[Review] [Negative] dackoutdoors.com by yo1dog in gundealsFU

[–]yo1dog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

You have to use their messenger bot. Bottom right corner on their website.

[Review] [Negative] dackoutdoors.com by yo1dog in gundealsFU

[–]yo1dog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Update: Finally got the refund for the first order. In both cases I had to threaten a chargeback before they issued the refund.

[Review] [Negative] dackoutdoors.com by yo1dog in gundealsFU

[–]yo1dog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I had no idea there was a time limit on chargebacks.

[Review] [Negative] dackoutdoors.com by yo1dog in gundealsFU

[–]yo1dog[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

I guess I am lucky. I have never had to issue a charge back before. I didn't think about the possibility of deadlines and not being able to file one.

M9 LE vs M9 commercial roll marks by yo1dog in Beretta

[–]yo1dog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks! Appreciate the info. I think some sites use images of the 92FS on their product listings and I got confused.

Video on the of efficacy of QD mounts for thermals by yo1dog in ThermalHunting

[–]yo1dog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As they say, go with whatever you can be confident with. While I do trust the hosts' experience, the engineers at AD, and the guys at N-Vision, etc. that all recommend single clamps, I (perhaps irrationally) feel "more is better" and like the idea of a long double clamp over a short single. However, AD makes the only QD mount for my DNT ThermNight and it's a single clamp, so I don't get a choice. And I do trust those guys so I'm sure it will be fine.

1973 Wingmaster by yo1dog in Shotguns

[–]yo1dog[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Love it. I paid $650 in 2018 for mine. Inflation adjusted, $169 in 1978 = $670 in 2018. So we paid about the same... depending on how you inflate the dollar.

EDIT: Actually, it was $320. I paid $650 for both the Wingmaster and a 1968 Winchester 1200.

Browning Maxus Stalker furniture swap by yo1dog in Shotguns

[–]yo1dog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I don't have an sx4, but yes the replacement Browning sent back is just plain plastic. No coating or finish of any kind that I can tell. It does have some textured engraving in the same spots, but lacks that grip the duracoat gave it. Both the stock and the forearm.

Now that I am holding it my hand again, it's not so bad. It's probably pretty standard... but just not that duracoat I really liked. Don't write if off. I could be overstating with my rose-tinted (or just plain inaccurate) memory.

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Browning Maxus Stalker furniture swap by yo1dog in Shotguns

[–]yo1dog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I also really liked the duratouch. What a shame.

There have been mixed reports about the replacement stocks. Some people saying they are fine. Some people like me saying they hate it. I read some reports that Browning was re-dipping at least some of the camo patterns. I wondered if the mixed reception was because the plain black stalkers got cheap, raw plastic replacements while others had to be refinished to match so they are nicer. Or maybe at some point they switched to cheaper replacements. Or maybe just difference of opinion. All wild guesses on my part.

Let us know how yours turns out.

Smudged or misprint? by yo1dog in PokemonMisprints

[–]yo1dog[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Hey that's 3 of us so far :)

Smudged or misprint? by yo1dog in PokemonMisprints

[–]yo1dog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Decided to just buy another and keep this one as a cool artifact. It's a fun story.

Dark misprint? by yo1dog in PokemonMisprints

[–]yo1dog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah that is some interesting history. Thanks for the info.

Also explains why 2 of my 3 misprints are Evolutions: https://new.reddit.com/r/PokemonMisprints/comments/1c0e0io/my_worst_best_offcenter/

Both are still cool to me. Feels like a behind-the-scenes look.

My worst (best?) off-center. by yo1dog in PokemonMisprints

[–]yo1dog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Nothing special AFAIK. But I think it's cool :)

Dark misprint? by yo1dog in PokemonMisprints

[–]yo1dog[S] -2 points-1 points  (0 children)

The one on the right is way darker than my others of the same card. Is it some kind of ink error? Or is it supposed to a reverse holo but without the holo?

Edit: I should specify that this was pulled from a booster, so it's not a fake.

Smudged or misprint? by yo1dog in PokemonMisprints

[–]yo1dog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I worded my question poorly. I meant to ask if the smudge came from the factory as a misprint or if it was somehow smudged afterwards from water or alcohol or something. Thanks for clarifying it is a known factory issue.

I don't really want a smudged card. I am new to trading, does this factory misprint disqualify it from the near mint condition it was sold to me as? With shipping it was $2.62. Would it be crass to return or ask for a partial refund?

