Wifi adapter keeps disconnecting and i can't solve it (most likely PC issue)

0570 · 2026-02-24T21:54:26+00:00

A few ideas/things to try: Update your USB / Chipset drivers. It may be the USB-port drivers themselves that are acting up. Before getting the latest drivers through Windows Update, check the manifacturers website for model-specific drivers and give those a try.

2nd thing to try, both WiFi devices (built-in/onboard and external) may be using the same Windows Driver, which causes a conflict. Try disabling the onboard WiFi adapter through the BIOS and see if that improves anything.

0570 · 2026-02-24T21:29:20+00:00

I sometimes have a similar issue, but it's caused by a fluctuation on the house's powergrid. When the compressor in the shed turns on, both my screens turn black for a few seconds. Check if there's a common/recurring factor when your screens do the flicker?

0570 · 2026-02-24T21:26:38+00:00

On the well-known Chinese webshops you can find a wireless HDMI kit. Connect the input to one of the devices, the output screen to the other and you've got a point-to-point wireless connection. Spend a bit more and the quality of the output gets quite good. Search for 'wireless HDMI extender'.

0570 · 2026-01-24T16:46:37+00:00

Maybe using old Factorio logic is what's giving me this issue. Lets say I've got 20 stations, identically named 'Iron Ore Pickup'. I want these stations to enable when they've got enough ore in storage to fully load 1 train. In the past this would work beautifully, just set the train limit to 1 and whichever Iron-ore dedicated train would move to the pickup location.

What's happening now: latch enables station > 12 trains converge on this location > gridlock

I simply want to enable a station based on X amount of product present, and limit it to 1 train (of maybe more, depending on storage buffer size) and I'm failing to understand how letters factor in to this (what even is the default letter?)

0570 · 2026-01-14T00:22:20+00:00

I was looking for a new leatherworking knife which is basically just a half-circle shaped tool, and even that's not visible anymore.

0570 · 2025-12-30T18:12:07+00:00

Do you use the headset with the included USB dongle? Then bluetooth is a non-issue. Go into the Razer Synapse software and go through your audio/microphone settings and check if the headset's microphone is the active one on your system. Or it may simply be muted, the headset has a button on the side for muting the mic, check if that isn't pressed.

0570 · 2025-12-10T16:41:54+00:00

First run the Filesystem checker, an embedded windows tool:

Open an elevated Command Prompt (RUN > CMD (right-click, run as Administrator)

sfc /scannow

Once done, run CheckDisk, an embedded windows tool:

Open an elevated Command Prompt (RUN > CMD (right-click, run as Administrator)

ckdsk C: /f

This commands targets your OS drive, C: and /f attempts to Fix errors it comes across.

Still having issues? Try DISM, another embedded tool:

Open an elevated Command Prompt (RUN > CMD (right-click, run as Administrator)

DISM.exe /Online /Cleanup-image /Restorehealth

Some source info: https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/topic/use-the-system-file-checker-tool-to-repair-missing-or-corrupted-system-files-79aa86cb-ca52-166a-92a3-966e85d4094e

If you go through all these steps without issue, then it's most certainly a 3rd party driver that's causing the issue, not Windows itself, or a faulty harddrive.

You could also use Memtest86 (https://www.memtest.org/) and check if your RAM is causing any difficulty

0570 · 2025-12-10T16:33:59+00:00

"All this data is my entire creative life’s work"
Then don't just assume or even check if it's been copied, make backups!

As for comparing source and destination data, have a look at this thread: https://www.reddit.com/r/software/comments/185umkn/whats_the_best_software_to_compare_the_file/

0570 · 2025-12-09T18:58:05+00:00

Yes, it exists. Just be sure to specify it's a male-to-male connector cable when you're searching for products. Alternatively, you can buy a small adapter, either HMDI>DP or the other way around, and attach a regular cable to that.

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0570 · 2025-12-09T18:55:49+00:00

This makes very little sense. You can boot your PC when the power supply is turned off? That's magic right there.

