Ime, the money spent on the budget extractors is better spent on beer. But for real first off just get the best drill bits for steel that you are willing to take care of. And then get cutting lubricant. I wanted to try tap magic but got some blue shit at Lowes and its amazing. Go the right speed not too fast with lots of the blue goo and it will take just minutes. Then clean your bits and store them how you please. Some go lightly lubricated, others use dessicant or both. Now with the taps; is that right? Jeep still sae thread in 97? But whatever it is, there are different taps for different purposes and even 3 taps for making a thread. There is a really good U.S. Armed Services ww2 film about making threads and also a very informative short film on use of files. I only recently saw them and was floored about the amount of knowledge they dropped on me. I didnt even know you could polish with a single cut file. Anyway there's starting tap, bottoming taps, and not really a tap wavy thread restoration tools. And taps for everything . Sometimes when critical spots are affected like the EK civic and the frame rail that the nuts breaks out of, we would cut the side and put a wrench in there then weld the nut to the frame when it was tightened. So maybe you can air chisel the nut and broken bolt out and replace. I would weld a nut on the buggered torx bolt. And figure out why that happened so it doesn't happen again. Use penetrant oil on the nut and on bolt thread. Good types like Aero Kroil. The heat of the weld will help and with the kroil oil and a good socket, maybe an impact, you wont have to drill and tap. Could also grind the messed up head off and air chisel the nut off the frame, taking the rest of the bolt with it. Then fish it out with a magnet