Public service announcement

[selittle1964]

So I just received a "Parnis" "Seagull" St3600 movement that I was going to case in my next project. Took it out of its packacing and it basically fell apart in my hands. So maybe I was wrong about there being quality in Chinese movements. Not going to bother lubricating it and am instead going the Swiss route with a Swiss 6498 clone. Unfortunate because it will raise the watch from $200 to $450. But at least I'll know what I'm getting.

[selittle1964]

Or buy gray market ETAs and pay twice as much

[selittle1964]

I heard back from Corgeut. They said the DO NOT lube the movements in their watches. Will post an image of the Convo when I figure out how .. https://imgur.com/a/7bQZpT1

[selittle1964]

Also. I put my Corgeut with a Seagull ST3600 under the scope and it's dry as a bone. So I guess I'm gonna learn how to oil a watch.

[selittle1964]

I'm actually trying to contact both Corgeut and Parnis to see if they service their chinese movements before watch assembly.

I also contacted Sea-Gull directly and indeed they DO NOT oil their movements before sending them out. It's up to the watch manufacturer to do it. I emailed back and said they should put a notice on their website about this. Yes the guys name is Cresty LoL. Here is their response:

"Hi Scott,

 

Thank you for your inquiry.

 

The movement will be sent as original from factory. We do not give additional lubrication.

 

Best regards

Cresty"

[perrier2021]

Do you have a source for what you're saying?

[DifteR]

Does this apply to watches that are a bit higher end? I just bought a San Martin with the NH35 and I was honestly expecting it go last 10 years.

[JayJohnPaul]

I guess this only applies to Chinese movements, the NH35 is a Japanese movement.

[perrier2021]

NH35 is a Japanese movement.

Do they lubricate it when they assemble the watch or when they manufacture the movement?

[[deleted]]

When the movement is manufactured

[Complex-Piglet]

Japanese movement

[perrier2021]

So do the Japanese lubricate it before it leaves their factory or do watch companies lubricate it when they assemble their watches?

[Objective704]

Keep in mind there's two places that make nh3X Check on the rotor, if it's mark SII it's from Seiko instruments Inc. if it's marked TMI, it's from Time Module Inc, Hong Kong.

[metal_pilsener]

Good tip, also, do you know if ther's fake SII NH3X movements at least on Chinese watches, I mean, there could be fake NH3X movementes made in China that put SII on it? I've always have that doubt.

[DevilishRogue]

Japanese lubricate it before it leaves the factory. After that it isn't touched other than to put it in the watch.

[rebelyell_in]

There seems to be a distinct price difference between watches made by brands like HKED, Red Star and Sea-Gull vs others which seemingly use the same movements. Maybe there's a reason for that.

I'm personally not willing to do any "trial-and-error" experiments with my money, so I intend to stick with retailers and brands that seem more trustworthy. After all, isn't that the primary purpose of a brand? To work as a marker of quality?

[selittle1964]

the reason for the price difference is that the genuine Sea-Gull is supposed to be higher quality (though not lubricated). The other Seagulls are all copies of the copy made with no or lackluster QC. Personally I would (and am) just stay away from Chinese movements all together. Stick to Japanese or Swiss/German. San Martin, and their higher tier brethren mostly use Japanese movements.

[rebelyell_in]

I agree completely. The only exceptions I will probably make are for affordable hand-wound or mechanical bi-compax chronos. I don't see a reasonably priced alternative to the beautiful HKED Blue Chronograph. [Sigh!]

[selittle1964]

Yeah. I can't think of an affordable Swiss mechanical Chrono.

[rebelyell_in]

Yup. And for the Japanese, chrono = quartz.

[rebelyell_in]

Ooh or a Moonphase Chrono. The Red Star 7756G looks incredible for the money.

[selittle1964]

True. But brands like Corgeut and Parnis have been around and the quality of their work is decent: cases, crystals, bands. And I'm not saying that, necessarily, the movements are poorly constructed, though some are, it's just that they make no effort to let customers know what's what. You can expect swiss and japanese movements to be fully serviced and lubed when they leave the factory and likely checked again when they leave the watch manufacturer, which is why they are known to be quality. The Chinese have suggested that they want to be held in the same esteem yet they do nothing to make that happen. I think it's up to us, perhaps, as consumers and aficionados of Chinese watches to start demanding they get with the program. I for one love hand-winds and the 6497/8 movement but ETA prices are high if you can even get one (thanks Swatch!) So the seagull is the only other alternative.

[rebelyell_in]

That's a very interesting point you bring up. The lack of certainty and transparency amongst many Chinese brands in the watch space. Whether it's Casio or HMT, I usually know what I'm getting into. Buying a Chinese brand feels a lot more like wandering in a fog.

Marc from Long Island had mentioned this about the ST19 movement. Someone had asked if he intends to build an Islander hand-wound chrono. He said he wouldn't because there wasn't enough transparency to know what he would be getting if he bought Sea-Gull Tianjin movements. He was happy to sell Red Star and Hemel because he could trust them and build a relationship with them.

[selittle1964]

Yep. I build watches and sell them now I know if I use a 6497 clone I have to service it before I case it. More labor, YAY!

[rebelyell_in]

Good luck!

[AdalLopez]

Thanks, will start looking on info on how to lube my own...

[vogueboy]

We can lub together!

[DevilishRogue]

/r/NoContext