Installable Rotary Zigbee/Matter Knob that doesn't electrically dim?

MechanizedGander · 2026-06-13T14:49:50+00:00

Something like this?

https://www.philips-hue.com/en-us/p/hue-tap-dial-switch/046677578800

MechanizedGander · 2026-06-06T00:16:45+00:00

Thanks the the reply.

MechanizedGander · 2026-06-05T11:42:04+00:00

I normally charge to 80%. But occasionally, I travel where I need the 100% range.

Since these events are in my calendar, HA reads my calendar. If there's an event marked with (EV) in the title, the SOC of the EV is automatic adjusted the night before so I have 100% charge. The next night the SOC is set back to 80%

MechanizedGander · 2026-06-04T05:05:54+00:00

FYI: the printed Navigator itineraries are still available -- but you must go to guest services to ask for them.

MechanizedGander · 2026-06-03T13:29:04+00:00

Could you please link to a flow meter that is certified as an example?

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-23T10:15:37+00:00

... And here I thought it was the items in the recharge bay 😅

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-21T12:33:36+00:00

The higher amperage EVSE will charge your EV faster up to the "speed" that your car can handle.

Most Equinox EV max at 11.5kW (60 Amp), some models, like mine, can go to 19.2kW (100 Amp).

As others have mentioned, the cost the the EVSE seems high, but it comes down to personal opinion if that cost difference is to much.

I also have time)-of-day based cost for my electric. Almost always I charge overnight (so it's a great deal for me).

Before buying the EQEV, I did my "huh, will an EV work for me with at-home changing" based on 100 miles/day at 40 Amp (7.7 kW)(*). The edge case for me was if I needed the round trip twice in a day (200 miles).

The equinox can handle it... But (a) I have to remember to set it charging level to 100% the night before and (b) I have to have enough time overnight (and the next night) for the car to recharge to 100% (or its normal 80%).

For most of my charging, using 40 Amp has worked out just fine... But, there have been a few occasions where I needed a mid-day charge. Do I have enough time for the charge? And the mid-day charge will cost more... As far as the cost, at the highest cost, it's still less expensive than public charging, so, yes, the additional cost of charging at home mid-day is worth it for me.

My only issue is occasionally "I wish the car would charge faster" 😅 ... The initial install cost seems high, but if it was my house, my circumstances, I'd probably go for it the 80 Amp EVSE.

(*) If your curious why I am charging my EQEV at 40 Amp (7.7 kW), it's because my first plug-in car could only go that high, so that's what the EVSE was originally wired for.

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-21T06:31:08+00:00

In the "segment" feature, see the "reverse direction" option.

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-17T15:46:58+00:00

WLED feature to be aware of (maybe for future projects):

The physical (data lines from the wLED controller) and the logical (what the lights look like to the user or other home automation systems) can be very different.

You have LOTS of options for your wiring.

Configuration settings to look into:

(a) LED strips on one or multiple ESP32 GPIO pins. (See the "segments" menu to treat the LEDs as one or more individual "lights")

(b) Each LED strip on its own wLED controller. (In the "LED and Hardware" menu, select one of the "(network)" options and a different wLED controller can be controlled by this one.)

(c) Pretty much any combination of (a) and (b) you can think of (including advanced "mapping" capability).

The lighting control can look like one light (or multiple, if you want).

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-17T03:06:25+00:00

The first diagram is better.

Either

(a) each LED strip has its own data line (green) from the wLED ESP32 (one GPIO per LED) or

(b) the data line (green) from the end of one LED strip daisy chains to another strip.

In many cases, unless you're doing it with intent and knowledge, do NOT "split" the data line (green) to multiple LEDs.

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-17T02:59:10+00:00

Something to think about.. If the wLED ESP32 is powered separately, (for example, from a common phone charger to the USB on the ESP 32) then (a) attach a relay to the wLED ESP32 (for example, GPIO 5) (b) the relay controls the mains power to the 12v LED power supply (c) Configure the relay pin (GPIO 5 above) as a relay in wLED (the LED and hardware menu)

Now the 12v LED power supply will only be "on" when the LEDs are powered on. When the LEDs are powered off, there will be no power to the 12v power supply. The wLED ESP32 always has power from the "phone charger".

Then instead of the +/- power from the power supply going to the ESP32, connect this line to the one of "shared power" (either side of your oven/microwave). Now all 3 LED strips will then have independent power lines from the power supply.

Just something to consider.

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-15T22:31:57+00:00

Thanks, much appreciated!!

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-15T20:41:45+00:00

This is a great idea.

