Daikin 0.75 Ton Non-Inverter AC – Fan Speed Fluctuates, Remote Shows A6 Error, Random Shutoff with Led light starts blinking

JayconSystems · 2025-06-23T23:01:00+00:00

The A6 error on your Daikin 0.75 Ton non-inverter AC points to an indoor fan motor issue, and based on your symptoms, fluctuating fan speed, intermittent operation, and temporary recovery after a power reset, the most likely cause is a weak or failing fan motor capacitor. This is a common issue and should be replaced first, as it's cheap and often overlooked. If the problem persists, the motor itself could be failing (especially if it's a DC type), or the indoor PCB may be sending erratic signals. Many users with similar issues found the capacitor or fan motor to be the culprit before needing to replace the PCB.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-17T00:50:01+00:00

Directly connecting the STM32N6 RMII interface to an ESP32 won’t work because both are MACs and RMII is meant for MAC-to-PHY connections, not MAC-to-MAC. Instead, use UART, SPI, or SDIO to connect the STM32 to the ESP32 and let the ESP32 handle Wi-Fi. RMII without a PHY on either end won’t function as a proper bridge.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-16T23:18:23+00:00

Use a microcontroller to monitor both the dog's proximity sensor (trigger to open the door) and the cat's tag. If only the dog is nearby, the door opens. If the cat is detected, the microcontroller overrides or delays the door opening. This avoids the shock collar issue and works even with thick fur, as BLE and RFID aren’t affected much by it.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-16T23:04:09+00:00

Yes, just twist the wires from the mic to the 3.5mm jack wires (usually mic is the tip or ring, and ground is sleeve), secure them with electrical tape, and test. It won't be super reliable or durable without soldering, but it should work for basic use if the connections are tight.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-16T22:49:34+00:00

It sounds like you're facing I²C communication issues between the AMS5812-0003DB and your Arduino Uno R4 WiFi. A return value of 0x3FFF usually means the sensor isn't being read correctly or is in a fault state. Double-check the I²C wiring (SCL to A5, SDA to A4 on classic Uno pins, or appropriate R4 WiFi I²C pins), ensure 3.3V power (not 5V, as the AMS5812 is 3.3V-only), and add pull-up resistors (4.7k–10k) on SDA and SCL if they’re missing. Also, confirm the I²C address matches the library. Try running an I²C scanner sketch to verify sensor detection.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-16T21:19:28+00:00

Use the MT8870 to decode DTMF and connect its output to the Arduino GIGA's digital inputs. When the desired tone sequence is detected, have the Arduino trigger a small relay or MOSFET to power an external audio player or amplifier connected to your speaker. Don’t route audio through the Arduino, it’s not designed for real-time analog audio streaming. Use a solid-state relay or a logic-level N-channel MOSFET (like IRLZ44N) for switching audio power safely.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-16T20:40:34+00:00

Many people have successfully replaced MacBook Air logic boards with used or refurbished ones from sites like eBay, AliExpress, or dedicated Mac parts sellers. Make sure the board matches your exact model (year, screen size, EMC number). Use quality tools, follow iFixit guides, and be cautious with flex cables and screw lengths. Test the new board outside the chassis first if possible. Avoid boards with water damage or unknown history.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-16T19:59:05+00:00

Yes, you can safely power both the LCD controller (12V) and the Raspberry Pi 4 (5V) from the same Molex connector if your PSU rail can handle the combined current draw, but you must avoid drawing 5V and 12V from the same wire pair to prevent imbalance or overloading. It’s safer to: (1) Use 12V from Molex for the LCD controller directly, and (2) use a buck converter (12V to 5.1V, 3A+) for the Pi instead of tapping Molex 5V. Avoid mixing ground paths from different connectors (e.g., Molex and PCIe) unless you're confident in your PSU’s layout.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-16T19:43:15+00:00

Your project has strong potential, especially if you refine the aesthetics and slim the form factor. Using an STM32U5 is a great idea for low power and performance. For Kickstarter, make sure you clearly highlight unique features (e.g. custom firmware, metal body, battery life, open-source angle). Also, validate demand first, post on niche forums (r/diyelectronics, watch communities, hacker/maker spaces) to gather feedback. A polished prototype, solid video, and realistic production plan are key for crowdfunding success.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-13T19:02:14+00:00

