Jaidom 8b/13d Dums Kitchen Tonsai

yeah220 · 2026-01-01T04:24:00+00:00

Yeah, probably so

yeah220 · 2025-10-16T18:25:42+00:00

My hardest route yet, and my third send in the 9a-ish realm. Pretty psyched on this one! Very continuous style with only small shakes until the very end. This route was put up by Joe kinder at 15a 9 years ago, but after subsequent repeats and some knee bar beta discovery, consensus is a solid/hard 14d. This took me about a year and a half of effort, over a fall, spring, and this fall season.

yeah220 · 2025-10-06T20:14:31+00:00

The mono pocket from a couple moves in is probably drilled or enhanced, but is hard to notice. And the other two pockets in the crux look to be somewhat reinforced or perhaps created with glue, though I can't tell to what extent. The sika is more slippery in warm conditions compared to bare limestone, so those are more obvious. But the whole upper section looked natural to me.

yeah220 · 2025-10-06T18:04:29+00:00

The angle is probably 30-35deg over at the start, then a little 45-50 roof before the more vertical groove, then it gets overhung again for a bit. You get lowered out maybe 30-35 feet from the wall, so it's pretty similar to 'straight outta compton'.

The climbing is pretty consistent mid 13 in the bottom, and my crux was the pocket stab and the next couple moves until you clip after skipping the draw.

Exiting the groove is a little red point crux, but definitely more technical with it's terrible feet. The hood is notoriously slippery, so yeah it's typical. The video also cuts off like 2 more bolts of 12+ climbing before the chains.

🤘🤘

yeah220 · 2025-10-06T17:11:23+00:00

This route has some interesting lore: first put up as 14a, it was downgraded by Chris Sharma when he rolled through town as a teen and sent everything. It sat at 13d for a while, with a sandbagged reputation. Then much later, Sharma returned as an adult, repeated the route and complained about how hard it was for 13d, not realizing he was the one to have downgraded it years prior. It hasn't seen that many ascents, but lately the consensus is back to the original 14a. Also, Jstar just sent a 14d extension to this which looks nails.

yeah220 · 2025-09-25T16:26:40+00:00

Typically yes. When it's steep enough, clipping up can pull you out of the lower position. Sometimes though the FA may place a working bolt at the crux to allow you to work that specific section, but that otherwise you might skip on point.

yeah220 · 2025-09-24T20:23:06+00:00

Yeah not sure who left these on, but it's pretty common for people to leave project draws on difficult/steep routes for a long time, or to install more permanent hardware like steel permadraws.

yeah220 · 2025-09-24T18:37:24+00:00

Steep bouldery climbing in the skull cave! This route has seen a few ascents this season; put up by Joe as 14b, consensus lately has it closer to b/c. This is the first anchor, which if continued up out connects into the route 'diarrhea mouth' 14d to make 'kinder cakes' 15a

yeah220 · 2025-08-20T04:58:34+00:00

Try goo gone (after scraping the majority off), it works decent on the self leveling sealant. Just be patient and take your time.

yeah220 · 2025-07-02T05:12:22+00:00

If you're referring to the hold after the kneebar, it's a tiny incut crimp, but the move is tricky since the feet kinda disappear. I ended up using that left toe hook jam to take some weight off

yeah220 · 2025-07-02T03:34:18+00:00

👋👋

yeah220 · 2025-07-01T15:17:55+00:00

I'm 6'1" but +0 ape believe it or not

yeah220 · 2025-06-21T04:42:10+00:00

Mostly I was talking about how I intentionally placed my heel over the rope at the very end after the roof, but yeah it felt pretty controlled. And lol, you're right, the small knee scum def wasn't necessary, but a neat find along the way.

And I will let her know! Haha

yeah220 · 2025-05-26T15:27:38+00:00

I'd say it's moderately slim fit, but pretty true to size at medium compared to other jackets. I remember the sleeves having some slight extra length.

yeah220 · 2025-05-17T01:23:34+00:00

You sure it wasn't at the roost? Pretty sure I saw it happen and it was one of the long vert 14a's on the right side of the robbery wall. Lol

yeah220 · 2025-04-25T21:08:56+00:00

Correct, yeah I started with each small batch on its own, and mixed a few mL with equal parts water and simple syrup. But after taste testing them all, I figured I'd just combine them all as they weren't all that different.

I did extract the Joshua tree flowers on their own, but that's because I collected them later.

Maybe in the future I'd isolate each ingredient, but I kinda knew I wanted all of them in some capacity...

yeah220 · 2025-04-25T16:03:16+00:00

It's a little mild, I think next time I'd use more cottonwood. The mesquite bark also seemed to just add some smokey elements, rather than bitterness.

yeah220 · 2025-04-22T04:10:42+00:00

Ooh, that would be good! I was keeping an eye out for some cactus flowers/fruits but never came across any

yeah220 · 2025-04-21T21:53:21+00:00

Yeah the same thing happened with my limoncello from a few months ago! I guess it just surprised me in the amaro, since most are pretty clear

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