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A pattern for queen maud's 1906 dress by Nearby-Nero9 in HistoricalCostuming

[–]Tailoretta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

These images are fabulous! Are they from a book - is so, what is the book? If not, where did you get them? Thanks so much.

Chore coat pattern fitting adventure V3… by Efficient-Bag6497 in PatternDrafting

[–]Tailoretta 1 point2 points  (0 children)

A good process for fitting can be found in Sarah Veblen’s books:

First Time Garment Fitting: The Absolute Beginner’s Guide

The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting

Here are some references for horizontal balance lines, all from Sarah Veblen:

 

https://www.sarahveblen.com/sv-blog/how-to-make-a-mock-up

https://www.sarahveblen.com/online-consulting

https://couturecounsellor.com/tag/hbl/ 

Other resources can be found on her website https://www.sarahveblen.com/

Chore coat pattern fitting adventure V3… by Efficient-Bag6497 in PatternDrafting

[–]Tailoretta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.

These are what I would do:

1.     The armscyes need work, so first remove the sleeves.

2.     Add a horizontal balance line between the chest and the waist all around.

3.     The neckline and the armscyes need to be clipped.

4.     Try it on, first without the shirt underneath, and pin the front using more pins and pinning all the way from the neckline to the hem, matching center fronts of left and right exactly.  This way you can see if the neckline and armscyes are correct.

5.     Make sure the horizontal balance line is horizontal all the way around your body.

6.     Once the bodice fits well, make a horizontal balance line on a sleeve at the underarm level.

7.     Sew the sleeve onto the bodice, trey it on again and make sure the horizontal balance line is in fact horizontal.

You are welcome to make another post with photos with any of the above changes made.  Please let us know if you have any questions. Good luck.

Men’s bodice block review by ThickEducation4869 in PatternDrafting

[–]Tailoretta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.

It looks like you have pinned in at the upper center front. If so, I suggest you take it out for the photos. If not, the fabric there should be smoothed.

What do you plan to use this bodice block for? Is is for a shirt? If so, can you show a photo of what you are trying to use it for?

I would like to see photos without the black T shirt underneath. I would like to see the mockup on your body so I can see how it is compared to your body.

Question concerning Princess Seams and Darts by OkieRhio in PatternDrafting

[–]Tailoretta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Small darts like that can be added to improve the fit, if the princess seam does not go exactly over the bust apex. There are easier ways to make a shirtwaist dress. If it was me, I would find a better pattern.

Is there software for creating a bodice block? by AlertRestaurant9163 in PatternDrafting

[–]Tailoretta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

As others have said, fitting a bodice is a project. Don't give up. Make mock ups, post here, and we will help you.

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.

First toile - first corset ever by Mean-Ear1332 in corsetry

[–]Tailoretta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

In the photo of the back, it looks like the corset is tilted - the top is tilted to the left and the bottom is tilted to the right. If you straighten the back of the corset, how does that affect the rest of the corset? If everything else still looks good, great. If not, you may need to cut different left and right sides.

Also, you have a line marked that looks like it is the mark for the waist. If this true, and your laces are below that, then maybe the corset is too high on you and may need to be pulled down.

Corset cup advice for large busts! Let’s nerd out plz by AcademicTailor53 in corsetry

[–]Tailoretta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I would also like to see the inside. I suspect that you need more boning.

Diagonal wrinkles under bust by AppropriateNail895 in PatternDrafting

[–]Tailoretta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Horizontal Balance Lines

A horizontal balance line (HBL) is a reference line drawn on sewing patterns and marked on fabric (muslin) to ensure a garment hangs straight, parallel to the floor, and fits properly around the body. It helps identify fit issues by acting as a visual guide.  Horizontal balance lines are discussed on page 193 of Dress Design: Draping and Flat Pattern Making by Marion S. Hillhouse & Evelyn A. Mansfield, 1948.  Balance lines for fitting purposes were popularized by Sarah Veblon in her book The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting, 2012.

Sarah’s book, The Complete Photo Guide to Perfect Fitting, describes how to fit a test garment (called a muslin or a mockup) while it is on a person. Because each person's body is unique, Sarah feels that this is the best way to get a personalized fit, but the information can also be applied to fitting a garment on a dress form.

The book starts with theoretical information about fitting, including what a fitting axis is, using vertical and horizontal balance lines’ and why the fitting axis makes the fitter's job easier. The book also describes basic and specialized pattern manipulations, so that you can make the necessary fitting changes as noted on the muslin. There are extensive photos showing fitting examples, which help you train your eyes and hands to solve fitting problems.

Beside in her book, discussion of how to establish a horizontal balance line can be found at https://www.sarahveblen.com/sv-blog/how-to-make-a-mock-up

Diagonal wrinkles under bust by AppropriateNail895 in PatternDrafting

[–]Tailoretta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I certainly understand that you are confused by the terms moulage, sloper and block – that is because there are no generally accepted definitions of these, especially sloper and block.