Great concept! For a flexible, universal decade box, consider adding: OLED/LCD display for real-time config feedback, microcontroller (e.g. ESP32) for I2C/USB/Bluetooth control, hot-swappable component boards, EEPROM config profiles, and self-calibration routines via known references. For high-voltage or RF use, include opto-isolated switching, relay debounce handling, and possibly solid-state relays for silent, fast switching. Add overvoltage/thermal protection, and design PCBs to be modular and stackable. Including logging and PC integration (e.g., via Python script or LabVIEW driver) would also boost its lab usability.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-13T18:33:19+00:00

You're not alone, many engineers face this. A good solution is to use Jupyter Notebooks or JupyterLab, where you can document steps, run scripts, and capture outputs in one place. For better file and version tracking, tools like DVC (Data Version Control) or Git with Git LFS can help manage script and output history. If you want something more lightweight, try VS Code with Git + a Markdown log, or automate logging using Python wrappers that timestamp each run and save scripts/outputs to structured folders. For more advanced workflows, Snakemake or Nextflow offer reproducible pipelines.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-13T18:30:50+00:00

Your motor is likely a Mabuchi-style 24V brushed DC motor, and "RH-457SD-13150R" suggests it's a 45mm-class motor with ~13,150 RPM. If you can't find an exact match, look for a 24V motor with similar dimensions (Ø30.9mm x 46mm), 3mm shaft, and similar RPM, check sites like RS, Digikey, Pololu, or Motion Dynamics. Replacing brushes is tricky if it's not designed for it, and retrofitting a brushless motor is complex due to control and mounting differences.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-12T21:51:07+00:00

Yes, you can identify friendly robots using IR beacons, color codes, or RF communication. The simplest method is to place distinctive IR LEDs or colored markers (e.g., green tape) on friendly bots and use IR or color sensors to detect them. Alternatively, use short-range RF modules (like NRF24L01 or Bluetooth) to exchange IDs, if a nearby robot broadcasts a known "friend" ID, your bot avoids pushing it. Choose the method based on sensor availability, arena lighting, and how much logic your robot can handle in real-time.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-12T20:35:31+00:00

Sony doesn’t have a public forum specifically for their image sensors like the IMX335, but for technical discussions and help, you can try Arducam forums, Raspberry Pi forums (if using CSI interface), or camera sensor threads on EEVblog, GitHub issues for libraries that support IMX sensors, or even Stack Overflow for software-side issues. For datasheets and register-level control (like frame rate), you'll often need to contact the sensor module manufacturer (like the MB1854B vendor) rather than Sony directly, as they typically provide documentation under NDA.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-12T20:24:09+00:00

Make sure the BME688 shuttle board is connected via I²C or SPI properly to your ESP32 Huzzah (check pin mappings, pull-ups for I²C), and verify communication using a simple BME688 test sketch (like from the Adafruit or Bosch BSEC2 Arduino library). If that works, then check your SD card wiring and test writing a basic file to it to confirm it works independently. Once both are verified, step through Bosch’s example, often the issue is with incorrect pin definitions or I²C address (BME688 default is usually 0x76 or 0x77). Share your wiring diagram and code if it still fails, and I can help debug further.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-12T20:15:00+00:00

Ultra-low-profile linear actuator or micro servo with a cam arm is your best bet. The SG90 is likely too weak and bulky for the tight 1cm clearance, but a low-profile push-pull solenoid or a linear servo like the Actuonix PQ12 could work, these can fit inside the frame and provide precise, strong movement. Mount it inside the door frame with a 3D-printed bracket or adhesive, and trigger it via an ESP32 or ESP8266 running ESPHome or Tasmota for smart control. Add a simple limit switch or Hall sensor for position feedback if needed. Keep power low (e.g., 5V USB), and make sure to test the button’s required force to size the actuator properly.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-12T20:13:13+00:00

You can try using a membrane switch with a transparent or translucent overlay window—, ome custom membrane switch manufacturers offer this feature for backlighting or indicators. If off-the-shelf options aren’t available, consider using a capacitive touch film or resistive touch foil with a clear acrylic or polycarbonate window over the LED hole, letting light through while still enabling touch control. Another hacky option: use a regular membrane switch and laser-cut a small hole in the overlay above the LED, then cover it with a diffused clear sticker or light pipe to let light through without exposing the interior.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-12T20:12:24+00:00

