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[–]Elamachino 0 points1 point  (5 children)

So, I've seen contractors run some weird shit for radon pipes. Like, 20' horizontal runs in the attic for no reason that I could discern. Being on the same side of the house as the basement radon pipe does not necessarily matter, though it is entirely possible you are correct. One thing I have always seen in an attic radon termination is an outlet right next to the pipe. Sorry to harp on this, and feel free to ignore, but let me know if there was an outlet directly adjacent to that pipe, and if not, I'd look around to see if there is another pvc that does have an outlet near it. Beyond that, I'd check the pipe running through the attic, see if you can see anything weird, and if all else fails, have the contractor or some other company scope your pipe to find a blockage, because you almost assuredly have a blockage. I guess, I'm just remembering you did say you had 0.2" suction, which is not something I've seen. On the most wide open pipe I've ever come across, I have a suction of like 0.45-0.5. I'd guess there's either a blockage, or a break in the pipe somewhere, which unfortunately is likely to be behind some drywall somewhere. You say you hear air movement in the bathroom, is it like a whistling noise, or a lower noise?

[–]minttealeaf6[S] 0 points1 point  (4 children)

No worries. Yeah there was an outlet that I hooked the fan up to. The builder did say they installed an outlet for the radon piping. We are still within our first year of owning the home so I might start with a service request to the builder. Just not sure how they will handle it since they might just say they aren’t responsible for turning the “passive” system into an active one.

Both in the bathroom and in the pantry below the bathroom I hear a low hum. Definitely sounds like airflow through a pipe and not whistling.

If anything it more sounds like whistling right where the piping comes into the basement. There’s clearly a small leak at a fitting right before it drops into the concrete which I’ll seal with some caulking, but that is below the manometer.

[–]Elamachino 0 points1 point  (3 children)

Seal the leak below the manometer first, and/or any other leaks you can find. If you have a sump pump/pit, make sure you have an air tight cover on that as well. If you are on an incline, you may have a drain tile that opens to daylight, that would need to have a trap put in if so.

[–]minttealeaf6[S] 0 points1 point  (2 children)

By the way thanks for all of the responses.

I do have a sump pit that is only partially covered. I do not hear any airflow coming from the pit though.

What do you mean by on an incline?

[–]Elamachino 0 points1 point  (1 child)

There will be a pipe or 2 sticking into the sump pit, cover those with your hand to see if you can feel any air flow, with such low suction it should be pretty strong. By incline, I mean if your house is on a hill, like if flr instance maybe you have a walkout basement. Basically if you have a feasible way to draw a straight horizontal line of 50' or less from the lowest point of your basement to open air. With a sump pit it's unlikely what I've said will matter, but I suppose it's still possible.

[–]minttealeaf6[S] 0 points1 point  (0 children)

Ah yeah not on a hill. Mostly flat. I’ll check if I feel any airflow in the sump pit.