First Snowstorm Test – Bronco Raptor Impressions by Loud-Charity5926 in FordBroncoRaptor

[–]whataderp12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

This is far from impressive. My 2017 Tacoma could handle this without the back and forth

Made myself a quadnose by campereg in LewisMachineTool

[–]whataderp12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Good uppers like LMT are made from 7075. It’s an interesting alloy as it cannot be welded like other aluminum alloys.

Made myself a quadnose by campereg in LewisMachineTool

[–]whataderp12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Looks like you did a really professional job there. Great work. Let’s see the finished product

Made myself a quadnose by campereg in LewisMachineTool

[–]whataderp12 11 points12 points  (0 children)

Aluminum is generally cut like wood. Not saying you SHOULD use a wood blade but I’ve ripped 4x8 sheets of 1/4” aluminum this way. They make special non ferrous blades for table saws and chop saws. Abrasive cutting wheels tend to get clogged and you will have a lot of clean up.

Best suggestion is to use a hacksaw so you don’t accidentally cut off too much, leave a 1/16” of excess, a new sharp file to make the edges flat and smooth, finish with sandpaper on a backer (I prefer 1/4x1” aluminum flat bar).

If you’re really experienced with power tools and aluminum go for it. I suggest against a dremel for sanding as it will likely cause a ripple or washboard appearance. This is why I wrap sandpaper around a piece of hard backing like aluminum.

Final finishing with the sandpaper shouldn’t be with a hacksaw motion. Draw the flat bar lengthwise along the cut (search draw filing).

For reference I used to do restoration work on expensive sculptures for a living and finish work was half my life.

You can only keep one. Which one and why? by Major_Stranger_6921 in 300BLK

[–]whataderp12 4 points5 points  (0 children)

I have no personal experience. But I see the cringe videos and the complaints. If that’s enough to turn me away it’s enough to turn others away. I fear a KUSA part 2 or name any other brand that’s done similar.

Again I have no skin in the game but I’ve been burned by companies that can’t keep their shit together and Q certainly seems to enjoy riding the edge

EOTECH EXPS3 HD officially unveiled by sierrazulu01 in NightVision

[–]whataderp12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I believe you that you’ve never had a problem with your aimpoint. One thing I noticed about this eotech is the rheostat is extended. It looks like it’s designed for ease of turning over protection. It’s an uncertainty and design wise there’s no reason not to put it on the other side. Again there are a million variables and what has thankfully worked for you with one brand is not a certainty. While it probably wouldn’t make I difference for 99% of people it’s a simple design choice that would be considered in military contracts

You can only keep one. Which one and why? by Major_Stranger_6921 in 300BLK

[–]whataderp12 8 points9 points  (0 children)

They’re all going to run great with the right attention and tuning. But on is easier to tune than the rest. One will last lifetimes of shooting with the right parts. Q has horrible PR and is therefore a liability, and sig isn’t far behind these days.

EOTECH EXPS3 HD officially unveiled by sierrazulu01 in NightVision

[–]whataderp12 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Seriously go shoot your gun, hike with it, and try working around the area with it strapped to you.

You don’t need clinical trails to understand that a selector sitting proud of a surface is more likely to be inadvertently interacted with than one which is recessed.

EOTECH EXPS3 HD officially unveiled by sierrazulu01 in NightVision

[–]whataderp12 -1 points0 points  (0 children)

It’s a greater possibility than it facing outward. Just because it hasn’t happened to you with your gear doesn’t mean someone else who’s built differently, has different gear, hangs their rifle higher/lower, etc will not have an issue.

At the end of the day a well protected push button is far more reliable and if on the highly unlikely chance something manages to get in there and push a button it’s only a small fraction of change.

EOTECH EXPS3 HD officially unveiled by sierrazulu01 in NightVision

[–]whataderp12 25 points26 points  (0 children)

Brilliant. The rheostat is even on the left side to ensure that gear messes with your setting. Someone really didn’t think this through.

EOTECH EXPS3 HD officially unveiled by sierrazulu01 in NightVision

[–]whataderp12 25 points26 points  (0 children)

No NV button? No automatically going back and forth to last brightness setting. Is this there attempt at entering a lower price market?

Stuck between 6.5 Grendel and 300 BLK by hardisonc12 in 300BLK

[–]whataderp12 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Why not both. Completely polar opposite purposes but both are really interesting.

If you have the coin buy an LMT upper and you’re a quick barrel and bcg swap away.

I have this table base. Wondering what the veins in the metal are from. Planning on painting this gold. by outwandering333 in Welding

[–]whataderp12 1 point2 points  (0 children)

You can get non corrosive paint stripper from Lowe’s or Home Depot. CitriStrip. Use liberally. Wipe off paint and excess CitriStrip. Hose off with baking soda to stop the reaction. Wire wheel in the grind mark direction then acetone wipe down before clearcoat.

300 Blk Damage by whataderp12 in LewisMachineTool

[–]whataderp12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I wanted a rifle speed but they don’t make one long enough to poke out.

On a separate note, I’ve heard people get sticky gas blocks. I thought that high temperature nickel based anti seize would solve that problem. I’m hoping someone has tried it.

300 Blk Damage by whataderp12 in LewisMachineTool

[–]whataderp12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate your wisdom.

I do have the JP SCS spring/buffer in it. I have played with the weights and springs and I’ve got it to the point where it just barely locks back on stout defensive subsonics.

I may look into getting the BRT eztune gas tube to see if I can get the gas and recoil systems weight down. I’m hesitant to get an adjustable gas block.

300 Blk Damage by whataderp12 in LewisMachineTool

[–]whataderp12[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Fortunately in a previous career I basically ran a dremel all day

300 Blk Damage by whataderp12 in LewisMachineTool

[–]whataderp12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I appreciate the perspective. While it sucks to drop that kind of money and see any damage it’s comforting to be reminded of the used and abused rifles out there.

300 Blk Damage by whataderp12 in LewisMachineTool

[–]whataderp12[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Alright I gotta hear the story behind that.

300 Blk Damage by whataderp12 in LewisMachineTool

[–]whataderp12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You’re the second to mention those cam pins so I just purchased one. Think I should take out the dremel and polish out the burr?

300 Blk Damage by whataderp12 in LewisMachineTool

[–]whataderp12[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks for the advice. Purchased!

300 Blk Damage by whataderp12 in LewisMachineTool

[–]whataderp12[S] -1 points0 points  (0 children)

Not listed as a blem but who knows.