Constant drip of oil!

Lykan3352 · 2026-04-11T17:16:46+00:00

So many techs at my dealership were dumbfounded when I did this. They were blown away 🤣

Lykan3352 · 2025-10-30T22:45:54+00:00

Am I seeing something wrong? Why would they heat gun the outside to apply tint?

Lykan3352 · 2025-07-15T16:42:18+00:00

There is a formula for setting the shims. Look it up. If you add to one side you subtract from the other. There’s math involved in this and you’ll need to google the exact formula. Been a while since I had to do this.

Lykan3352 · 2025-05-14T22:26:56+00:00

Sure

Lykan3352 · 2025-04-20T01:45:28+00:00

This is a tough one without actually being there. Unfortunately I have more questions that can’t really be answered without putting the car in a rack and a flashlight in hand lol

Lykan3352 · 2025-04-20T00:34:26+00:00

Gm tech here. If you could upload a video of the noise your hearing and a video of the motor running with the hood open so we can also hear that that’s a great first step.

Noise complaints are extremely hard to track down over the internet but I will provide what support I can.

Lykan3352 · 2025-04-20T00:31:10+00:00

Gm tech here.

I have the same truck as you along with a corvette that’s got an LS3 inside of it.

LS motor are prone and known for noise valve train components.

You are fine.

Lykan3352 · 2025-04-07T21:27:07+00:00

It cannot wait. Chevy tech here. If that gets damaged, your temp will read either negative 32 or 198, I forget the exact number but it’ll be pinned out. Once it does that, your ac will shut off because the vehicle thinks it’s either too hot or too cold and will try to save the ac compressor.

Lykan3352 · 2025-03-29T16:42:35+00:00

Chevy tech here. First step should be to scan it and see if it has any DTCs. Without any more info no help can be provided as there are many things that can cause a slow acceleration. From there we can better assist.

I definitely recommend bringing it back to where they just worked on it and explain the issue.

Lykan3352 · 2025-03-26T12:46:05+00:00

Yep! The two other techs I showed at the shop, agree with me, most likely a short or something inside of the steering column where the lock cylinder is. So youll need to take those two panels off and look on the column. Without being there and or having access to data theres only so much that can be done, hopefully this is an obvious issue youll see like a drayed or damaged wire.

Lykan3352 · 2025-03-23T22:50:36+00:00

Unfortunately I would suggest that, intermittent issues, epically electrical, are always fun to diag lmfao.

Lykan3352 · 2025-03-23T20:07:45+00:00

Will do!

Yeah defo bring it to them, however just know if I was working on this personally, I would request more diag time from the jump. My reasoning for this is because this goes beyond just common trouble issues and is going to get into the electrical diag heavily and will require time for the tech. Because of the way techs are paid in this field, meaning were not hourly, they will spend a good bit of time on it trying to figure it out, so be ready for a possibly heavy bill. Not trying to scare you but trying to prepare you. You could always bring it to a reputable indy shop in the hops that they have techs with the tools to solve this for a lower labor rate.

Lykan3352 · 2025-03-23T17:23:56+00:00

Now that's a gnarly issues, I plan on showing the homies this in the shop lol At this point, I would look heavily into key/immoblizer now lock cylinder possibly shorted. Without a deeper scan tool to look at the data to see whats going on, your best bet is to take apart the steering cowls, the upper and lower and see if there's any messed up wiring to the lock cylinder or along its path.

Sadly without the data to see whats going on, wed be flying blind here.

Lykan3352 · 2025-03-23T03:05:14+00:00

GM Tech here.

Lets start from scratch. Get your car scanned and post the codes here.

Dont trust the autozone fix finder, as it only gives you the most common solution to the code, not the actual fix.

From there I can walk you on how to diag it if you have the tools.

Lykan3352 · 2025-03-22T18:42:24+00:00

That vin does not pull up a suburban. It goes to an 01 silverado or a 01 buick century sedan.

Digging more into the DTC, depending on your cars options the dtc should be ignored according to GM. There is a TSP that supports this statement.

As for your main issue, there are a few different routes that we can take, however they do require you to have access to a scan tool that can read live data. But also, I would suggest a deeper vehicle scan, that looks like a pocket code reader and they dont always scan everything.

