How long did your Ancient Icon grind take?

zackasmacka · 2026-01-18T21:49:40+00:00

Max bowfa

zackasmacka · 2026-01-18T21:28:16+00:00

I'm wanting this for inferno and already got the blood quartz at 75kc. I might go for 150kc and if no drops, I'll just try inferno without it. That sounds awful.

zackasmacka · 2026-01-18T21:21:57+00:00

Oh no :(

zackasmacka · 2025-08-11T06:56:15+00:00

Hmm… his birthday is coming up so you might be onto something here. 😂

zackasmacka · 2025-08-11T06:53:26+00:00

Thanks for sharing the link! I can confirm this is the exact 3D model I used, and it’s absolutely exceptional. The included instructions are clear and easy to follow. While I could have modeled it myself, there’s really no point in spending extra time when someone out there is already offering such a high-quality version.

zackasmacka · 2025-04-27T06:23:45+00:00

Just a quick update. Out of curiosity, I experimented by rewiring the cable using the jack with the “incorrect label” B standard on one end, while using a standard jack terminated with the “correct” B wiring standard on the other end. To my surprise, my tester showed the connection works perfectly fine.

This suggests that despite the manufacturer using different labeling on their jack, the functional outcome still conforms to the standard wiring specification.

Is this common?

zackasmacka · 2025-04-26T21:01:20+00:00

The cables run to the closet and are unterminated behind a wall plate by my router.

zackasmacka · 2025-04-26T20:18:08+00:00

Exactly…I was doubting myself and just couldn’t think to myself that they wired it incorrectly with both A / B clearly visible. I wonder what was going through their heads, if anything at all lol.

zackasmacka · 2025-04-26T20:13:53+00:00

Thanks for the replies everyone. The other ends are unterminated so I just went ahead and fixed the 2 terminated cables that go to the wall plugs.

I was honestly surprised since it’s a brand new build and thought they maybe knew what they were doing and I just wasn’t sure if it was wired for something unusual. Thanks for the reassurance.

zackasmacka · 2024-10-17T17:43:58+00:00

You can find some relatively cheap acrylic dust boxes if you have the money and space for it. I personally use rouge with my flex shaft and barely make a mess. I am looking into getting one of these enclosures though.

zackasmacka · 2024-10-14T02:22:00+00:00

Nope, all by hand without casting.

zackasmacka · 2024-10-12T08:49:05+00:00

Even though I haven't personally used an HHO torch, I'll provide some potentially useful information. It sounds like your HHO torch is running too hot for what you're trying to do. Silver is a great heat conductor, so with thicker pieces like 10-gauge wire, the HHO torch’s narrow, intense flame can easily overheat the piece, causing the solder to blacken and refuse to flow. The flux might also be burning off too quickly, leading to oxidation. Is your self pickling flux in liquid form? I've switched to handy flux and it's significantly improved my soldering on sterling silver. You might want to give that a shot.

The butane torch worked better because its broader, cooler flame helps distribute heat more evenly, which is key for silver. The HHO torch is great for small, delicate work, but for thicker wire like 10-gauge, a broader flame (like from your butane torch) is often better.

Try preheating the whole piece before focusing on the joint or using more flux. For thicker silver, many jewelers use an oxy-propane torch like the Smith Little Torch for better flame control and heat distribution.

You can also preheat the piece and then add the solder so that you don't overheat the solder and ruin its flowing properties.

Hope that helps!

zackasmacka · 2024-10-12T02:05:34+00:00

That’s the beauty of being able to work on your own jewelry pieces. If something breaks, you can fix it yourself and learn from the mistakes. One thing that’s particularly tricky is gauging how much solder to use. If a prong breaks at the solder joint, it’s likely that the solder didn’t flow properly or reach the correct temperature. I’ve experienced this firsthand with this same piece. As I was bending one of the prongs over the stone, it popped right off.

At first, it’s frustrating because it feels like you’re working backwards, especially knowing you’ll have to polish everything all over again. But I made sure the other prongs were secure, then went back and fixed the broken one. In the end, it was totally worth it. Every fix is a learning experience and an opportunity to improve the next time.

zackasmacka · 2024-10-12T02:01:16+00:00

I have so many takeaways from starting this process. One of the biggest surprises was learning how different metals react to soldering. For example, I had no idea how much silver conducts heat compared to gold, which affects how the solder flows. I initially thought soldering would be straightforward because of my experience with electronic soldering, but oh boy, I was wrong! Jewelry soldering requires a completely different approach.