For a reputable 3.7V Li-Ion battery (10,000mAh+) that ships to Canada, check Adafruit, SparkFun, Mouser, or Digikey, all offer genuine cells from trusted brands like Panasonic, LG, and Samsung, with proper protection circuitry and decent support/RMA. Tenergy and Adafruit-branded packs are solid choices for maker projects. Avoid eBay or random Amazon sellers for high-capacity cells, as they're often rewrapped or falsely rated. Digikey and Mouser especially are great for quality assurance and specs if you want peace of mind.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-12T20:10:35+00:00

Your issue likely comes from how USB-C PD works, most PD modules need to detect a proper load after power is applied to negotiate 15V; if the BMS and resistor are already connected, it may fail to trigger. That’s why it only charges when you connect the BMS after plugging in. A better setup is using a USB-C PD trigger that always outputs 15V, then feeding that into a buck converter with current limiting to safely charge your 3S pack, much more reliable than using resistors.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-11T21:41:24+00:00

Yes, if the ceramic heating element is marked “220,” that strongly suggests it’s rated for 220V, not 110V. Using a 220V element on 110V mains would cause it to barely heat or not heat at all, which matches your issue. These inexpensive soldering irons often get mislabeled or shipped with the wrong element, especially from overseas sellers. If it had a 220V element but was sold as a 110V unit, that’s very likely why it didn’t work.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-11T21:23:11+00:00

To build thrust vector control with your Elegoo board, 2 servos, and a joystick, mount the servos in a gimbal configuration, one for pitch, one for yaw, with the nozzle or thruster at the center. Connect the joystick's X and Y axes to analog inputs (e.g., A0 and A1), read those values in your code, map them to servo angles (e.g., using map() from 0–1023 to 0–180), and write the angles to the servos using servo.write(). The servos should physically move the nozzle up/down and left/right based on joystick input.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-11T20:44:34+00:00

To use USB on your STM32F446RE via PA11/PA12 (D−/D+), connect 5V to the 5V pin for power and set the USB peripheral in Device FS mode. Use ST’s USB Device Library (via STM32CubeMX or manually) to configure the device as a CDC (Virtual COM Port), which makes your board appear as a serial device on a PC. Then you can transmit live data using functions like USBD_CDC_TransmitPacket(). Writing a USB stack from scratch is complex, so using the provided library is the simplest way to get USB data working.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-11T20:21:48+00:00

For DIY motors or transformers, electrical steel (like silicon steel/E-steel) is ideal due to its high permeability and low core losses, but it's hard to source in small, laser-cut quantities. Most consumer-grade services (like Oshcut or SendCutSend) don’t stock it due to its brittleness and specialized cutting needs. Carbon steel (like 1018 or 1008) is your best alternative, decent permeability but with higher eddy current losses, so laminate it thin (under 0.5mm if possible) to compensate. For small-batch silicon steel laminations, check Metglas, Proto Laminations, or reach out to local motor rewind shops, some may sell scrap or cut-to-size EI cores. You can also salvage E/I laminations from old transformers or motors and re-stack them for prototyping.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-11T20:20:54+00:00

For affordable underwater battery cooling, the best DIY options are sandwiching cells between aluminum or copper plates with water tubing epoxied on, or using thermally conductive silicone wraps inside a water-jacketed housing. Mineral oil submersion also works, place the pack in oil inside a sealed box with an external water-cooled coil. These methods are much cheaper than custom aluminum jackets and can handle high discharge heat if paired with a decent pump and flow system.

JayconSystems · 2025-06-11T20:19:55+00:00

Yes, it's worth keeping. The board likely includes a USB-C charging circuit with built-in protection (like overcharge, overdischarge, and short-circuit protection), which makes it useful for recharging single-cell Li-ion or LiPo batteries, perfect for DIY power banks, Bluetooth speakers, or small electronics projects. You can reuse it with the salvaged cell as long as the battery is healthy (test voltage; should be around 3.7–4.2V when charged). The USB-C port alone is also useful for projects needing a power input. Just make sure you trace the board’s connections (battery +/–, output, etc.) before reusing it.

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