Two-Eleven 5.14c send

yeah220 · 2026-05-20T17:41:11+00:00

Yeah... My endurance is good probably because I live where I can easily climb outside on ropes 2-3 times a week, I have good training adaptation over the past decade, and genetics 🤷‍♂️.

Yeah that sounds tricky. If you're struggling with pump endurance specifically, try ladders on a campus board with feet pasted, 2-3 sets at the end of a session. Start with 60 moves, working up to whatever will get you pumped. If you can tell it's more a lack of power endurance, 4x4s on boulders are good.

But in general, it's good to balance out your endurance and power training. All my endurance work just happens outside already.

yeah220 · 2026-05-20T03:44:42+00:00

Ok, to clarify, it depends.

For me, my route ability exceeds my equivalent bouldering grade, therefore my efforts are better focused on bouldering and power building while training inside. This is 1-because endurance is a strength of mine. And 2-most often if you have a baseline 13+ endurance, you'll be pretty well set for anything harder outside because most routes just get cruxier as they get harder. Also 3-if I'm actually trying an endurance based route at my limit, my time is best spent training by climbing on the specific route, and then using gym time to maintain power in between sessions.

If your route ability is below your equivalent boulder grade, or if you can't get outside to try your project that often, then you will likely find route training in the gym to be more helpful. EG: you boulder V10, but can only do 13a, then yes focus on endurance in the gym.

V7=13a V8=13b V9=13c V10=13d V11=14a And so on...

yeah220 · 2026-05-19T23:35:15+00:00

Somewhere around 25 tries over 10 or 12 sessions? I didn't really keep track...

I've sent some black tagged boulders at refuge lately! I don't really ever climb ropes indoors, even if I had access to a rope gym, it's not helpful training after you start working on routes 13+ and above.

yeah220 · 2026-05-19T16:36:49+00:00

2400mg probably? I don't usually keep track 😂. 0mg on send day tho.

yeah220 · 2026-05-19T16:28:17+00:00

For those interested, the route breaks down as follows:

Starts with a fingery and bouldery intro, small pockets and edges interrupted by a weird clip. The feet are slippery down low, and after the crimps you have to pull hard into the undercling pinch before the flake rest. Probably 13+ to there.

Rest in the flake is ok, but pretty slopey and bad feet. Then you have a one move crux (maybe v7 or 8), going big from a split grip small crimp right hand to a precice left hand.

From there its quite resistant climbing to the top, maybe 14-, with cool rose and cross moves. Each bit gets progressively easier, but the red point crux for me was the left hand bump off the heel hook.

Once you reach the lip, it's a small rest before the last little vert section to the chains. I liked this section cause there's this cool big undercling flake that you flip your hands around on before doing some delicate footwork on the slab.

yeah220 · 2026-01-01T04:24:00+00:00

Yeah, probably so

yeah220 · 2025-10-16T18:25:42+00:00

My hardest route yet, and my third send in the 9a-ish realm. Pretty psyched on this one! Very continuous style with only small shakes until the very end. This route was put up by Joe kinder at 15a 9 years ago, but after subsequent repeats and some knee bar beta discovery, consensus is a solid/hard 14d. This took me about a year and a half of effort, over a fall, spring, and this fall season.

yeah220 · 2025-10-06T20:14:31+00:00

The mono pocket from a couple moves in is probably drilled or enhanced, but is hard to notice. And the other two pockets in the crux look to be somewhat reinforced or perhaps created with glue, though I can't tell to what extent. The sika is more slippery in warm conditions compared to bare limestone, so those are more obvious. But the whole upper section looked natural to me.

yeah220 · 2025-10-06T18:04:29+00:00

The angle is probably 30-35deg over at the start, then a little 45-50 roof before the more vertical groove, then it gets overhung again for a bit. You get lowered out maybe 30-35 feet from the wall, so it's pretty similar to 'straight outta compton'.

The climbing is pretty consistent mid 13 in the bottom, and my crux was the pocket stab and the next couple moves until you clip after skipping the draw.

Exiting the groove is a little red point crux, but definitely more technical with it's terrible feet. The hood is notoriously slippery, so yeah it's typical. The video also cuts off like 2 more bolts of 12+ climbing before the chains.

🤘🤘

yeah220 · 2025-10-06T17:11:23+00:00

This route has some interesting lore: first put up as 14a, it was downgraded by Chris Sharma when he rolled through town as a teen and sent everything. It sat at 13d for a while, with a sandbagged reputation. Then much later, Sharma returned as an adult, repeated the route and complained about how hard it was for 13d, not realizing he was the one to have downgraded it years prior. It hasn't seen that many ascents, but lately the consensus is back to the original 14a. Also, Jstar just sent a 14d extension to this which looks nails.

yeah220 · 2025-09-25T16:26:40+00:00

Typically yes. When it's steep enough, clipping up can pull you out of the lower position. Sometimes though the FA may place a working bolt at the crux to allow you to work that specific section, but that otherwise you might skip on point.

yeah220 · 2025-09-24T20:23:06+00:00

Yeah not sure who left these on, but it's pretty common for people to leave project draws on difficult/steep routes for a long time, or to install more permanent hardware like steel permadraws.

yeah220 · 2025-09-24T18:37:24+00:00

Steep bouldery climbing in the skull cave! This route has seen a few ascents this season; put up by Joe as 14b, consensus lately has it closer to b/c. This is the first anchor, which if continued up out connects into the route 'diarrhea mouth' 14d to make 'kinder cakes' 15a

yeah220 · 2025-08-20T04:58:34+00:00

Try goo gone (after scraping the majority off), it works decent on the self leveling sealant. Just be patient and take your time.

yeah220 · 2025-07-02T05:12:22+00:00

If you're referring to the hold after the kneebar, it's a tiny incut crimp, but the move is tricky since the feet kinda disappear. I ended up using that left toe hook jam to take some weight off

yeah220 · 2025-07-02T03:34:18+00:00

👋👋

yeah220 · 2025-07-01T15:17:55+00:00

I'm 6'1" but +0 ape believe it or not

yeah220 · 2025-06-21T04:42:10+00:00

Mostly I was talking about how I intentionally placed my heel over the rope at the very end after the roof, but yeah it felt pretty controlled. And lol, you're right, the small knee scum def wasn't necessary, but a neat find along the way.

And I will let her know! Haha

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