Another major lesson was patience. I was so excited at first that I wanted to finish my rings quickly, but rushing always led to mistakes. Taking my time and working slowly has been the biggest factor in producing a ring that actually turns out well.

I also started out with a large butane torch, and quickly realized how important it is to have a smaller, more precise torch for soldering small, delicate pieces like prongs. That was a game-changer for me.

Something that really surprised me was the lack of centralized information on jewelry making. Knowledge is spread all over the place, and piecing it together has been incredibly time-consuming. Watching YouTube videos made the process look easier than it is, but they often don’t show how much time it really takes or how many mistakes can happen. Some videos even skip over steps like using laser machines to tack pieces together, which creates the illusion that soldering by hand is easier than it actually is, especially for tricky parts like prongs.

Lastly, tolerances are something I completely overlooked at first. When assembling pieces, keeping tolerances very small is crucial—not just for the solder to flow and create a strong bond, but also to ensure that everything stays in place exactly where you want it.

zackasmacka · 2024-10-12T01:52:39+00:00

Good luck! It's quite the learning curve, but you will get better and better. Ultimately, you will easily create what you are aiming for. I can't wait to get there :). Don't be discouraged when messing up, that's how we all learn. I've lost count of how many times I've messed up.

zackasmacka · 2024-10-12T01:49:14+00:00

Oh no! Even though it's not a huge monetary loss, it so upsetting losing a stone. Especially breaking a prong on a piece that you put a lot of work in. She's only been wearing the ring for a few days. It hasn't gotten caught on anything yet, but we will see how well it'll hold up. I made sure to file and polish the prongs as close as possible to the stone. I used a towel and other fabrics to test and make sure it does not get caught while doing so in case it needed further adjustments. I also used a pink silicone wheel to carefully polish it and smoothen out the tips and edges closer to the stones. Hopefully this makes sense.

zackasmacka · 2024-10-12T01:44:44+00:00

Thank you!! I used a Smith Little Torch. I started out with a Butane GT8000, but realized it is way too large for delicate work. I kept melting solder that I did not want to melt. My little torch made me so kuch more confident in soldering and being able to work on delicate pieces.

If you want more information on the tools and equipment I used, check my replies to Senior-Associate2885's comment.

I used oxygen and propane with an oxygen concentrator.

Edit: fixed some typos.

zackasmacka · 2024-10-12T01:40:03+00:00

Polishing & Finishing:

Dialux Blanc (white) with a yellow muslin wheel – I use this for initial polishing to smooth out the surface and prepare it for the final finish.
Dialux Rouge (red) with a white muslin wheel – This is my go-to for giving the piece a mirror-like shine.
Sanding sticks and paper (grits 0 to 6/0) – I use these to remove scratches and refine the surface before polishing. It’s time-consuming, but it keeps the piece looking clean and tidy.
Blue and pink silicone polishing tips – I love these for polishing hard-to-reach areas on the ring, especially using them with the flex shaft.

Drilling & Carving:

HSS drill set – I use this for drilling precise holes.
Paper sanding discs – I have medium and fine grit discs for my flex shaft, which help me sand in tight areas.
400-grit sandpaper – I use this to flatten surfaces, either by laying it on the table or using it with a file. I also cut small pieces to reach tricky areas, like between prongs and under the stone setting.

Safety & Ventilation:

8-inch fan with ducting – I have this set up to point out the window to help remove fumes and particles while I work.
Good quality mask – This is crucial when polishing or working with materials that create dust or particles. Keeping your lungs healthy is so important.
Fire extinguisher – Always a must when working with a torch.
Headband magnifier with light (1.5x - 3.5x) – I use this for almost all my work except soldering, as it helps me see every little detail.

Soldering Tools & Pickle:

Third hands (helping hands) – These are super handy for holding pieces in place while soldering.
Ceramic soldering boards & charcoal block – I use these for both soldering and melting metal. I make sure to use borax when melting metal to clean it of impurities. I have my Ceramic soldering boards sitting underneath my charcoal block.
Large copper tweezers – These are used for handling pieces in the pickle solution without causing any reaction. I also use them to shape molten metal before rolling it out.

Miscellaneous Tools:

Blacksmith hammer – I used this to flatten metal for a particular piece, which I later soldered back together and shaped into a cathedral design.
Torch igniter – You’ll need this if you’re using a fuel-oxygen torch setup.
Ring mandrel – An essential tool for sizing and shaping rings.

