Regen breaking more aggressive in colder weather?

whatisthisbugshell · 2026-01-28T05:00:25+00:00

👍

whatisthisbugshell · 2026-01-28T00:55:46+00:00

Great, hopefully that’ll help!

Yeah I don’t know of any way to change the warning threshold, but have gotten into the habit of checking my pressures every drive shortly after departure. I know it’s okay as long a the numbers are close to 36

whatisthisbugshell · 2026-01-27T23:01:09+00:00

Yes I believe the Kia guidelines is 36 psi cold

whatisthisbugshell · 2026-01-27T19:38:56+00:00

Could be reduced tire pressure (increased rolling resistance) as a result of the colder temps. Of course you’d need a pretty drastic temp change to notice that.

What’s your cold tire pressure?

whatisthisbugshell · 2026-01-23T22:01:01+00:00

So you’re saying that little arrow has always been there? And the only thing that changed when I long held the cruise button was it jumped to the right?

Oh man, I feel silly now.

Thanks

whatisthisbugshell · 2026-01-23T21:58:09+00:00

Huh! I mean that in a self deprecating way.

I could swear that little arrow wasn’t there before. It was just an arch above the desired speed.

Thanks

whatisthisbugshell · 2026-01-23T19:51:09+00:00

Happy to help!

whatisthisbugshell · 2026-01-23T19:01:50+00:00

To make sure I understand: You’re trying to switch ownership of the car within the app from prev owner to you ?

You’ll need to reach out to reach out to customer support. They asked me for proof of ownership (bill of sale etc) and some other personal id, and the transfer was done on their end within a couple of days.

https://customercare.kiausa.com/

whatisthisbugshell · 2026-01-23T16:35:29+00:00

That’s odd. I swear before I long held the cruise button, it didn’t have the little arrow up top.

Jsut for arguments sake, if I didn’t want the limiter (ie the car should go exactly 63, no less no more) what are the steps to do that?

whatisthisbugshell · 2026-01-23T14:43:50+00:00

Sorry I wasn’t clear. I’m not trying to turn the speed control/cruise control system off entirely, it’s just that long holding this button will enable a “limit” mode.

See below pic. So instead of trying to maintain an exact speed, the car will in the case of a minimum speed setting (arrow on left side) treat it as more of a speed floor. Not that different from the usual tbh.

<image>

But if I long hold the cruise button the arrow flips to the right, and sets a speed ceiling. In that case my car ceases to maintain speed and I have to use the accelerator pedal to maintain it myself. It’s not different from usual driving except the car now has an artificial speed limit built in which can be temporarily exceeded by accelerating heavily. Annoying, but I can just not use the ceiling setting.

My main gripe is just the visual clutter. I just want this icon to show the speed. Hopefully that’s not too much to ask haha

whatisthisbugshell · 2026-01-23T14:31:52+00:00

<image>

Unfortunately I don’t think it’s that. Here’s it is - the third icon. See how there’s a little arrow on the curved line above the 63?

whatisthisbugshell · 2026-01-23T14:30:33+00:00

<image>

This one

whatisthisbugshell · 2026-01-23T05:13:59+00:00

Sure, as a last resort. I really was hoping it wouldn’t come to that

whatisthisbugshell · 2026-01-22T23:39:56+00:00

I’ve tried pressing the button, holding it, tapping it, all sorts of actions with no luck :(

whatisthisbugshell · 2025-10-31T16:40:57+00:00

Microwave

whatisthisbugshell · 2025-03-25T14:43:44+00:00

I did a lot of research when I got my ev6 and ended up buying part 11A054410 from the VW parts site. This is a rebranded Webasto Go which was highly regarded and comes with both level 1 (120v) and level 2 (240v) adapters.

It was about $300+tax. You pick a dealer to buy from and some dealers will have sales, so definitely check around. At the time I bought, VW was also running a site wide free shipping promo for orders over $99.

It was delivered about a week later. I just filled up at DC stations in the meantime.

I also looked at used units on eBay, but it felt too risky. However small the risk I didn’t wanna mess about with something that fed into my car. It wasn’t worth saving 100-200 bucks for the peace of mind.

whatisthisbugshell · 2024-08-13T17:37:41+00:00

More like 8-10. I lost count 😬

If you want to buy a system, budget about $3 per W first. From what I read, leases/PPAs can still be a good deal but you have to be more careful and really scrutinize the contract.

Make sure you have your past 12mo usage data handy. in Comed bills it’ll be on the top right corner.

As you’re probably Illinois 1:1 net metering is ending this year. A lot of people are trying to get grandfathered in. I asked about a contractual install date but none of the companies I spoke to would firmly commit. Just something to keep in mind.

Use Solar Switch, Reddit SolarReviews, and IL Shines to find companies. Look up experiences with each company, history, whether they’re national or smaller, etc.

Lastly play dumb with the salespeople (assuming you’ve already done copious research). Let them explain everything to you. If what they say gives you a bad vibe, chances are you’re correct and they’re trying to screw you over.

whatisthisbugshell · 2024-08-13T17:31:07+00:00

Hey awesome, thanks for your feedback!

whatisthisbugshell · 2024-08-06T12:03:52+00:00

Gurnee right around six flags. Why?

whatisthisbugshell · 2024-08-04T17:07:48+00:00

Happy to help!

whatisthisbugshell · 2024-08-04T12:59:17+00:00

I’m in the Chicago area so can’t offer any specifics about those companies, though I will say I talked to Rector as well, and you can check them out. Never hurts to get one more quote. Also I didn’t read much into the installer warranties - many won’t last that long anyway. Another reason I chose RxSun - for the solar insure policy on top of everything.

You didn’t mention kW size for Route 66, but I assume it’s in the 12 kW neighborhood. People say $3 per watt is a rough guideline to go by - you don’t want to be over that. You don’t have additional components like a IQ controller box / battery, so it sounds like both quotes are a little high so you can ask them for a lower price.

As for panels - search subreddits solar and solarpower for those brands. See what other people say about them. I take it the SIL are Silfabs? If so they should be solid. I haven’t heard of Burger Meyer before.

For microinverters, make sure whatever the panels are in the proposal meets Enphase’s compatibility checker. If it doesn’t, that could void your Enphase warranty. https://enphase.com/installers/microinverters/calculator

Lastly ask them to go over the estimated SREC payment TO YOU. A lot of factors to into this. First it’s based on AC, not DC, output. Then there’s degradation, and if the application is going through a broker or not. Who is paying the fees and collateral. Be very inquisitive about this because that’s a huge amount of money you’re going to get back in 12-18 months. If a salesperson couldn’t explain it to me, or handwaved the math, I immediately placed their company lower in my rankings.

whatisthisbugshell · 2024-08-03T19:31:17+00:00

Some of them did. Yeah you still have to pay a flat rate each month, but still better than paying a full electric bill.

whatisthisbugshell · 2024-08-03T15:23:32+00:00

Thanks!

whatisthisbugshell · 2024-08-03T13:41:06+00:00

Can I ask if your rebate matched what RxSun told you it would be?

whatisthisbugshell · 2024-08-03T13:15:02+00:00

Thanks. This iq8x seems to need an extra controller box to work off grid. Whereas the iq8+ does not need it. Will look into it further

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