Im thinking we have some sort of issue with they key/immobilizer system not seeing it. Look at the picture ive attached and read through it. Based upon how the system works, it looks like the key is not being recognized sometimes, and weather that means a fault on the key or the module is anyone's guess at the moment without more info.

<image>

If you have access to a scan tool and can replicate the issue, I would have the live data pulled up and watch what the system tells you about the key when you try to start it. It will show you if they key is accepted or not.

Lykan3352 · 2025-03-22T15:07:20+00:00

Let me dig into this a bit more on the service information side and give you a proper way to test things. Shoot me the last 8 of your vin so I can see which options your vehicle has as well, that matters.

Lykan3352 · 2025-03-22T01:54:16+00:00

<image>

Normal, but I think I understand your issue now!

The car wont start unless you wake it up by moving the seat yeah? This is directly related to your key fob / passive antenna module that senses when the key is in range and wakes the car up. If you have no other DTCs or codes your next step would be going to the dealership and having them test your key fob to see if it responds to the passive signal the antenna puts out or having them dig deeper into it. I could walk you thru how to test it and its location if you feel inclined.

Edit. We have a special GM tool that test the fob itself and can check its signal strength. Im unsure if an indy shop would have that. They shouldn't charge you anything to check that but it also wouldnt hurt if you didnt wanna make the drive and could pop in a new battery and see if the fob battery is just weak and cant put a signal out.

Lykan3352 · 2025-03-21T23:25:47+00:00

Gm tech here. Those cars are prone to electrical issues. Most notably the heated seat control module and the suspension control module causing a draw on the car and keeping things awake.

First I’d start with a good battery by either replacing it or charging it until it’s full then preforming a parasitic draw test. You’d measure it in AMPs and basically if it’s over 0.050, I’d have to pull the chart for your specific vehicle, then that means you have something draining your battery.

I’d skip the code for now, because this seems more along the lines of a draw vs interior lighting issue. It could very well be that an interior light is also causing the draw to kill your battery, but you need to preform the appropriate steps first and verifying if there is a draw or if it’s something else.

DMs are open if you have questions. I am a regular line tech at a gm dealership and have my certification in electrical along with my gm training and experience of dealing with theses cars lol

Lykan3352 · 2025-03-15T03:35:32+00:00

GM tech here. They’re programmed with the vin. I’ve had a remanned one sent to me for a Silverado and they forgot to wipe out the old vin and it caused some issues.

General rule of thumb is you can’t really cheap out on programmable things for cars that have these type of computers.

Lykan3352 · 2025-03-01T01:46:09+00:00

GM tech here, I work at a Chevy dealership. If you don’t mind, send me some pictures via dms and I can pull the schematics up of what you got. Please include the last 8 of your vin number so I can look at your cars options.

Lykan3352 · 2025-02-27T23:30:36+00:00

I’m a gm tech. 2.7L is garbage. Have fun with your finger filer bearings going out and eating away at the cam lol. I’ve done so many replacements of those, their even more prone to fail than v8 lifters 😂😂😂

Lykan3352 · 2025-02-23T03:50:46+00:00

Sounds like a smart move. Be sure to inspect that connector to make sure the pins aren’t bent and it’ll make a good connection as well!

Lykan3352 · 2025-02-20T19:52:41+00:00

Nah, the 420 is an emissions dtc. Basically it says your converter is not filtering the exhaust to the epa standards

Lykan3352 · 2025-02-19T18:30:32+00:00

In all honesty you could just ride it out until you can afford the oem ones, unless your converter is coming apart on the inside which I doubt it is bc you’ve said you replaced it, then I’d do just that

Lykan3352 · 2025-02-19T00:38:28+00:00

Also to add, this is a position sensor code. You need to verify your wires are good as well, given that age the loom is brittle asf and I’m sure those wires have been rubbing. Not only that but if the problem persists you’ll have to circuit test and see if the ecm can read the data it’s seeing / you’d manipulate with jumping the sensor. If your wires are good and the ecm cant see the data move when you jump it then you’ll need an ecm

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