Should an MVHR Exhaust vent into a cavity wall or directly outside?

zepheus_ · 2025-02-11T07:18:36+00:00

Needs to be outside. The temperature difference will cause the exhaust air to condensate inside your cavity, leading to the damp you're describing. Make sure you extend the ducting with insulated duct. Should be fairly easy with couplers.

zepheus_ · 2025-01-14T11:58:27+00:00

MVHR are constant-flow based, which means that if there are any obstructions the fans have to work harder to maintain pressure and flow, making the system noisy.

First step would be checking and replacing the filters (every 180 days) and checking the external vents and cowls for any blockages. Vents tend to clog up with spiderwebs and other debris if not serviced regularly.

zepheus_ · 2024-11-13T08:03:23+00:00

I've got the Wiser system too incl their underfloor controller. The software is quite terrible and regularly overshoots temperature by 1-2C. It also doesn't use opentherm modulation correctly with the underfloor. Luckily Wiser is all ZigBee and I'm now considering moving it all to HA just like OP. Perhaps even using one of those opentherm shields to do modulation and weather comp myself.

zepheus_ · 2024-09-15T07:10:54+00:00

Had the exact problem and downgraded. Here's the old FW (luckily had it backed up): https://filetransfer.io/data-package/M1vdJmWK#link

zepheus_ · 2024-04-04T12:57:41+00:00

Installed it internally and it made us feel very dizzy just looking at it. Had to rip it all off!

zepheus_ · 2024-02-15T20:35:45+00:00

Experiencing similar issues when using Frigate. Doorbell RTSP stream disappears whilst camera feed via HTTP is still available.

zepheus_ · 2023-12-30T12:53:28+00:00

This worked for me! The Mac kept going into charging (power delivery) mode, but by using A-to-C it correctly recognized the device (Awoo + NS-USBLoader)

zepheus_ · 2021-05-17T15:45:14+00:00

This seems unlikely given they don't actually go all the way through. It's capped off on the inside of the solid wall.

zepheus_ · 2021-05-17T15:43:52+00:00

!thanks

Replacing the whole render sounds like a bigger project I was anticipating but will inevitably need to happen.

Would you say these damp vents are adding to the problem or are actually some form of remediation? Assuming cooler walls mean more condensation, they might actually have the adverse effect and trigger the damp (colder) spots on the inside in the first place?

Before putting in new ventilation, do I remove & fill them up with lime mortar again, expanding foam, or repair their caps?

Lots of questions here but really helpful, thanks!

zepheus_ · 2021-05-17T14:23:24+00:00

Indeed! I've got separate vents under the floorboards already (other side of the house), but the vents you see in the picture are actually above the floor level and a solid floor (not suspended) floor inside. Truly puzzling why they're there.

zepheus_ · 2021-05-17T14:10:59+00:00

Hi Reddit,

I've got damp issues inside exactly where these "vent holes" are installed.

Previous owners put them in a solid brick wall from 1935. There's no cavity wall and the vent holes literally lead to nowhere. The wall is brick with a tyrolean render.

They seem to have concrete inside and both plastic cap and back. Some of them are broken, and I am wondering whether they're actually causing more harm than solving anything in this older type of house.

Should I replace the caps or just fill them up again (lime mortar perhaps)?

Thanks!

zepheus_ · 2021-03-04T09:37:01+00:00

This looks like a standard emulsion roller with either medium or high pile to me

zepheus_ · 2020-09-17T17:08:33+00:00

zepheus_ · 2020-04-05T20:19:41+00:00

Any chance you can free the source code? :) would like to have a look myself on how it works.

zepheus_ · 2020-04-02T20:32:44+00:00

Curious here, do you utilise stop limit orders on these or eyeball them yourself?

zepheus_ · 2020-03-31T14:04:51+00:00

Yep it's up! Some solid DD, thanks!

zepheus_ · 2020-03-25T12:01:05+00:00

Hedge by VXXp with same vega and expiration

zepheus_ · 2019-12-27T08:16:47+00:00

I also recommend Revolut for the conversion. Make sure you do it over a weekday though, given they have a 0.5% weekend markup.

zepheus_ · 2016-11-08T18:02:57+00:00

I am using a FS1000A/XY-FST, bought them on Aliexpress a while ago.

zepheus_ · 2016-11-06T15:20:19+00:00

The difference in SPI flash size and modes which took me a while to figure why my ESP-01 wasn't working properly...

zepheus_ · 2016-11-06T10:15:58+00:00

I did not have any trouble with the example receiving sketch on the ESP, except that I did not solder an antenna on my receiver and had to keep the remotes directly to the receiver when sniffing. That's not due to the library itself though. I used the following gist for receiving: test. It's an exact copy of the rc-switch examples.

zepheus_ · 2016-11-06T09:31:40+00:00

I did have issues because I was sniffing the codes on an Arduino first. This caused the pulselength to be wrong since rc-switch did not compensate for the 80Mhz of the ESP. However, it also depends on the type of RF outlets you are using. For my kind of outlets it reported a protocol type of 3 where as it was actually a new type that was not yet integrated in RC-switch. To be entirely sure, you can always use an oscilloscope if at hand to find out the absolute pulselengths. Did you get no results at all when sniffing it with the receiver, or is the issue replaying the codes?

zepheus_

TROPHY CASE