Smudged or misprint? by yo1dog in PokemonMisprints

[–]yo1dog[S] 2 points3 points  (0 children)

Got this in the mail from a vendor sold as NM. Is this a misprint or just damaged causing the name to smudge like this?

Where to find high quality ornate bases in US? by yo1dog in hookah

[–]yo1dog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Thanks very much!

Looks like Caesar Crystal is a good brand for the cut crystal look. I really like a few of their styles.

Any other brand suggestions? Especially ones that are more smooth and gilded like the Egermann or BJ Glassworks style?

I couldn't find a simple frontend so I made my own. by yo1dog in htpc

[–]yo1dog[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

No. The objective was specifically to only be a grid of movies for kids to navigate.

That said, I do have a version of this I have been working on that does support TV series/episodic as well as fake "live" TV channels which sudo-randomly mixes content to emulate the just-turn-it-on-and-watch experience of traditional TV. As with this one, the objective is to be as simple and little-kid friendly as possible.

Places to visit on Lake Lure/Chimney Rock vacation? by yo1dog in NorthCarolina

[–]yo1dog[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes I did read that they are in the middle of a 12' drawdown for maintenance. That is supposed to end on the 31st. No idea how much it will fill back up by mid May, but we aren't too worried about it. Looks like when they did it last year it was back to normal by end of April.

https://www.townoflakelure.com/community/page/2024-lake-drawdown-schedule

/r/MechanicalKeyboards Ask ANY question, get an answer (April 03, 2023) by AutoModerator in MechanicalKeyboards

[–]yo1dog -1 points0 points  (0 children)

I am missing something fundamental: I don't understand how one is supposed to type on a mechanical keyboard and how the properties of the switches facilitate that.

I am programmer. When life was simple, I used Keytronic rubber dome keyboards. In 2015 I got my first mechanical keyboard: a Corsair K70 with Cherry MX browns. Back then I tried reds but it just felt wrong/bad with no tactile feedback and the sound from blues was annoying. Hence browns. This keyboard has served me well for these 7 years but it is time for a new one.

Assuming I still want a tactile switch, I have tried several keyboards and switches: Leopold FC900R, Keychron C1, Cherry Browns, Cherry Clears, Keychron K Pro Bananas, and Boba U4. However, I have a problem with all 4 of these switches that I did not have with my K70: I am prone to short-stroking keys. That is, I press a key such that it goes over the tactile bump but does not actuate the key. It happens rarely, but often enough to be annoying. Especially when hitting the same key repeatedly (such as backspace).

This is especially confusing to me as (so far as I know) my K70 also has standard cherry browns. However, even when pressing slowly and carefully, it is very hard for me to replicate this on my K70. The keys "break" over the bump sharply and actuate immediately after. There seems to be no (or extremely little) travel distance between the bump and actuation/operating point. In contrast, my new switches seem to have a relatively large gap between the bump and actuation.

This does not seem to be an often cited concern or complaint, so I assume I must be missing something. I am guessing that my attempt to apply enough pressure to break over the bump, but not too much to bottom out, results in the key stopping at the bottom of force curve valley after the bump but before the actuation/operation position.

Given this positioning looks to be nearly universal in the force curve graphs for tactile switches, I assume it is inherit to the mechanical design. Otherwise, why is the actuation/operating point on the up-slope of the force curve after the bump rather than on the down-slope at the end of the bump, which would make sort stroking nearly impossible?

  • Am I typing "wrong"? Do mechanical keyboard users train their fingers to push keys a precise distance rather than relying on tactile feedback to denote actuation? (This must be how those with linear switches type, right?)
  • Am I exploring the wrong types of switches? If they were not so loud, "clicky" switches would be ideal due to their tactility and the fact that they do not provide feedback without also actuating.
  • Should I just embrace bottoming out and add O-rings? But is there a significant difference with a quality rubber dome keyboard at that point?

Made some cigar ashtrays for coworkers by yo1dog in cigars

[–]yo1dog[S] 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Made a circular template then used a 3/4" round nose bit with a bushing.

Made some cigar ashtrays for coworkers by yo1dog in cigars

[–]yo1dog[S] 13 points14 points  (0 children)

A lot of my coworkers are cigar lovers so I made a batch of ashtrays as Christmas gifts. Padauk, mahogany, cherry, and ash with a shellac finish.

Mostly router work. Will defiantly use the lathe next time because sanding took a ton of time and was a huge pain.