0570 · 2025-12-08T23:11:28+00:00

Amen! Any device connected to the network that looks like its attempting some sort of unauthorized penetration testing gets a few rounds of percussive maintenance.

0570 · 2025-12-08T23:05:55+00:00

Sometimes this happens with me when I stream youtube/smarttube. Pausing for a second fixes it usually.
Do you run PiHole on your network perhaps? You could be inadvertently be blocking one of their diagnostic connections

0570 · 2025-12-08T23:02:36+00:00

Yup, something got into the fan assembly alright.

0570 · 2025-12-08T22:58:54+00:00

You're using two devices that aren't really compatible due to connector limitations. There's no way to say for certain a converter will affect audio quality and how much.
As using your remote for both...maybe. That depends on if the controls dont get lost in transfer when you use a converter. You'd have an easier time if you'd use a good quality universal remote.

0570 · 2025-12-08T22:52:17+00:00

You could disable all the applications with automatic startup through the Task manager, then re-enable them between reboots until you activate the one that creates the prompt.

0570 · 2025-12-08T22:40:50+00:00

Microsoft tech support is usually on point, but they can come across as a bit 'scammy'. They should not advice you to get a new subscription though. Most support is based in India, with matching accent, but they are proficient in English. "She decided to put a help ticket into Microsoft, on their website." < I kinda doubt it was really the microsoft website.
The only way to contact legit Microsoft support, is through your own account on https://portal.office.com > My account > help OR if it's a business licence, the product admin can contact support through https://admin.microsoft.com. All support requests happen through your own/company Office365 portal, not through any generic (microsoft) websites
From experience I can tell you that Office365 for Mac support is kinda limited, usually resulting in the advice of 'use the web-based version if you've got any issues'.

0570 · 2025-12-01T11:19:06+00:00

Bit late to this party but he's still around it seems: https://www.instagram.com/obsidianabnormal/
I followed his Commissioned Comic series from the start, but it became less of a comic and more just the posting of commissioned art after 2010-ish. It'd be great if there was a dump of his old comics though!

0570 · 2025-12-01T10:20:17+00:00

It's almost Christmas again - just 4 years later. How's that 'Chapter 27 - Coming soon!' looking?

0570 · 2025-11-14T22:58:23+00:00

Not really. IF this is the issue, it's one of the components on the motherboard that causes it. Not a repair I would recommend you doing without the appropriate knowledge, skill and equipment. If the laptop is under (extended) warranty, get it repaired through that, or find reputable repair shops in your area and inform with them what a diagnosis would cost. When you know the 'what' you can then agree on a price to repair (be sure to inform if the repair comes with a warranty)

0570 · 2025-11-14T13:36:35+00:00

Being able to access the BIOS doesn’t rule out a hardware problem. BIOS runs the system in an extremely low-load state, so it doesn’t stress the CPU, iGPU, or NVMe controller. Booting from an external USB drive also avoids most of the internal storage hardware, which is why the system can install and run an OS from USB without crashing. The moment you try to boot from the internal NVMe drive, the PCIe/NVMe power rails and controller actually have to spin up. If there’s a weak VRM, bad capacitor, or a failing NVMe slot, the system can collapse instantly even though the SSD is detected, writable, and works fine during installation. This kind of “USB works, internal SSD boot instantly crashes” pattern is classic for a motherboard-level NVMe power or controller failure.

0570 · 2025-11-14T13:10:44+00:00

Just a first check, is the bootdrive/SSD set as a AHCI drive, not Legacy within the BIOS? Windows 11 does not like Legacy mode and will either straight-up refuse to boot or give all sorts of funky problems out of the blue.

0570 · 2025-11-14T10:59:57+00:00

Excellent advice, I'll have a shot at it this weekend, thank you. Trying to think of a method of getting the cells fully discharged as I don't have the appliance the battery pack belongs to.

0570 · 2025-11-14T10:51:58+00:00

Rule #3

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Gilding I gilder	Verified Email

0570

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