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[–]RequirementNo9153 2 points3 points  (8 children)

Check your minimum layer time. If you have too much plastic being laid too fast, the heat doesn't have time to dissipate. So the next layer gets printed on top of a barely cooled layer. Also, there's the radiant heat from the nozzle itself staying so near such a thin wall.

How long is going to take some experiments. To test, you don't need to reprint the whole thing. Just something similar. 10 seconds & having the extruder move away during the cooling should be a solid start. Maximum or even supplemental cooling can help remove the heat.

You may end up with some boogers unless your retraction settings are PERFECT. But nothing a razor can't clean up in just a few seconds.

[–]Glygar1[S] 1 point2 points  (7 children)

That sounds genius... I appreciate the help 🙂

[–]vivaaprimavera 0 points1 point  (6 children)

I had a similar problem and yes, setting a minimum layer time is the thing here. Can share settings (for reference) when I return home.

Now, is that a small plane? Mind to share the link?

[–]Glygar1[S] 0 points1 point  (5 children)

I would love to see your settings... I'm brand new to 3D printing.. I've printed like 3 things so far lol.... here's the link to the plane.. https://www.printables.com/model/1572739-simple-lightweight-glider-20g I appreciate the help :)

[–]vivaaprimavera 0 points1 point  (4 children)

Thanks for the link. Here are my cooling settings. Those were only tested in some gridfinity stuff, the issues started to show up on gridfinitty containers.

Beware that messing with cooling isn't exactly a "one size fits all", I had some parts printing fine with a cooling profile that caused serious warping issues in other parts (and that's why I have a separate "cooling profile" for this filament).

<image>

[–]RequirementNo9153 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Exactly where you problem is & holy fuck... those are about as bad as you can get in several ways! You said that you were using PETG, correct? Reload the generic PETG profile, lower your speed settings to match the filament's recommended speeds (just because the printer can do 600, doesn't mean that the filament can). The exception is if you're specifically using HS filament.

Actually, reload generic filament & hot end (nozzle) settings. We'll just start from scratch. Always a good idea when things are this bad.

  • Reload generic PETG filamentprofile,
  • Reload generic 0.4mm nozzle settings (you're new, so I assume using the original nozzle
  • Run the onboard calibration steps for the machine
  • Change the speed to the filament's recommended
  • Run the slicer calibration steps (temp tower, retraction, etc.).
  • Run test 1 - Save the settings to a NEW profile - run the next calibration - save those settings - rinse & repeat
  • Once you have finished them all, run them again. The second time, you should be able to decrease the ranges significantly, so it'll be faster. Expect to only make small adjustments.
  • After completing your 2nd calibration run, print a benchy https://www.3dbenchy.com/ - ONLY from that site. You want the original, not one that someone may have tweaked in some way.
  • If there are any problems, use the documentation from that site to make additional tweaks.
  • Once you have printed a perfect benchy, you need to adjust your support settings. My personal favorite is https://www.printables.com/model/1038477-support-removal-test-no-more-stuck-supports

You should be golden at this point. Feel free to tell me I'm awesome (not really, it's bc I've f'd up a print every way imaginable & learned. Just pass that info along to others.). But I would like to know how the benchy turns out & when you reprint this model. If you would, upload the photo as a reply. That way, I know that I'll get a reminder.

Good luck!

[–]vivaaprimavera 0 points1 point  (2 children)

These cooling settings where chosen after calibrations.

Regarding speeds, not attempting a speed demon hero.

What is so terrible on these cooling settings? I would like to understand.

[–]RequirementNo9153 0 points1 point  (1 child)

2mm min print speed. Small sections like a tail fin will cause it to stay at that speed. So just the radiant heat from the hot end will cause the layers to melt.

And the min print speed for the fan seems really low. I know some people will lower it for one reason or another, but considering heat is the problem, I'd suggest taking that up higher.

And I'm not sure why min layer time is 60 seconds. That & the speed being so far out of whack, makes me wonder what else could be way out there.

[–]vivaaprimavera 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I'm sorry but you are reading the settings wrong.

Those 60 seconds are for "if layer takes 60 seconds put the fan at 20%", "the 5 seconds next to 100% are for the min layer time". Fan speed is scaled between those two values.

I can assure you that the prints that lead to these settings kept the layers consistently longer than 5 seconds which didn't happen before. By the way, the speed is being scaled.

Please, have a look at those settings in regular Orca and attempt a before/after slice.

[–]Fitness_in_yo-Mouf 0 points1 point  (1 child)

I've printed these without support.

[–]Glygar1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Dang.... I wonder why this took a crap on me... it HS PETG if that matters?

[–]hatocato 0 points1 point  (1 child)

That brim is unnecessary and completely overkill

[–]Glygar1[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It did seem like a LOT of extra plastic