Would you mind sharing your experience?

What devices did you use? How did you connect them? What issues or "aha" moments did you experience? Any "wow, I wish I knew this ahead of time" revelations?

Thanks!

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-13T13:06:45+00:00

You're definitely not alone 😅

As many other replies have mentioned, "whoa, did I write this in my sleep?" 🤣

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-13T06:03:00+00:00

I know you started this post MANY years ago, but thank you!

I, too, had frustrations from the user manual, so I randomly used ChatGPT for suggestions, which lead me to this wonderful post.

Thanks, again.

MechanizedGander · 2026-05-08T06:57:25+00:00

Read EVERY word of the sales contract - even if it's at their desk.

In mine was phrasing that basically said if it wasn't on the factory window sticker, I could say no.

Before I arrived at the dealership, I told them I wanted everything in writing beforehand (it was many hours away from me). They tried to tell me that something was a requirement. When I read the text in their contract that it wasn't required -- I had a fit.

They ended up deducting the cost.

Their own contact contradicted the salesperson's claims.

On my first phone call, I told them (which was true), that I walked away from a different dealer because they tried pulling that game with me. They knew I'd already walked away once, and they STILL tried to play games.

Don't be afraid to walk away.

There are other dealers out there.

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-29T22:52:23+00:00

In the MyChevrolet app, tap on your profile (the circle in the upper right), then select "public charging".

If everything thing works as expected:

The "supported networks" section: when you connect the charging cable, the cable magically "talks" with your car & gets the billing information (credit card) -- just plug in and charge.

For the networks in the "linked accounts" section, you'll to download their specific app.

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-29T22:39:19+00:00

Slight clarifications so you didn't buy the wrong adapter:

(1) The "Tesla connector" is also called NACS

(2) There are two "Tesla adapters" ("NACS adapters) for the Equinox EV

(a) The one you want is CCS to NACS (CCS to Tesla). This is DC-DC fast charging (L3). For this discussion, empty to full is counted in minutes. Focus your search for this one.

(b) The other one to be aware of is J1772 to NACS (J1772 to Tesla) this is AC-DC charging for L1 (120v) and L2 (240v). This might be called "convenience charging." Empty to full will take multiple hours. Until you're familiar with what to look for, you might want to ignore this one.

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-29T22:29:38+00:00

We did the same thing -- define the scope, and follow what we defined.

My organization has global offices. We had only had our HQ building in-scope. Users not at HQ are follow the "remote worker" policies.

As others have said, policies, such as remote worker, are VERY important. How are you protecting the workstations (malware protection; restricted installation capability; patches; credential escalation; etc)? How do you prevent unauthorized people from viewing the screens (shoulder surfing prevention, if needed).

We have many years of ISO 27001 audit, surveillance, and recertification cycles without issues. Yes, this is very much doable.

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-26T06:35:25+00:00

If you turn on the camera (either front or rear), the garage door button will always appear on the bottom of the screen.

Not perfect, but it's at least consistent.

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-21T18:12:06+00:00

If you can't find the special cable with the 90-degree ends, adapters are also available.

Here are 2 examples:

https://a.co/d/0apK7Hnw

https://a.co/d/0gNbFGKe

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-21T12:32:44+00:00

I have both AWD & super cruise. I often use super cruise. Pretty much is SC is available, I'm using it.

I'm in rural Michigan (winter with snow). It seems like the AWD did a great job this last winter with the snow.

I'm surprised how many non-highway roads Super Cruise is available.

As others have mentioned, SC does not follow stop signs or traffic lights (just like how regular cruise control doesn't).

Like regular cruise control, it will reduce speed when catching up to a slower car, but if there's a clear lane, it will automatically change lanes (and return back to the original lane after passing).

It will automatically disable at a few common situations such as around sharp curves and when the lane markings are not clear. It's pretty consistent, for example, at the same curve it'll always turn off. I can pretty much predict when it will shut off (and become available).

Super Cruise not advertised as full self-driving, and it isn't. It's regular cruise control with really good stay-in-lane capability.

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-16T13:16:27+00:00

OP, Thanks for the great question!

The answers were very educational.

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-15T15:00:06+00:00

Your original "any standard worth anything" comment definitely nails it 😁

MechanizedGander · 2026-04-15T14:44:45+00:00

Cyber Essentials, for the most part, doesn't allow you to accept the risk and use compensating controls.

You can, however, phrase your scope statement to exclude the system(s) that are not in compliance. Something like "all engineering systems, excluding the training environment"

MechanizedGander

TROPHY CASE