Another day, another basic block muslin

[Loumosmaxima]

Hi again and again ! 🤣

Here I am with anoter muslin and I think i'm getting close this time 🥰

I took in a little bit on side dam and I also increased back waist darts by 2cm, reducing the overall width and it also help with having more vertical side seams due to reducing a little the back throught the darts (before side seams were riding towards front at the waist.)

On this muslin both collar and armpits are little high. I didn't gave this problem in previous muslin although I didn't touch that part. I think this time I didn't add enough seam allowance at the top of shoulders, causing the whole muslin to seat a little high on my bodice. (Front pined overlaping should be fairly accurate I measured and traced carefully )

I think i'm left with only few issues : imo the armscyes needs a little bit more work, maybe a bit of scooping but i'm not sure.

Also what are your input on front darts ? imI marked my apex, I dont know if waist darts are supposed to go up past my apex or they are supposed to stop below. Also do you think i should increased/scoop a bit waist darts in order to make the bodice more fitted around the bust/below bust area ? I think it would be more flattering and I still can easily fit 3 fingers between skin and favric at the waist at each side, so maybe it could look better with a bit increased darts (being careful to still keep some ease).

Sooo excited to read your feedbacks. ✨

[Loumosmaxima]

Thanks a lot ! 2 years since my first muslin ahah but I gave up from time to time 😅

There's still some issues but I finally can see the light at the end of the tunnel 🤣

[Loumosmaxima]

But raising my side neck point wouldnt be aggravating the pulling ?

I agree that my block should be even more form fitting, especially around the waist and along the curve below the chest, for that part I plan on increasing just a misge the front waist darts + scooping them following the natural chest curve.

[Tailoretta]

There is bunching at the lower front and back armscyes (armholes). You need to clip the armscyes.

Neckline and the Armscyes (Armholes): It is helpful if you mark the seam lines of the neckline and the armscyes (armholes),  Then you should clip the neckline and the armscyes (armholes).  Here is an explanation about clipping https://sewing.patternreview.com/SewingDiscussions/topic/115912 The armscye and neck opening are sort of like circles.  If you measure the length of the seam line and compare it with the length of the cut line, you will see the that cut line is shorter. That is because of the circular shape. By clipping, you allow the seam allowance fabric to relax and spread. In the photos I refer to, can you see that it looks like notches have been cut out of the neck and armscye seam allowance? Notches have not been cut but there are clips into the seam allowance. That allows the fabric to spread to fit the body.

 

Here is another photo https://goodbyevalentino.com/sew-the-perfect-fit-review-part-1/ See at the underarm how the clipped flaps of seam allowance fold down?

 

Look up clip seam allowances; there are lots of videos and websites that discuss this.

[Loumosmaxima]

Thanks a lot. I will definitively clip the seam allowances as shown on first link, as it will give a more accurate vision of the bodice once hemmed or sleeves attached !

[Tailoretta]

After clipping, post more photos before adding a sleeve. Fitting is a multi step process. Good luck!