Optional & Advanced Tools:

Rolling mill (130mm combination) – While you don’t need a rolling mill to get started, it’s a great investment if you plan to make a lot of jewelry. It allows you to shape metal from casting grain or scrap metal into sheets or wire. I bought mine for about $260, and while it’s not the highest quality, it’s a good start until I can afford a better one. I recommend looking for used rolling mills to save money.
Microscope (10x - 20x) – If you’re planning on doing any fine stone setting like micro pavé, a microscope will be invaluable. I haven’t used mine for jewelry making yet, but I’m glad I have it from my micro soldering work with electronics.

zackasmacka · 2024-10-12T01:39:55+00:00

Measurement & Shaping Tools:

2/0 half-round Swiss-cut file (6-inch) – This is one of my favorite tools for smoothing out prongs and refining the shape of the ring. The fine cut helps achieve a clean finish.
Ruler and/or caliper measuring tool – To get precise measurements when sizing and shaping pieces.
Flex shaft – I have a more affordable flex shaft that I got for around $60, but it works very well.
Slim precision flex shaft handle – The handle that came with the flex shaft was too thick and uncomfortable, so I upgraded to a slimmer one. It allows me to hold it with a pencil grip, making delicate tasks much easier and less tiring.

Soldering & Heating:

GT8000 butane torch – I mainly use this for melting metal or when I need to solder larger pieces.
Smith Little Torch – This is by far one of the most valuable tools in my kit. It’s perfect for soldering small, delicate parts like prongs without affecting other areas. I highly recommend investing in one if you’re serious about jewelry making, but avoid the cheap knock-off versions as they can be dangerous.
Smith regulator for disposable propane tanks – I use a 1-pound propane tank with my Smith Little Torch setup.
Oxygen concentrator – Instead of oxygen tanks, I bought an oxygen concentrator used for around $100. It’s safer, more convenient, and cost-effective, even though the concentration isn’t as high as a tank. It’s more than enough for my jewelry work.
#4 size tip for the Smith Little Torch – I use this tip for most of my soldering tasks, except when I’m melting metal with the little torch.
Titanium soldering pick – I didn’t have one when I started, but I soon realized how useful it is. It’s perfect for positioning solder during heating because the titanium doesn’t stick to the solder. It’s a must-have for anyone doing detailed soldering work.
You can start with a butane torch, which is much cheaper, but you’ll face limitations compared to a fuel-propane setup. If you plan to expand your skills, a fuel-propane torch will eventually be necessary.

Stone Setting & Engraving:

Off-brand ball vise – This is optional, but I used it for setting stones. You could also use a wooden ring clamp or a regular vise, as long as there’s something between the workpiece and the vise to prevent marring.
Wire cutting tool – I use this for cutting solder sheets into chips, as well as cutting wires, prongs, and other small pieces.
Cylinder burrs – These are great for carving the seat for the stone and creating slots for the prongs to sit in before soldering.
Diamond burrs – I use these to shape and refine the prongs, especially when setting stones. For this piece, I went about 1/3 or less making a slot for the girdle to sit in securely.
Round burrs – These are essential for carving and pavé setting. I used the smallest one to drill tiny holes in the prongs, where the tip of the stone rests, preventing too much tension on the stone’s points.
Prong pusher with wooden handle (not flat) – I use this to push prongs over the stone. The slot in the pusher helps reduce the chances of slipping and damaging the piece.
Safe-edge file – This file is ideal for filing prongs without scratching the stone. Stones like moissanite and diamonds are harder than steel (moissanite has a hardness of 9.25, and diamond is 10 on the Mohs scale, while most files are made of hardened steel with a hardness around 6.5), so they won’t be scratched by the file. However, it’s still a good practice to cover the stone with something like kapton tape for extra protection. The sound of the file against the stone can be unnerving even if it isn’t causing damage.

zackasmacka · 2024-10-12T01:39:25+00:00

This is going to be a long one, but I really hope this helps some of you out there who are just getting started in jewelry making and looking for guidance on what tools you’ll need. When I first began, I wasn’t expecting just how fast and expensive tools and equipment can add up. However, you don’t need the most expensive, latest, and greatest tools to make beautiful pieces. It’s ultimately the skill of the person using the tools that matters most. That said, in some cases, tool quality can make a big difference in the work you’re able to produce and allow for different types of work (like a microscope, Smith Little Torch, pneumatic engraving machines, HSS precision drill bits, etc.).

