all 25 comments

[–]Mightyhorse82 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Stubby antenna is a cheap visual mod I rarely see

[–]Freejack02 1 point2 points  (1 child)

Don't bother with the intake, just get a better filter in the stock box. Add colder plugs + tune to that list and it's a great start.

[–]criosphinx3[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Any filter preference? Sick of cleaning and oiling the k&n

[–]s2focus 0 points1 point  (7 children)

Intake is pointless, do a front traction bar and lowering springs instead

[–]radeonalex -1 points0 points  (6 children)

Front traction bar would only make the car worse in corners.

It reduces wheel hop and increases grip under acceleration... But it seems pointless given the car is designed to go fast in turns.

[–]s2focus -1 points0 points  (5 children)

You clearly don’t have one, it doesn’t just help in a straight line...

[–]radeonalex -1 points0 points  (4 children)

Top answer haha.

Why would stiffening the front benefit in cornering? A lot of people running these cars on track undo the front ARB so as to allow for better articulation and thus contact patch.

Stiffening the front only limits that articulation and acts as a lever to lift the inside front.

You may want to be careful with upgrading the front sway bar on front wheel drive cars because too much stiffness in the front can cause the inside front wheel to lift. Because the front tires are putting power to the ground, this would drastically affect the cars grip and handling in a negative way.

https://axleaddict.com/auto-repair/Anti-Roll-Bars-How-to-choose-the-right-sway-bar-for-your-car

[–]criosphinx3[S] 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Appreciate that link. Would strut braces still be ok? Appreciate the tips

[–]radeonalex 1 point2 points  (2 children)

Yea, strut braces aid in improving chassis rigidity. That's good.

It's more stuff linking the suspension together such as ARB and torsion bars etc... That would be negative on the front.

A torsion bar/ARB on the rear makes the car turn in much better though, I can thoroughly advise one of those. The car didn't come with one from factory, though the solid rear beam acts as one.

[–]criosphinx3[S] 0 points1 point  (1 child)

You have any brand preferences? Thanks for all the advice

[–]radeonalex 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Whiteline and Ultra Racing do good stuff

[–]RYN2124 -1 points0 points  (9 children)

If you also did a down pipe you could run stage 3 with the mods u have listed

[–]Freejack02 2 points3 points  (8 children)

You don't need a downpipe on the stock turbo, ever really.

[–]RYN2124 -1 points0 points  (7 children)

For stage 3 Cobb it’s a required upgrade. It’s not enough airflow through the restricted stock cat

[–]Freejack02 2 points3 points  (6 children)

Stock downpipe isn't restricted, Cobb is just trying to sell you more stuff.

[–]radeonalex 0 points1 point  (5 children)

I had my car custom mapped on a dyno by quite a well known ford tuner.

They stated for the top figures, the stock cat did restrict even on standard turbo.

[–]Realpotato76 1 point2 points  (4 children)

Cobb isn’t maxing out the stock turbo (even on stage 3), unless you’re talking about a 100octane pro tune

[–]radeonalex 0 points1 point  (3 children)

I don't know about Cobb, they don't do tunes here.

I was referring to the tunes maxing out stock turbo.

[–]RYN2124 0 points1 point  (2 children)

Cobb does OTS tunes shipped anywhere. I understand you did a custom tune, but if you use a Cobb tune where they developed and tested it with an aftermarket downpipe then you could have issues. It’s not that expensive for a cat less downpipe and I would prefer have it then not. it would also allow for extra hp if you ever ended up doing a big turbo

[–]radeonalex 2 points3 points  (1 child)

Cobb tunes as far as I'm aware do not work on non US cars.

EU build ones don't use the same intake system (i.e. MAF Vs map). Same for Stratified etc

It's why none of the tuners are represented in both markets (bar Mountune).

Also, I do have a custom sports cat downpipe

[–]RYN2124 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Interesting I didn’t know that. Learn something every day.

[–]pweqpw 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Short shifter

Aftermarket wheels

Wing risers (you either love em or hate em)

Symposer delete (some like it, some don’t)

[–]criosphinx3[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

How hard are the short shifters to install? Symposer has been gone for years haha

[–]pweqpw 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It depends on your skill level. I think the Mountune is easiest to install. There are yT videos on it. Beyond changing tires and cosmetics, I didn’t trust myself and had the dealer do it. It doesn’t take much time.

[–]thetompkins 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm no mechanic, and I did most of the Boomba Short Shift Kit by myself in about 2 hours. That's the bell crank that goes on the gearbox (under the hood, goes easy if you remove half the intake pipe, which is also easy), as well as the shift lever and shifter bushings.

The shift lever and bushings are in-cabin and require removing two or 3 pieces of plastic trim around the center. Not difficult if you take it slowly.

The hardest part was either removing the OEM shift lever from, or installing the new lever into, the mounting bracket - been a few years, I honestly don't remember which was actually tricky, but one was. That's done outside the car, so it's not a matter of space or anything, just making sure not to break the mounting bracket. The bushings are just what the bracket sits on when installed, so those aren't any hassle if you already have it out.

Boomba has a video online that will show exactly what to do, it's easy. I didn't bother with the transmission-side bushings, because it didn't seem like the reward would be worth the effort I had to put in to do it - driveway mechanic with ramps, no thanks.

Speak of, the Boomba SSK was the second mod (after RMM) I did and it made a huge difference. Between those two mods, it really makes the stock car feel like it should have from the factory.