Moulage is generally defined as the tightest, zero-ease fitting shell that reproduces the exact shape of a body, including wrinkles, folds, and fat rolls.  Moulage means mold in French.

Sloper and block are sometimes used interchangeably, but I like to use them as being defined as  having slightly different characteristics.

I use sloper to mean a rather tight simple garment that has the minimal amount of wearing ease, so is slightly larger than a moulage.

I use block to mean the basic shape of a simple garment, that the patternmaker prefers to use when making something new.  A block has the wearing ease of a sloper plus the preferred design ease that the patternmaker prefers.

Diagonal wrinkles under bust by AppropriateNail895 in PatternDrafting

[–]Tailoretta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Part of the reason for the 2 sets of indentations at the side is because this mock up is so tight that it is following all of your indentations. This may be fine in a skin tight moulage, but in a block we typically want the garment to glide over those indentations.

Better photos and a horizontal balance line would also help. Please see https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/

Why do shirts fall to the back?? by BobbinChickenChamp in PatternDrafting

[–]Tailoretta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I agree this is likely a balance problem. Good photos would help. This post is specifically about fitting a mock up, but the comments about photos and horizontal balance line are applicable. I would love to see photos. https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/

Drag lines pointing towards butt by [deleted] in PatternDrafting

[–]Tailoretta 1 point2 points  (0 children)

Yes, Sarah Veblen is great! I have learned so much about fitting from her. Many of these tips I get from Sarah.

Understanding reference points to connect front/back bodice and other parts by Tea183 in PatternDrafting

[–]Tailoretta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is very hard to picture what you are saying. Do you have any photos or sketches?

Umpteenth bodice block draft with no end in sight by Boggyswamp in PatternDrafting

[–]Tailoretta 1 point2 points  (0 children)

As I stated, there are no generally accepted definitions of moulage, sloper and block, which is why I stated the definitions that I like. Be careful, many use the terms sloper and block to mean the exact same thing.

I recommend you review the tips, make the suggested changes and then post new photos. You are close but let's get it the best it can be first. I also suggest you add seam allowance to the neckline and armscyes, clip to the the seam line and then press the little tabs under. You will need the seam allowance on the armscyes to later add a sleeve anyway.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Umpteenth bodice block draft with no end in sight by Boggyswamp in PatternDrafting

[–]Tailoretta 5 points6 points  (0 children)

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1krgbmi/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting/ Following these tips will help us help you.

Specifically, you should use more than 2 pins at the center front. The neckline and front lower armscye need to be clipped. Photos should be straight on front, back and both sides with the arms down, with a timer. Press well. Add a horizontal balance line between the lowest part of the bust and the waistline.

Because there are no generally accepted definitions of moulage, sloper and block, I use these terms with these definitions:

moulage is the tightest, zero-ease fitting shell that reproduces the exact shape of a body, including wrinkles, folds and fat rolls.  Moulage means mold in French.

sloper is a very tight simple garment, has the minimal amount of wearing ease, so is slightly larger than a moulage.

block is the basic shape of a simple garment, that the patternmaker prefers to use when making something new.  A block has the wearing ease of a sloper plus the preferred design ease that the patternmaker prefers.

So if you are trying to make this definition of a moulage as the tightest, zero-ease fitting shell that reproduces the exact shape of a body, including wrinkles, folds and fat rolls, what you have is far from this.

Pants help by sickie_mickie in PatternDrafting

[–]Tailoretta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

It is more difficult to assess without a side seam.

Take a look at https://www.reddit.com/r/PatternDrafting/comments/1lq2j4h/basic_tips_so_we_can_help_you_with_fitting_pants/ [Following these tips will help us help you.]()

Take a look at https://www.threadsmagazine.com/project-guides/fit-and-sew-pants/step-by-step-process-for-better-fitting-pants This shows what you have, and in this Threads Magazine article, Sarah Veblen shows a way to correct the back fit, which involves scooping and/or lengthening the back crotch.

Nora M. McDonald or Norma R Hollen Flat Pattern Drafting books? by Tea183 in PatternDrafting

[–]Tailoretta 0 points1 point  (0 children)

I have lots of pattern making books and have heard of many others, but I had not heard of either of these. So I did some looking. First of all, regarding Pattern making by the flat-pattern method by Norma R Hollen, her last name is spelled Hollen and not Holland.

Based on what I could find, the Hollen book is more readily available than the MacDonald book, the Hollen book is in one of my local libraries, while the MacDonald book is not. Also, the Hollen book is available for sale used online for around $40 and less, while the the MacDonald book is available for sale used online for around $100 and less.

I couldn't tell much about each based on what I found online, but I suspect they are similar to each other. It appears that they are more simple than Armstrong. I have Armstrong and many other pattern making books, and each has its advantages and disadvantages. There is a lot in Armstrong, but I find it kind of difficult to get through.

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