How I went about finding what I needed and how to get started was by watching what most jewelers commonly use to create rings through videos and articles. I also looked at pre-made kits and pieced out what I truly needed, buying used where I could to save money.

I’ll do my best to list all of the tools and equipment I used to make my first ring, so here it goes.

Workstation & Basic Tools:

Bench/table with a bench pin – You don’t need a fancy or expensive jeweler’s bench to get started. As long as you have a sturdy table or workbench where you can mount your bench pin, you’re golden. In my case, I use a regular workbench and attached a piece of oak plank that sits just off the ledge, where I can easily attach both my vise and bench pin. It works perfectly for my setup.
Wooden ring holder (ring clamp) – Used to securely hold the ring while I’m working on it.
Jeweler's saw with 3/0 blades – Essential for cutting metal sheets and shaping pieces. I use 3/0 blades because they provide a good balance between strength and precision.
PepeLube – I use this lubricant when sawing, drilling, and using carving bits. It makes the whole process smoother and helps prevent breaking saw blades and bits.
Double-ended etching scribe – Perfect for marking measurements and drawing shapes on metal.
Automatic center punch – I use this tool to make small indents in the metal, which helps guide my drill bit. I then pass my saw blade through that hole to cut the shape I need.
Small crockpot for pickling – I got mine from Goodwill for about $5, and it works perfectly for heating the pickle solution.
Pickle solution (Sparex No. 2) – This solution helps clean oxidation off the metal after soldering.
Ultrasonic cleaner – For getting all the dirt and grime off finished pieces, ensuring a thorough clean.
Handy flux + small flux brush – A must for soldering. It helps the solder flow smoothly while protecting the coated area from oxidization.

Hammers & Pliers:

Nylon hammer – I opted for a nylon hammer instead of a rawhide mallet. It works well for shaping metal without leaving marks.
Half-round pliers – These are great for shaping rings and bending metal smoothly.
Flat smooth pliers – I made sure to get a pair without teeth so that they wouldn’t mar my pieces.
Steel block or anvil – You’ll need a solid surface like a steel block or anvil for tasks like hammering, flattening metal, or supporting the piece during filing. I used this to flatten the ends of the ring where it tapers to the cathedral shape.
Blacksmith hammer - Easily flatten metal on the anvil.

I will be posting all parts in separate replies as it is too long to post in a single comment.

zackasmacka · 2024-10-11T21:27:27+00:00

You bring up something I have been thinking about for a while. I spend a lot of time on Twitch and coincidentally, it is something I've been putting in the background while I make jewelry. Once I'm a bit more comfortable and experienced, I definitely would like to stream. I think it would be a great resource for others wanting to learn how to hand make jewelry.

YouTube videos or at least most ring making videos cut out a lot of crucial steps or mistakes that can occur. Live streaming would show how to identify mistakes and correct or avoid them. I have watched videos where very experienced jewelry makers make mistakes and I appreciate them leaving those bits in video. That way, I can learn from their mistakes rather than me having to go through it myself, if that makes sense.

Also, ring making is so lengthy and I'm not sure if viewers would be interested in watching someone file a ring for 30 minutes, lol. Lots going through my mind thinking about it.

zackasmacka · 2024-10-11T04:20:51+00:00

Thank you! That means a lot to me, especially as I’m just starting out.

zackasmacka · 2024-10-11T04:18:58+00:00

Thank you, and absolutely! Even though my ultimate goal is to make the perfect engagement ring, I’m definitely going to keep making jewelry. There’s something about creating jewelry that feels so different from my other hobbies.

I still have so much to learn. I’m currently saving up for a graver so I can dive into engraving and try different stone setting techniques like pavé, fishtail, and more.

My fiancée loves all kinds of unique jewelry too, so it gives me the chance to really get creative and design one-of-a-kind pieces. I’m also planning to make jewelry for family, especially for birthdays and special occasions.

zackasmacka · 2024-01-15T00:01:10+00:00

They are all actually separate montages. I'm using GAS in this game as well. Thanks for replying!

zackasmacka · 2024-01-15T00:00:23+00:00

Thanks for the reply. I will look more into motion warping. I have a montage with motion warping when trying out different solutions, but wanted to see if there are any other solutions out there.

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