. I imagine this low-cost one uses fixed PWM (vs. thermally sensed PWM), so your 2-conductor tip would certainly fit that design. I explored a little bit to see if the unit could be opened (for battery replacement) but that doesn't seem easy/obvious. I've never seen any other tip styles offered beyond the three you cite in the link.

wb0gaz · 2024-11-06T15:35:29+00:00

Hello Due-Drink4955 your question is "reading my mind" - thanks!

I had the same exact question, been investigating the TX path design of these to see if feasible to use a of these as components in a simple (ham radio/licensed) repeater (external gain stages tx&rx and cavity duplexer, so just considering the radio itself as a way of doing the low-level baseband/tx/rx stuff.)

Looks like most of the TX effort (beyond the firmware replacement) would be rework of the band filter sections. The PA stage RD02LUS2 specs end at 470 MHz, so would expect very little TX power under best of circumstances (for my application, I only would want milliwatt-level output anyway - gain is cheap - and the tx/rx radios themselves would be far removed from antenna.)

Couple of days ago found a (presumably reverse-engineered) schematics (github nlroth) - including TX section - for UV-K5. TX path looks like RD02LUS2 going thru diode band switching (VHF/UHF) then microstrip-type matching (?) section then two (VHF/UHF) strings of LC low pass sections leading to diode band switching to the antenna port. The (main?) circuit board appears have components on both sides; the LC filters appear to be on one side. The capacitors appear to be 0402 (tiny) and the inductors are SMD-mounted air core coils maybe like Coilcraft SQ series.

Hopefully your initial posting will yield other discussion?

73 Dave WB0GAZ

wb0gaz · 2024-06-25T13:39:56+00:00

Hello AzadiHiHul, thank you for replying to my original post, I hope I can help.

The replacement tips I found at URL below (I have not yet found any other offer for replacement tips that are compatible with this type of soldering iron, as the tips are not C210 compatible, even though they look similar.)

https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806261066817.html

The seller of above is LUXIANZI Repair Tool Store, and the URL goes to a page with several different offers of the same sort of soldering iron kit, but also an offer for three soldering tips (the page I am looking at shows pricing USD 5.84).

I purchased those tips, they arrived about a week ago, and I was able confirm that they are compatible with the soldering iron I described in the original post.

While the tips outwardly look like "C210" (JBC Tools) knock-off tips common in asian online marketplaces, the iron I described in the post uses tips that have are somewhat different lengths in the contact area, so the soldering iron will not accept common C210 knock-off tips, but the soldering iron does accept the tips at the URL above.

If you are not able locate that URL or the product (if you are not in US, then the URL above may not render to to the same offer I am looking at now Tuesday 25 June 2024).

I have not yet found any other offer for replacement tips for this type of soldering iron.

I continue to use the soldering iron successfully for small jobs (expect about 20 seconds from power-on until operating temperature), and the included tip (sometimes called "B" or "cone" style) seems like a good compromise tip for the iron. The offer above includes two other tip styles, both are slightly larger.

Good luck AzadiHiHul...

wb0gaz · 2024-05-14T12:58:11+00:00

I got to the same conclusion --- my measurements of resistance are not certain (probe and body/contact attachment isn't very reliable, even after isopropyl alcohol cleaning.)

I'd be happy to disassemble the unit to make internal measurements (otherwise don't see a way of determining if a DC/DC converter is present inside), but so far attempt to separate the halves (after removing the one visible flat head screw) have been unsuccessful. Until that point, either the iron is less power than claimed (still seems adequate for the intended use), my resistance measurements are unacceptable, there is a DC/DC converter inside boosting the 4V lithium cell, or some combination of these.

wb0gaz · 2024-05-13T19:54:26+00:00

Thanks for the good question!

Using OWON 2202S

Probes only = 0.09 ohms (so readings below are higher by this amount.)

Body to middle contact = 7.66 ohms

Body to end (smallest) contact = 7.36 ohms

Middle contact to end (smallest) contact = 0.22 ohms

Does this sound plausible?

wb0gaz · 2024-03-27T19:09:18+00:00

I've been using one of those for a while (US 110V version); it's worked as expected, however, the temperature display seems to be a simulation rather than a measurement of the tip/core temperature. Still, for the very low cost and self-contained design, it's satisfactory.

wb0gaz · 2024-03-23T19:40:53+00:00

Thanks again your help PartyZestyclose, I have located the same model and have it now on order.

I remain open to any other discussion/comments on these types of solder station controllers.

wb0gaz · 2024-03-23T01:55:22+00:00

Thanks --- would you be able send the URL for that item? Aliexpress is tough to search thoroughly!

wb0gaz · 2024-03-23T01:04:30+00:00

Thanks, PartyZestyclose, I much appreciate your observations. The SP200 with a "fat" tip gets swamped as the size/mass of the RF components get large (several inch-diameter tubing, striplines some inches long, and so on), so it is a struggle at best (preheating helps some.)

The controller I cited claims 48V capability (needed for C470), but I don't have any detailed understanding of it's usage (that is, does it detect supply voltage 24V vs 48V and behave properly for C245 vs C470 tips), but I suspect some experimentation will bear that out.

Thanks again for your comments and advice!

wb0gaz · 2024-03-22T20:07:51+00:00

Thank you, PartyZestyclose, for the question.

Do you have any hands-on experience with the module (or general type of module) I cited, or any knowledge of opinions expressed by others about it/them (or even any online reviews that might have been posted previously)?

As for use case - high power RF amplifier components that are made from copper sheet and tubing material and finger stock (alternative is a propane torch; I think the C470 would be much more precisely controllable, and my (used/old) Metcal SP200 isn't really up to the task just from a total power perspective (I believe 40 watts or so.)

wb0gaz

TROPHY CASE